OBDII Adaptors

[cobrin]

Thought I'd create a Thread about OBDII adaptors specifically those that work with Forscan seeing as it's regarded as the best in the biz for Fords/Mazda freely available. I have a 2009 MB Mondeo Zetec TDCI 2.0L 104kW (140PS) DW engine.

I stupidly bought a F-Super usb OBDII cable only to find out the Mondeo they were talking about were Pre-2007 so quite useless to me. It's also obsolete with F-Super2 topped with it will never be supported by Forscan. It's just not for those whom have '07-'14 Mondeo's. After opening it up it is a clone and a cheap one going by the two IC chips used.

Fast forward to today I picked up a package this morning. I ordered on the 29th Feb another OBDII adaptor but BTooth this time. I had read on Forscan Forums another guy also with fakes and clones for his 2007 Ford US vehicle, he had ordered this one and worked with Forscan (his was orange). So I figured why not try it.

The adaptor is from Konnwei Model: KW902. I found a green one and took a punt. $17.99 is acceptable to me considering I was thinking OBDLink MX for $100-155.

I immediately bought Forscan for Android app and that could have been a big mistake if it had not been compatible, mistakenly didn't think about it. But it works (phew) so very happy . Initially Forscan.app wasn't getting any love connection wise (deleting the BT device in android and pairing again) so I ran the supplied TorquePro.app doing the same thing and it connected. (though is very basic in what it can access)

Again it was a bit of a pain setting up Forscan after using the supplied torque app. I then used the supplied TorquePro.app and found it has power save settings to turn on and off the adaptor by default which made it interfere with connecting and setting up Forscan. Close TorquePro and the adaptor turns off. But in the end disabled the feature in Torque and started Forscan again and was all good.

It came with software for iOS/Android/Windows. So I will be setting up a laptop to try their supplied windows software (scantool_net113win) and Windows version of Forscan.

it seems to have access to everything:


On my DTC scan I picked up one code but that could have been from me setting it up in frustration, dunno will investigate it nevertheless.



Now I can get on and try to diagnose why the vehicle shut down twice, first on the 10thJan16 and later on the 28thJan16, having said that it's not happened since, it's been faultless. Which is a godsend and/or a curse.

In any case people this works well, post yours to help out a Brother with a known working OBDII adaptor.

[rondeo]

Hadn't noticed you can do screenshots on the android phone before. Good to see the KW902 bluetooth works at such a low cost.

OBD is great help for troubleshooting, combined with inspection and knowledge. Can be amusing as well.

The windows version of forscan has a bug in the scrolling of data graphs otherwise I think it has a few extra features . . .

[burkey05]

does the mondeo have MSCAN as well as HSCAN?

i know the falcon does. info on modifying your obd2 adapter to read both is on the Forscan website here

actually reading further on that website it says;

Note for Mondeo Mk3 owners: only models after restyling in July 2003 have MS-CAN modules. And this bus only keeps few modules like ACM and EATC. You do NOT need the MS-CAN modification to access engine, ICU and all other modules except ACM and EATC.

so it may not be worth modifying for mondeo owners

[cobrin]

Originally Posted by burkey05

does the mondeo have MSCAN as well as HSCAN?

that's a good question and I'd say you're right about not needing it for the Mondeo's, on the Forscan Forum it notes:

Note: If FORScan doesn't ask you about HS/MS CAN switch (see chapter 2 below), it means it doesn't suspect MS CAN modules on the board and will not check for them, even if you modify the ELM.

When setting up Forscan it did ask me if I had a switch, to which I selected 'I Don't Know' even though I did, so it may have the ability. I don't know if I'm game enough to open it up and fit a switch even though it's BT cause I've just gotten it. I'd be interested to know out of curiosity as it may extend functions/features to other vehicles. I don't mind that.

Yeah as for the screenshot, for me it's press and hold "vol- & power button" together and it takes the shot. One+1 phone.

[rondeo]

Originally Posted by burkey05

does the mondeo have MSCAN as well as HSCAN?

For MY 2011 Yes:

TRM (MSCAN) Trailer module
SRM (MSCAN) Speech recognition module
PDM (MSCAN) Passenger door control unit
DDM (MSCAN) Driver door module
ACM (MSCAN) Audio control module
IPC (MSCAN) Instrument panel controller

OBDLink MX has built in MSCAN support.

[rondeo]

If what I read is true,

The generic electronic module (GEM) under the glovebox contains the interface between the HS and MSCAN buses. It converts the data rate up or down to allow them to communicate with each other.

I posted a list of DTCs set by the GEM, most of which are based on communication received from the medium speed (MS) bus.

[manchu]

Can anyone recommend an iOS app to use with my cheapy adapter from ebay ELM327 V1.5 WIFI.

notes on seller page recommends Dashcommand ($15), but was hoping for a free/cheaper app to test out first.

[burkey05]

Originally Posted by manchu

Can anyone recommend an iOS app to use with my cheapy adapter from ebay ELM327 V1.5 WIFI.

notes on seller page recommends Dashcommand ($15), but was hoping for a free/cheaper app to test out first.

torque pro or Forscan

i'm not sure how much they are as I have the both installed on my phone and cannot see the price. from memory they were only around $5 each

edit: looks like only forscan is available for IOS and its $7.99
works very well on the FG falcon, but I've never used it on a Mondeo if that's what your going to use it on

[manchu]

Cheers. Gave forscan a go and it works fine. Connected first go and seems to respond quickly.

Tells me my adapter is v2.1, not v1.5 as stated on eBay page. Not sure what diff that makes.

Edit. Yes. It's a Mondeo. 2012.

[rondeo]

Originally Posted by manchu

Can anyone recommend an iOS app to use with my cheapy adapter from ebay ELM327 V1.5 WIFI.

notes on seller page recommends Dashcommand ($15), but was hoping for a free/cheaper app to test out first.

Any generic reader will display OBDII fault codes, which is mandated. If you want to switch between manufacturers Forscan will not work. Forscan is best for Fords and will access more information. With an el cheapo adapter though, you will not see MSCAN. Not that I'm an expert, but my experience.

[manchu]

Originally Posted by rondeo

Any generic reader will display OBDII fault codes, which is mandated. If you want to switch between manufacturers Forscan will not work. Forscan is best for Fords and will access more information. With an el cheapo adapter though, you will not see MSCAN.

cheers for the info.

I only need it for the Mondeo so suits me fine. I've also got a mazda, which it might work with too.

I've got no idea what MSCAN is or what extra it will do for me, but after a quick look through info available through the cheapo adapter and forscan I can't imagine I'd need more!.

[rondeo]

MS in MSCAN stands for 'medium speed', as opposed to 'high speed'. Tasks like keeping the engine going is communicated on the HSCAN bus, while whether or not the doors are locked or not goes on the MSCAN bus. CAN stands for 'computer area network'.

Not all HSCAN module details will be accessible by a generic scanner, only DTCs reported to the GEM. Forscan covers all available modules on the Mondeo in detail, such as temperature, pressure etc.

[Mondaveo]

I'm wanting to monitor the health of my transmission sensors (since I have cause to doubt the Powershift is not about to fail), so last week I splurged and ordered myself an OBDLink MX. China and Australia Posts impressed by delivering it to me yesterday - excellent timing, as I have to drive to Sydney this weekend, so will now be able to use the trip for close observation and data logging.

I tried the supplied OBDLink app for Android, but it didn't seem to have the detail I needed so I switched over to FORScan Demo (will be buying the full-featured version soon). To my surprise it unearthed several DTCs right off the bat:

• TRM Trailer Module: U2101:00-2F Control Module Configuration Incomplete
• PDM Passenger Door Control Module: B1109:15-68 Passenger door central locking
• RFA Remote Function Actuator: U0402:68-08 Invalid data received
• ACM Audio Control Module: U0140:00-28 Lost communication

and a TCM P0715:



Pity it's not timestamped, I'd have liked to know when that was logged (and if it was more than once).

Weirdness -

While I was futzing about last night, the 'Low battery' alert came up on the dash. A short while later the radio spontaneously shut off, which is probably the source of the code logged by the ACM.

I connected up my trickle-charger to the vehicle's battery and this morning the LED was green for charged, but the car was still giving the 'Low battery' message? One of the other DTCs above said something about 'battery open circuit', maybe it has to do with the fact I still have the trickle charger connected?

I haven't yet tried to turn the radio back on. Hopefully it still works, because driving to Sydney with no tunes will suck!
Also hope that I don't need a new battery right now, as it's an inconvenient time to have to try to source one (but it'll be more inconvenient if it dies while in Sydney...)!

[rondeo]

Originally Posted by Mondaveo

China and Australia Posts impressed by delivering it to me yesterday

Is that a Chinese clone? Does it have battery saving technology?
I use the genuine one from America, feel more confident with it, particularly in control mode.

Get a battery test/renew then reset DTCs?

Low battery can cause module issues?

[manchu]

Probably due for a new battery if it's the original from 2011. I'd be surprised if the adaptor would drain the battery in an afternoon. just coincidence that it's happened now?

[Mondaveo]

Originally Posted by rondeo

Is that a Chinese clone? Does it have battery saving technology?
I use the genuine one from America, feel more confident with it, particularly in control mode.

Yes, genuine Scantool in official box (or at least it looks like it). Just so happened to be a Chinese seller, with a UK ebay listing funnily enough. I noted that other listings on ebay AU were also selling out of China (none truly local). Anyhow, this one at £60 worked out the cheapest after currency conversion (<$120).

I'm like you, confidence is important, and I wanted the battery saver so I didn't look at clones.

Originally Posted by rondeo

Get a battery test/renew then reset DTCs?

Low battery can cause module issues?

Thanks, after reading another account of radio, ACC and other features shutting off being traced to a failing battery, I think getting it tested and replaced before departure is the way to go.

Originally Posted by manchu

Probably due for a new battery if it's the original from 2011. I'd be surprised if the adaptor would drain the battery in an afternoon. just coincidence that it's happened now?

I actually had a 'Low battery' come up several weeks ago, after an afternoon cleaning the car with the radio on; the engine started, and afterwards I hooked up my charger and it didn't recur. Wasn't entirely surprised to see the message come back; but I am surprised that now after an overnight charge (even with the charger still hooked up), the car still reports it's low when turned on. I'd say you're right though; assuming it is the original battery, it's probably just time.

The bigger coincidence is that it was only a couple of months ago that our Barina lost its original battery...

[Mondaveo]

Update. I ordered a right-angle OBDII connector like rondeo described in another thread, which arrived from Hong Kong this week. Unfortunately my OBDLink MX seems not to like it, as it loses visibility to many modules and Forscan reports CAN Error 57; I'm guessing it's due to poor-quality cable. Any tips on where to get a known good one from?

I've been driving around using my smartphone to log data for GISS, RPM, gear selection and some others. My hope is these will show up if anything is misbehaving and something (like a sensor) is on the way out; as well as the scan tool giving better information if I experience another loss of power event. Happily, no breakdowns... though I have had a couple of occasions where the Powershift had to hunt for gears or shifted harshly. I haven't got further than a cursory look at my data for those yet tho.

Oddly, I noticed last night that several DTCs had come back since I cleared them, including P0715 on my TCM
Again, not sure exactly when that occurred (unfortunately I cleared my Forscan log that might have narrowed it down) but it looks like it might be a persistent problem. Is there a way to set Forscan to immediately alert when a DTC pops up?

I also had ACM "lost communication" and TRM "configuration incompatible" again (the latter recurs immediately when I clear it) and another "Circuit Short To Battery Or Open", this time on my driver's mirror (last time it was the passenger door central locking).

The 'Low battery' alert also came up on my cluster again, so the car is back on the trickle charger. (I bus to work, so it doesn't get driven on the weekdays.) I don't know if it's right or accurate, but the BATT_VOLT PID on the BCMii showed it sitting at 12.10 - 12.15 V (also ECU voltage is 12.00V and there were a couple others that showed 12.38V).

Is this starting to look like a basket case?

[cobrin]

Geez I'd be inclined to replace the battery personally. Low battery voltage like that plays some weird crap with electrical.

Sorry I have no idea about the obd2 adaptor, except opening it up and soldering quality wire instead.

I dont think it's a basket case.

[Mondaveo]

Originally Posted by cobrin

Geez I'd be inclined to replace the battery personally. Low battery voltage like that plays some weird crap with electrical.

You're probably right but while a battery is not expensive in the grand scheme of things, unfortunately money is a bit tight at the moment, so I'm loathe to shell out for a new one if it's not needed... and it tested good just a fortnight ago. But clearly I need to get myself a cheap multimeter to test and see what's really going on. In the meantime I can just keep topping it up with electricity...

Originally Posted by cobrin

Sorry I have no idea about the obd2 adaptor, except opening it up and soldering quality wire instead.

I could probably try that, it was cheap after all and shouldn't be too hard.

Originally Posted by cobrin

I dont think it's a basket case.

Yeah, that was a bit tongue-in-cheek, because it was such a long list. That said, I am a bit concerned there's a short-circuit (per the DTC) draining my battery; but it's just as likely the battery itself causing all this...

[rondeo]

Originally Posted by Mondaveo

Update. I ordered a right-angle OBDII connector like rondeo described in another thread, which arrived from Hong Kong this week. Unfortunately my OBDLink MX seems not to like it, as it loses visibility to many modules and Forscan reports CAN Error 57; I'm guessing it's due to poor-quality cable. Any tips on where to get a known good one from?

I've been driving around using my smartphone to log data for GISS, RPM, gear selection and some others. My hope is these will show up if anything is misbehaving and something (like a sensor) is on the way out; as well as the scan tool giving better information if I experience another loss of power event. Happily, no breakdowns... though I have had a couple of occasions where the Powershift had to hunt for gears or shifted harshly. I haven't got further than a cursory look at my data for those yet tho.

Oddly, I noticed last night that several DTCs had come back since I cleared them, including P0715 on my TCM
Again, not sure exactly when that occurred (unfortunately I cleared my Forscan log that might have narrowed it down) but it looks like it might be a persistent problem. Is there a way to set Forscan to immediately alert when a DTC pops up?

I also had ACM "lost communication" and TRM "configuration incompatible" again (the latter recurs immediately when I clear it) and another "Circuit Short To Battery Or Open", this time on my driver's mirror (last time it was the passenger door central locking).

The 'Low battery' alert also came up on my cluster again, so the car is back on the trickle charger. (I bus to work, so it doesn't get driven on the weekdays.) I don't know if it's right or accurate, but the BATT_VOLT PID on the BCMii showed it sitting at 12.10 - 12.15 V (also ECU voltage is 12.00V and there were a couple others that showed 12.38V).

Is this starting to look like a basket case?

If the battery was tested OK then why is it low?

Did the tech check the generator output?

For DIY 'no load' battery voltage should be 12.4V upwards. Normally when cranking the engine this will fall to about 11V. A digital multimeter with min/max function or a good analogue meter can be used. If the battery is low and the voltage falls below 9V, the computer will not function normally and may then give electrical fault DTCs?

If the generator and battery test OK and the battery still goes flat then potentially there is a 'parasitic drain' ie a constant abnormal drain when car not in use. This would require an auto electrician to check.

I think there is an issue generally with the trailer module, both my cars have always had a DTC there, it's sort of reassuring actually.

The DLC extension cable should be connected pin for pin. You need a spare plug and socket and a multimeter to do a wiggle test.

I'd start with a new battery anyway and check the voltage at the terminals once a week if a fault is suspected.

[Mondaveo]

So this is kind of cool - I found additional battery PIDs under the BCMii module, including state of charge and number of days in service. 1948! That's 5 and a third years, which is basically the age of the car (build date Nov '10). If that's true then it would be the original battery and possibly getting tired. (Wonder if BMS reset is required to reset that count, or it just knows when a new battery is connected and restarts counting?)

After charging and a drive today, it went up to 93% charged and the V_BATT read 12.68 with the engine off, so it may be happy for now. Will check back during the week to see if it discharges abnormally quickly.

[rondeo]

That's very cool indeed, I haven't seen it before. And it's my year of birth as well!

Just shows how a forum can help share information.


I might need to update my Android Forscan.


So there IS a BMS reset, otherwise the battery age would be meaningless. Question is how is it reset?

Does it apply to all three specs, LX etc?

[rondeo]

Originally Posted by Mondaveo

So this is kind of cool - I found additional battery PIDs under the BCMii module, including state of charge and number of days in service. 1948! That's 5 and a third years, which is basically the age of the car (build date Nov '10). If that's true then it would be the original battery and possibly getting tired. (Wonder if BMS reset is required to reset that count, or it just knows when a new battery is connected and restarts counting?)

After charging and a drive today, it went up to 93% charged and the V_BATT read 12.68 with the engine off, so it may be happy for now. Will check back during the week to see if it discharges abnormally quickly.

I took at look at my car which has recently had a new battery and no, the day counter is not automatically reset by removing the battery. There are two ways of changing the battery, with or without a backup battery. I've had mine out both ways so answer seems to be confirmed.

Both our cars are showing 80% state of charge, which is the level the BMS aims for. Your 93% is not normal unless an external charger has been used. If the battery is failing then it's a fiction anyway, just a superficial charge which soon disappears.

[Mondaveo]

Originally Posted by rondeo

I took at look at my car which has recently had a new battery and no, the day counter is not automatically reset by removing the battery. There are two ways of changing the battery, with or without a backup battery. I've had mine out both ways so answer seems to be confirmed.

Thanks, I was pretty sure when I posted that you would be along shortly to confirm experimentally

The question is, would a BMS reset do anything for you beyond restarting the counter?

24 hours have elapsed so I rechecked my battery readings: 12.30V @ 84%. That amount of change in itself suggests it may be suspect.

I popped the hood to have a closer look for some kind of manufacture mark to confirm the battery age, but couldn't see much further due to the plastic battery tray cover. I did discern that it has a bubble/window to show the battery state - hidden down the far end of the plastic shroud where it can't be seen!

[rondeo]

Originally Posted by Mondaveo

The question is, would a BMS reset do anything for you beyond restarting the counter?

From the evidence I've seen I'd say no.

You can see what sort of battery you have by flipping the positive terminal lid and using a torch. If it is a Ford silver calcium it will likely be the original.

Some extracts from the Ford workshop manual:


'Smart Regenerative Charging uses the information from the battery monitoring sensor to maintain the battery at a calibrated state of charge (approx. 80%) at all times. This means that the battery has a certain amount of extra charging capacity at all times.

If the battery monitoring sensor detects that the charge status is above the calibrated value (approx. 80%), then the generator charging voltage is reduced in order to discharge the battery. If the opposite occurs and too low a value is detected, the charging value is increased in order to return the battery to the calibrated value.'

and

'The Battery Monitor Sensor measures temperature, voltage and current throughput of the battery. It uses this information to calculate the battery SOC (State of Charge).

To function with high accuracy, the Battery Monitor Sensor must be recalibrated at regular intervals.

A recalibration occurs during a rest period when the battery quiescent current is less than 100mA.

This rest period must last for at least 3 hours.

The longer the rest period, the greater the accuracy.

The timeframe in which a recalibration must take place is seven days.

If the system has been unable to carry out a recalibration within 7 days, the SOC accuracy cannot be guaranteed.

This will result in the Start – Stop and SRC systems being deactivated.'

[Mondaveo]

Originally Posted by rondeo

You can see what sort of battery you have by flipping the positive terminal lid and using a torch. If it is a Ford silver calcium it will likely be the original.

I'd already observed a sticker on the positive terminal end identifying it as a Motorcraft DIN75L MF, which would suggest it's a replacement. But, if the BATTERY_AGE figure is to be believed, then it would have been installed shortly after the car was manufactured. So I was looking for some kind of date mark to corroborate whether the battery was really that old, or if it's a case of the day counter not having been reset. But it's impossible to see anything more of the battery (including the colour in the status window waaay down near the negative terminal end), without physically removing it.

Originally Posted by rondeo

extracts from the Ford workshop manual...

Thanks. So it sounds like the BMS is continuously recalibrating itself, so there is no reset required to work with a new battery (it effectively resets automatically) except to restart the counter.

[rondeo]

Originally Posted by Mondaveo

So it sounds like the BMS is continuously recalibrating itself, so there is no reset required to work with a new battery (it effectively resets automatically) except to restart the counter.

Reading the manual again I see this which I had forgotten about seeing before:

'Battery Monitoring Sensor reset

The Battery Monitoring Sensor also estimates losses in the battery capacity over time. The Battery Monitoring Sensor should be reset to factory default settings, when the battery is replaced.

It is urgently recommended that the replacement battery has the exact same specification as the original battery. If it does not, the accuracy of the Battery Monitoring Sensor outputs will be compromised.

The Battery Monitoring Sensor reset is part of the battery replacement procedure in IDS (Integrated Diagnostic System).'

Notice BMS would mean battery monitoring SENSOR in that context, not SYSTEM.

The sensor is on the negative battery terminal:

'Battery Monitoring Sensor connection

The Battery Monitoring Sensor is clamped directly to the negative terminal of the battery and grounds to the vehicle at the chassis ground connection point by means of a thick (25 to 35mm2) cable and eyelet. External customer loads must only be connected to the vehicle at the customer battery connection point. If the external customer load is connected at the negative battery post, the Battery Monitoring Sensor accuracy cannot be guaranteed.

It is recommended that the Battery Monitoring Sensor pole clamp is not removed unless a battery replacement is required. Should the battery need to be isolated, this should be done by disconnecting the ground eyelet at the chassis ground.'

So the reset question is still open I'd say.

[rondeo]

Originally Posted by Mondaveo

image

By the way, the current is given as amps in Forscan. It should be amp hours. If it really were amps you'd be the proud owner of a melted mondeo.

At 20 cents per kw hour 483875 amp hour is about $96 worth of electricity used to charge the battery.


Calculation of average charging current:

1948 days * 24 = 46752 hours

483875 amp hours divide by 46752 hours = 10.35 amps which is about right for average charging current.

[cobrin]

OK so it looks like I've got some work to do this weekend, I've not had an issue with the car since the end of January. The OBDII adaptor has been brilliant I've just not had enough logging time. However I thought I stuffed up going into demo mode on forscan for a play which consequently gave me a heap of DCT's.

In the log I can find actual Mondeo errors from the time stamp and different Vehicle profiles, so note to self don't play when you're in the middle of logging trips. I get the odd abs code thrown but that was me turning the key on and off in the initial handshake.

My latest and only code:(those below that were in Demo Mode)


P02E1 - 72 - 6C
P02E1 - problems with the quality of the air flow control operation at the inlet of the diesel engine
Fault Type: 72 - sticking the actuator in open position
Status: 6C
At the time of DTC test request is not unfulfilled
In this cycle monitoring DTC test is not unfulfilled
Untreated (DTC)
Confirmed (DTC)
Since the last erasure codes DTC test is completed
The test is not completed since the last reset
This test is not complete monitoring cycle
DTC does not require a warning display

So it looks like the charge air actuator may be faulty, and from what I gather wear and tear on the internal gear is not uncommon. That actuator is helpful to regulate the EGR mix.( and close when engine off)

So unfortunately it's not looking like being related my initial stalling problem just something I've caught developing early on. I still have vacuum leaks and exhaust leaks to eliminate if I've got any but I hope it's slowly but surely getting close to closure. If anything I'm moving forward...

[rondeo]

Clear the codes and read again for confirmation?

Any symptoms?