What problems have you had with your Mondeo? - Page 9

Sam123 · 17-10-2017, 02:28 PM

Hi I have 2010 diesel turbo mondeo. There's 2 issues, first is when I accelerate the car hesitates for abit then it accelerates. Other times, rev will be high but doesn't feel much acceleration.

Second issue is, there's a small round shaped sensor on right side of the engine looking from the front of the car (oil drip found on this sensor). I tried to take photo but air cleaner hoses are blocking the view. This sensor has 2 allan key bolts and sits right below the black component (vaccuum pump?)

I hope someone had similar issue with their mondeo and could help me how to resolve this issue

stefcio007 · 17-10-2017, 02:35 PM

1. Acceleration hesitation sounds like turbo lag.
2. Diesel engines aren't designed to rev high. For example my DW10C engine the power curve drops off after 3.5k-4k rpm so no point revving past 4k rpm because I won't get any more power out.

If you don't want to experience this lag then a powerful petrol (NA) engine is the way to go, you will also be able to rev higher.

cobrin · 17-10-2017, 07:24 PM

1. Probably a combination of and or turbo lag and torque protection to protect to trans in the first couple of gears which is a normal functioning system. There were talk of it in another thread, the characteristic of it that is.

2. No idea without more info pics sorry.

gsd112 · 17-10-2017, 10:37 PM

My 17 MD company mondeo has just had its second steering wheel replaced due to the fake leather peeling off. Also the drivers door trim where I rest my arm has worn out all by 50,000kms. Two other cars at work one 15,000kms and another 7,000kms both door trims are showing wear and one is also on his second steering wheel. Really poor longevity from the interior. My FGG6ET with 120,000kms door trim is like new and still on the original steering wheel with no signs of wear. Would never buy one and next company car will be a Passat.

cobrin · 18-10-2017, 01:20 AM

cars used commercially typically get more use/abuse. OTOH folks 2015 MD Ti is as new like your G6E.

gsd112 · 18-10-2017, 05:52 PM

Spoke to the dealer and he said its a regular issue especially with the doors even he said really poor quality . Mate my car is treated like my own as per the G6ET. Poor quality. Our company cars are checked monthly to ensure they are regularly washed etc .

manchu · 19-10-2017, 01:51 PM

I've got a problem with the rubber seals at bottom of door sill. Probably from kids stepping on them as they're getting in and out of the car. The rubber itself seems ok, but the little fasteners that clip to the body are breaking.

I've ordered a pack of 20 new clips from ebay for a whopping $1, so hopefully a cheap and easy fix.

NX74205 · 19-10-2017, 03:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cobrin

cars used commercially typically get more use/abuse. OTOH folks 2015 MD Ti is as new like your G6E.

No wear on the steering wheel or door trim in my 2016 MD either, after 21,000km.

R12RT · 19-10-2017, 04:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NX74205

No wear on the steering wheel or door trim in my 2016 MD either, after 21,000km.

Mine is all good after 35000kms.

bundybear75 · 19-10-2017, 04:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by manchu

I've got a problem with the rubber seals at bottom of door sill. Probably from kids stepping on them as they're getting in and out of the car. The rubber itself seems ok, but the little fasteners that clip to the body are breaking.

I've ordered a pack of 20 new clips from ebay for a whopping $1, so hopefully a cheap and easy fix.

I have the same problem. The strip on the passenger side has "mysteriously" disappeared - I'd say the kids kicked it off and didn't pick it up

rondeo · 21-10-2017, 03:24 PM

Problems with our two TDCIs in about 170,000 km country k's each were:

1. Vacuum turbo boost control solenoid. Both cars failed and replaced. Warning sign was buzzing after engine stop, plus code and limp mode. Cost: ~$100 for part, easy to change.

2. Battery boiling over. Replaced with Delco brand, no further problems.

3. Oil leak between HP fuel pump and cylinder head. Manifests as oil dripping off inlet metering valve, just below fuel pump. Replaced gasket but still leaks. Use locktite gasket sealer next time. There is a line in the casting...
I used the same fuel lines despite warning in Ford manual to renew, no fuel leaks, so far.

4. Various OBD error messages which seem to be
'glitches', once only.

5. FORD technical services could not help with a simple question about battery management system reset. They told me they 'asked a dealer'. WTF?

Resale value seems wrong on these cars. For example $13000 for a 2012 car with low kms costing over $40000 new seen at dealer. Maybe 'Powershift' doesn't inspire confidence?

loop · 23-10-2017, 11:21 AM

Current (hehe) issue with my 2009 MA TDCi is that something is pulling a constant 3-4 Amps with the vehicle turned off. Killed two batteries this year. I really need to take a day to go through pulling fuses and seeing where the culprit could be.

rondeo · 23-10-2017, 06:23 PM

3 or 4 amps is quite a lot isn't it?

cyclone1410 · 03-11-2017, 07:45 PM

My lovely Zetec EcoBoost has decided to start using an absolute shipload of fuel today. Got it home and checked the oil. Smells of fuel and the level is a third of the way up the dipstick. RACQ are picking it up tomorrow morning on a flatbed to take it to the Ford Dealer. Thankfully I chose the factory Ford extended warranty when I bought it.

Any ideas what it might be? Instantaneous fuel readout was all over the place which gave me the clue in the first place.

aupirate · 14-11-2017, 02:12 PM

Current problems on MC 2011 diesel wagon are:
1. When turning ignition key on hazard lights come on and tail gate unlocks, only happens intermittently, usually 1st thing in the morning.
2. Engine malfunction light comes on occasionally for no apparent reason. Engine sometimes but not always goes into limp mode.
Any ideas or similar experiences would be valued especially before I take it to Ford and lose my shirt.

whitelion65 · 14-11-2017, 03:19 PM

aupirate,
how old is the battery? Slight drop in voltage does some "funny" things, which aint that funny!!

aupirate · 14-11-2017, 03:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whitelion65

aupirate,
how old is the battery? Slight drop in voltage does some "funny" things, which aint that funny!!

Battery is just on a year old, so don`t think its an issue, I`m dumbfounded by the tail gate unlocking and hazard lights intermittently coming on when ignition is operated. Feels like there is a little man that thinks up new software issues every day. Other than that I really like this car, its size, price, fuel efficiency and handling for a wagon are pretty good.

Ansimp · 14-11-2017, 03:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aupirate

Battery is just on a year old, so don`t think its an issue, I`m dumbfounded by the tail gate unlocking and hazard lights intermittently coming on when ignition is operated. Feels like there is a little man that thinks up new software issues every day. Other than that I really like this car, its size, price, fuel efficiency and handling for a wagon are pretty good.

Make sure that the battery is the right capacity as it does sound like incorrect voltage due to faulty battery.

rondeo · 15-11-2017, 10:56 AM

"2. Engine malfunction light comes on occasionally for no apparent reason. Engine sometimes but not always goes into limp mode.
Any ideas or similar experiences would be valued especially before I take it to Ford and lose my shirt."

First thing to do with engine issues is get sorted with Forscan. Help available on this forum.

Either windows laptop with cable or bluetooth or android phone with bluetooth adapter.

I have a bluetooth adapter permanently plugged in the car.
I can connect with the phone anytime.

If you have engine malfunction message you will almost certainly have a diagnostic code.

Sam123 · 15-11-2017, 05:47 PM

Mondeo TDCI 2.0 wagon year 2010
Questions:

1. Turbo wastegate by default open or close? Engine off or idle, will the open/close position change?

2. Boost solenoid - 2 plugs (vacuum and outlet) when should the vacuum be in outlet pipe? In idle, should there be vacuum present in outlet and as soon as put foot down on throttle should the vacuum come to an stopped? Or should there be no vacuum in idle but when throttled up, there should be vacuum in outlet pipe?

3. Boost hose - The skinny one from turbo compressor to actuator to boost solenoid. (T hose) should there be any pressure coming out from solenoid end if rev engine to 3000 - 4000rpm?

My issue is I'm trying to solve turbo boost problem on my Mondeo, when I bought the car, it had ALOT of boost could feel it goes on a red light. Recently, I feel turbo boost then jerks for abit then trying to boost again. At times it also changes gear while it is trying to boost. For eg, if it is boosting in 2nd gear it quickly changes to 3rd gear (no the rpm is still way under red sign, maybe 3000rpm or 3500rpm). (Auto gearbox)
Any help/ suggestions will be highly be appreciated.

cobrin · 16-11-2017, 02:23 PM

1. closed by default be it engine off or at idle, it's not making boost in that scenario.

2. when should vacuum be in Outlet Pipe?!? not following you. It's a diesel there's no throttle plate so no vacuum (as can be said) you're burning the controlled amount of diesel being injected and that's it. Boost is electronically controlled by the Turbos VNT vanes, those vanes direct flow to hit the turbine blades variably giving linear power curves and improving performance across the rage (low rpm high load - high rpm high load). I believe it works in conjunction with the vacuum valve (brown) and vacuum pump. I should investigate myself too.

3. I'm not sure, I would think not, it's connected to the vacuum valve (brown) isn't it, I'd have thought it'd open when a vacuum present so not when there's positive pressure but hey things can leak. Mine grumbles when shutting down the engine every so often so perhaps back leaking ever so slightly which I can put up with.

Take the turbos actuator linkage off the electronic control box side and move the linkage throughout it's full range. Feel for it binding up or grittyness, could be the VNT vanes and carbon buildup creating the jerkyness because they're binding up. That or the brown vacuum valve is dirty giving making the actuator play up. Tough one...

cobrin · 16-11-2017, 09:35 PM

#2 yeah there shouldn't be any positive pressure from that line, it should always be a vacuum or normal atmosphere pressure when not opening the wastegate and it should be able to hold a vacuum when testing with a vacuum gauge.

bungfritz · 17-11-2017, 06:08 PM

15 MD Titanium - Recently had a clicking noise and feedback when going past one rotation lock from the steering wheel. Felt like something was loose inside, but not related to suspension as it happened regardless whether car was stationary or moving and occured only after turning steering wheel past one rotation lock.

Aparently problem caused due to the airbag tensioning clips going loose, and is a common problem on Mondeo's as per other people's forum post.

Tension clips were re-tightened and now not a problem anymore.

rondeo · 22-11-2017, 03:32 PM

Not a big problem but screws for the fender lining are $6.70 EACH at ford. These are 10g by 3/4 self tappers with captive washers. Something wrong there.

The car is too low for AUS. Ripped the lining out on rocks at the side of a driveway.

Otherwise quite happy.

http://www.kcstudio.com/selden.html

http://scaclips.com.au/screws-washer...ex-head-screws

Highway cruser · 03-12-2017, 05:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam123

Mondeo TDCI 2.0 wagon year 2010
Questions:

1. Turbo wastegate by default open or close? Engine off or idle, will the open/close position change?

2. Boost solenoid - 2 plugs (vacuum and outlet) when should the vacuum be in outlet pipe? In idle, should there be vacuum present in outlet and as soon as put foot down on throttle should the vacuum come to an stopped? Or should there be no vacuum in idle but when throttled up, there should be vacuum in outlet pipe?

3. Boost hose - The skinny one from turbo compressor to actuator to boost solenoid. (T hose) should there be any pressure coming out from solenoid end if rev engine to 3000 - 4000rpm?

My issue is I'm trying to solve turbo boost problem on my Mondeo, when I bought the car, it had ALOT of boost could feel it goes on a red light. Recently, I feel turbo boost then jerks for abit then trying to boost again. At times it also changes gear while it is trying to boost. For eg, if it is boosting in 2nd gear it quickly changes to 3rd gear (no the rpm is still way under red sign, maybe 3000rpm or 3500rpm). (Auto gearbox)
Any help/ suggestions will be highly be appreciated.

Sam,

I come from a Patrol ZD30 back ground so i'm hoping the turbo set up is the same as on the ZD's, from what i've read they are so i'll try and explain the turbo set up as best i can.

A VNT turbo don't have waste gates like a traditional turbo. It has veins which control the angle the exhaust is directed at the turbine. the angle will change how the turbo performs, so this means that you can get a lot of boost at low revs and maintain it through the rev range unlike a normal waste gate turbo. The actuator on top of the turbo controls the pitch of the veins and through fore the speed of the turbo. On the ZD's there's vacuum on the actuator when ever the motor is running and sits against the actuator arm stop. this position gives max boost for the load on the motor/ throttle position. once the ecu sees that there's enough boost the ecu will reduce the amount of vacuum via the boost controller allowing the actuator arm to drop lower, change the position of the veins and reduce the boost the turbo is producing.
If you're having issue with making boost compared to as it use to it's worth looking for either a vacuum leak (where i would start) or a boost leak. I have even heard of leaks in the EGR system causing issue with boost on the ZD's but only once.
The ZD's have very bad boost control from the ECU especially on the earlier Di's so it's very common for it to be by-passed and a manual boost controller used. The system is actually borrowed from VW's, it's known Dawes and needle valve or a Tillix is an alternative to the Dawes. I have had vacuum leaks causing poor boost, so either check or change all the vac lines. if that doesn't work try connecting the vac source directly from the vac pump to the actuator. However be VERY careful as there will be no control on the turbo and will continue to make boost and not back off. This is for fault finding only. Assuming that there's vac present and the boost still doesn't come up then you probably have an issue with the actuator.

sailaway · 04-12-2017, 09:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Highway cruser

Sam,

I come from a Patrol ZD30 back ground so i'm hoping the turbo set up is the same as on the ZD's, from what i've read they are so i'll try and explain the turbo set up as best i can.

A VNT turbo don't have waste gates like a traditional turbo. It has veins which control the angle the exhaust is directed at the turbine. the angle will

Thanks for that info. Most informative. Cheers

Please for ease of reading space it out a bit like you started and the piece you quoted.
Reminder to self: Contact Optometrist for test.

Sam123 · 04-12-2017, 03:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Highway cruser

Sam,

I come from a Patrol ZD30 back ground so i'm hoping the turbo set up is the same as on the ZD's, from what i've read they are so i'll try and explain the turbo set up as best i can.

A VNT turbo don't have waste gates like a traditional turbo. It has veins which control the angle the exhaust is directed at the turbine. the angle will change how the turbo performs, so this means that you can get a lot of boost at low revs and maintain it through the rev range unlike a normal waste gate turbo. The actuator on top of the turbo controls the pitch of the veins and through fore the speed of the turbo. On the ZD's there's vacuum on the actuator when ever the motor is running and sits against the actuator arm stop. this position gives max boost for the load on the motor/ throttle position. once the ecu sees that there's enough boost the ecu will reduce the amount of vacuum via the boost controller allowing the actuator arm to drop lower, change the position of the veins and reduce the boost the turbo is producing.
If you're having issue with making boost compared to as it use to it's worth looking for either a vacuum leak (where i would start) or a boost leak. I have even heard of leaks in the EGR system causing issue with boost on the ZD's but only once.
The ZD's have very bad boost control from the ECU especially on the earlier Di's so it's very common for it to be by-passed and a manual boost controller used. The system is actually borrowed from VW's, it's known Dawes and needle valve or a Tillix is an alternative to the Dawes. I have had vacuum leaks causing poor boost, so either check or change all the vac lines. if that doesn't work try connecting the vac source directly from the vac pump to the actuator. However be VERY careful as there will be no control on the turbo and will continue to make boost and not back off. This is for fault finding only. Assuming that there's vac present and the boost still doesn't come up then you probably have an issue with the actuator.

Thanks for the information here. Another issue perhaps you may have come across is. The mileage estimate keeps on changing after every restart. When driving on highway it'll increase mileage estimate say 500kms. If i turn off the car and restart it'll go to 460kms (just an example)

Why would this be? Any idea?

Highway cruser · 04-12-2017, 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam123

Thanks for the information here. Another issue perhaps you may have come across is. The mileage estimate keeps on changing after every restart. When driving on highway it'll increase mileage estimate say 500kms. If i turn off the car and restart it'll go to 460kms (just an example)

Why would this be? Any idea?

I would say it uses an average over a period of time/Km's to work out how many k's are left in the tank. When you're on the high way it's running more efficent than it's standard setting which it would have programmed into it which shows on start up.

bundybear75 · 05-12-2017, 03:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam123

Thanks for the information here. Another issue perhaps you may have come across is. The mileage estimate keeps on changing after every restart. When driving on highway it'll increase mileage estimate say 500kms. If i turn off the car and restart it'll go to 460kms (just an example)

Why would this be? Any idea?

Depends on the level of the car at park also. My old house has a reasonable slope to the kerb and when parked along kerb the tank would indicate a lot fuller than it actually was, and could make 150km difference in the D.T.E

It also recalculates to the driving conditions/fuel consumption of each particular drive.

cyclone1410 · 05-12-2017, 07:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bundybear75

Depends on the level of the car at park also. My old house has a reasonable slope to the kerb and when parked along kerb the tank would indicate a lot fuller than it actually was, and could make 150km difference in the D.T.E

It also recalculates to the driving conditions/fuel consumption of each particular drive.

Mine does exactly the same thing. Mileage estimate is one number when I park it on our steep upwards driveway. Next morning it is considerably worse at startup but gradually comes back to the original figure as it is driven for awhile.