free advice on the 83-87 telstar - Page 3

telstar85AS · 05-08-2006, 05:58 PM

thought i had a problem but all is good now.

89 S-PACK · 11-08-2006, 10:33 PM

ive just recently bought a 86 telstar sedan... manual of course

i took it in for rwc and theres a few things ive gotta replace
outer cv boots
all the brake line hoses
and the right front control arm bushes

th ething is i dont have an gregorys workshop manual yet.. and i need the tensionwrench settings for -
- the nuts on the end of the cv joints( the ones that bolt to the wheel hub )
- and the lower control arm bush bolts

some places ive spoken to have just told me to do them up tight but i want to do it properly and by the factory settings

dirty hands · 12-08-2006, 07:45 AM

the nuts on the end of the cv joints( the ones that bolt to the wheel hub )
front hub nut is 240 nm
the nut should only be used once if you see a groove on the stub axle
you use a screwdriver and hit the nut into that groove after tension to lock the nut in place
or it may just be a spring washer and split pin castellated nut type

the lower control arm bush bolts (no listing for bush bolts)
Suspension unit /control arm
if the bolts a thick then use 119 nm if smaller use 30 nm

other torque setting for that area
Control arm inner mounting nuts 119 nm
Suspension unit to steering knuckle 119 nm
Suspension unit to body 30 nm
Ball joint nut 55 nm
Tie rod end nut 45 nm

89 S-PACK · 14-08-2006, 01:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dirty hands

the nuts on the end of the cv joints( the ones that bolt to the wheel hub )
front hub nut is 240 nm
the nut should only be used once if you see a groove on the stub axle
you use a screwdriver and hit the nut into that groove after tension to lock the nut in place
or it may just be a spring washer and split pin castellated nut type

the lower control arm bush bolts (no listing for bush bolts)
Suspension unit /control arm
if the bolts a thick then use 119 nm if smaller use 30 nm

other torque setting for that area
Control arm inner mounting nuts 119 nm
Suspension unit to steering knuckle 119 nm
Suspension unit to body 30 nm
Ball joint nut 55 nm
Tie rod end nut 45 nm

thanks for your help... now ive just gotta put it all back together on monday afternoon

but how many litres of trans fluid does the 4spd manual gearbox hold???
2 litres came out but theres been evidence mines been leaking around the speedo drive

meanbow · 14-08-2006, 09:03 AM

Hi there all...i'm in need of assistance in the removal of the front headlamps on my '83 telstar

i need to get the units out to change the headlamp bulbs, as i think mine are blown, as i have no high beams....yet my Driving lamps are still working when i engage high beams or flasher. i've already tested the circuits, and there is current going to all the right places...yet do you think i can get the stupid bulbs out to check them?? :jab:
one one side...i have the aircon pipes and washer/expansion tanks, on the other, the battery. so as far as i can tell...you need to take the units out to change the bulbs.
even the manual i got for the equivelant Mazda 626 mentions removing the headlamps, yet i can't really see how they come out in the first place

any advice/help would be apreciated, as the car is going in for an M.O.T in a few weeks

dirty hands · 14-08-2006, 09:04 AM

Automatic transmission information

ATF type F --- full service 5.7 litres
warm up the engine cycle through the gears put the car in park check oil level
should be between L and F
leak should be fixed
look for other leaks at the oil pump,vaccum modulator and drive shaft seals
oil pan bolts 8 nm
no sump nut setting nm (not over tight its only aluminiuim)

dirty hands · 14-08-2006, 09:16 AM

[QUOTE=meanbow]Hi there all...i'm in need of assistance in the removal of the front headlamps on my '83 telstar

the manual assumes you have already removed or got the extras out of the way
so yes you are correct
washer/expansion tanks, on the other, the battery. so as far as i can tell...you need to take the units out to change the bulbs

do the bulbs first before going to all the trouble of removing the lamps etc

dont touch the surface of the headlight bulb --the finger print left blows the bulb within days (dont ask me why )

I came across a quirk the rubber boot sometimes pulls out the wire connection to the headlight bulb on its own I was driving a long and I thought the bulb had blown and it was the wire connector coming off the bulb all the time so I took the boot off for a while and no problem

so you have the mounting brackets and undo the securing nuts and the manual says to remove the head lamp and turn signal as one unit

meanbow · 14-08-2006, 09:22 AM

: without sounding sanppy or ungrateful...but HOW do i get them out?
i can't see any obvious nuts/bolts, apart from the headlamp adjustment screw on each unit.
it's been driving me nuts all day

dirty hands · 14-08-2006, 09:33 PM

does this help ? this is in a suppliment I have
step 4 the plastic stuff around the light has to be undone to get the lamp right out

dirty hands · 14-08-2006, 10:46 PM

it is not an easy job
you see the bracket at the end of the light ,there are two of those each side ....
I hope you can see the screws

and I did break the plastic surrounds to get the headlights out the screws had rusted

meanbow · 15-08-2006, 07:03 AM

thanks for that, dirty hands.
i managed to get the units out and replaced the bulbs, now i have lights again!
you are great :Reverend:

while i had them out, i replaced and upgraded the bulbs to crystal ultra blue's...what a difference in the dark they make

dirty hands · 15-08-2006, 09:45 AM

manual transmission sae 80 /w 90 Capacity full service 3.4 litres
fuel tank 60 ltres
brakes dot 3
cooling system 7 litres

engine oil with filter 3.9 litres
engine oil without 3.6 litres

dirty hands · 25-08-2006, 03:26 AM

if anyone has suggestions as to what other helpfull information should be in this section please let me know

GRNKPR · 25-08-2006, 03:42 AM

Sell It

dirty hands · 25-08-2006, 06:29 AM

mmmm after 1,172 posts you have made that is your best advice
ok I will keep that in mind :eclipsee_

GRNKPR · 29-08-2006, 12:03 AM

now i have more posts its still the same advice aaaaarrrrrgggggghhhhhhhhhh im a pirate

meanbow · 04-09-2006, 05:17 AM

Hi again...just a quickie this time
what is the recommended maximum mileage for a timing cambelt on the '83 Telstar as mine is now pushing 73,000 and to my knowledge it hasn't been done.
i basically need to know how long it can go at a MAX on the current belts, as i have to save a bit of cash to pay a mechanic to do the job first

and no sarky comments about changing the car instead please...

:

dirty hands · 04-09-2006, 07:06 AM

50,000 km
I made 2 posts on how to do a timing belt -- page one
near the bottom the picture is a shocker

the timing /belt pully has to come off and you work through the wheel arch

I have done it myself but you have to mark the top cam sprocket and not move the engine you can be one knotch out due to the new belt
also check the water pump
I think there is an allen key for the tensioner but I didnt need it
I just slipped the new belt on ---
the timing pully just slipped off after i undid the nut (you might be lucky )
Holla if you need more information :1syellow1

dirty hands · 16-09-2006, 01:54 AM

I dont know a heap about the turbo versions

:
these two sites might help

:

http://www.mx6.com /forums

http://z3.invisionfree.com/tx5/index.php?

meanbow · 07-10-2006, 12:34 AM

Hey all...again
this is a major question on the dashboard of the early Telstar...i thought i had the dash problem licked on my model, but all of a sudden...it's started back up again with the intermittent working nonsense.

does anyone know if the dashboards between the models fitted with a digital and an analougue are interchangeable..i.e are all the connections the same?

from a book i managed to get hold of for an equivelant model Mazda 626,a talk to the local Mazda dealer and from a limited knowledge of stripping the damn thing down countless times....it seems very similar to me

just a yes or no will do, thanks

:

dirty hands · 07-10-2006, 08:00 AM

check if the digital uses a speedo cable or a sensor at the gearbox
no other info in fittment

meanbow · 07-10-2006, 09:27 AM

i can tell you from experience...it's a speedo cable, not a sensor

dirty hands · 07-10-2006, 06:14 PM

two attachments it is all I have

rammed wx · 17-10-2006, 07:00 PM

i have a kc laer with a blown head gasket.
if i pull off the head and get it machined and a new gasket.
is it difficult to put back on?
is there any special tools etc.
just wondering, because the mechanic is trying to charge me $800.
thanks

dirty hands · 17-10-2006, 10:00 PM

a laser question is best answered by the laser guru "vippin" pm him
$800 is about right allowing for head work like welding valve seats a head reface
$400 for head and gaskets and 3 hours labour

special tools- torque wrench, metric sockets ,and a repair manual to know how to get the timing belt right .

GRNKPR · 18-10-2006, 05:58 PM

2 months ago i said sell it and your still going aaaaaarrrrrghhhhhhhhhh im still a pirate

meanbow · 19-10-2006, 08:50 PM

and out of all those bits you have listed, how many of them have YOU fitted or worked on....? :dr_Evil:
aaaarrrrrrrggggggggghhhhh!

4:

AutoTX5 · 29-10-2006, 08:54 PM

I have a Ford Telstra TX5 1989 (sorry it is not an '87) with electronically controlled automatic transmission (EC-AT) (G4A-EL).

The problem is there seems to be unnecssary kick down of the auto, possibly into a lower gear or a slip. This seems to happen regulary during city/suburban driving where there are speed humps and other traffic.

So it seems like that the accelerator is sensitive to slight movements of the foot, and causes the kick down and the revs to go up.

I have tried adjusting the pressure control cable for the auto but a guage is required to check the line pressure accurately.

There is also a Hold button on the auto selector so that the auto stays in the selected gear. This helps but it means you must change the gears manually.

dirty hands · 29-10-2006, 10:51 PM

there is a kickdown band adjustment that can be done at any automatic workshop (someone who knows fords )
and a service oil change and filter would be a good idea

the transmission control tcu or ecu or the icu unit may be faulty
undo the battery teminals for 10 minites this may reset your computers

if nothing changes you may need a diagnostic of those units

wont be a line pressure problem as you have all the gears

AutoTX5 · 01-11-2006, 09:39 PM

Thanks for the info. Here is some feedback:

I recently changed the Auto oil & filter. A bugger of a job as I had to undo the engine mounts so that I could get enough room to remove the oil pan so I could change the filter. The maunual says you only need a lever to raise the engine???

I also tried to adjust the band (** is this the one your talking about? **) while the pan was out, to the spec of 11 Nm, but it was too hard to undo the lock nut, so I left it. Spewing about this!!!

I have also removed the control unit a while a go so I could put some LED's on the gear change leads that go to auto, but could not make sense of the LED indications. So the battery was disconnected for a long time anyway. A big long reset.

Any other advice I can use as a do it yourselfer or questions I should ask an Auto specialist to make sure they know enough about this type of auto before they dive into it?