RPMs getting stuck

c1983 · 17-08-2011, 05:32 PM

Sorry if this sounds like a stupid question as I don't know much about cars. I've got a 2000 Ford cougar (auto) and notice sometimes the rpms get stuck at about 3000 (speed 60km/hr-70).
When it happens I take my foot off the accelarator the speed drops but rpms stay the same, if I brake it feels as though the wheels lock up. The other day when this happened I noticed the traction control light flashed a couple of times.
Known problems with the car - front arm bushes are worn, it needs new rotors (brake warning light has been on for nearly 4 months now) but the brake pads are fine and the battery warning light comes on sometimes
Just wondering if anyone has any ideas what might be the problem .
(taking the car in for a service tommorow.

thearrow · 18-08-2011, 02:31 PM

Sounds like a brake problem to me, how is your fuel consumption?? If the battery light is coming on it could be your alternator or even a slipping belt.

Let us know what youe mechanic says.

c1983 · 19-08-2011, 01:09 PM

Got it back yesterday, mechanic took the wheels off rotors are fine - mechanic said something about the a broken sensor causing the light to come on.
A few things were fixed air filter which was clogged, fuel filter had to be worked on and an ESG sensor, not sure what that is....mechanic wanted to keep the price under $300..
Taking my car back Monday morning though b/c of cracked engine mounts - apparently fine to drive, but I don’t want to till it’s fixed. Also the spark plugs are severely worn as well as a cable that attaches to the spark plugs, sorry can’t remember what this was. Re belt would that be the drive belt (or fan belt?) I know that needs work I'm asking the mechanic to check this out when I take the car in Monday.
Re fuel It's using 10.6L/100km which is up from 10.2L/100km – btw when I bought my car was sitting on just above 13L/100km.
Thanks for you help!

thearrow · 19-08-2011, 06:02 PM

How long since you had a service ????

Our cars do not have "drive" belts or timing belts coz we have chain drive instead. If your fan belt is slipping it may cause the alternatior light to come on.

Man that is a long list suggest you get your parts from here

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...0&model=COUGAR

and don't pay the extortionate prices that FRAUD charge for their parts. What I do is get a list from my mechanic and order from the USA as it only takes about 5 days for the parts to be delivered to your door at a 1/4 of the cost from FRAUD.

REDDYZ · 20-08-2011, 03:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by c1983

Sorry if this sounds like a stupid question as I don't know much about cars. I've got a 2000 Ford cougar (auto) and notice sometimes the rpms get stuck at about 3000 (speed 60km/hr-70).
When it happens I take my foot off the accelarator the speed drops but rpms stay the same, if I brake it feels as though the wheels lock up. The other day when this happened I noticed the traction control light flashed a couple of times.
Known problems with the car - front arm bushes are worn, it needs new rotors (brake warning light has been on for nearly 4 months now) but the brake pads are fine and the battery warning light comes on sometimes
Just wondering if anyone has any ideas what might be the problem .
(taking the car in for a service tommorow.

Sounds like a transmission problem or some sensor (may be throttle positon sensor TPS). I dont think brakes or traction control has anything to do. What I understand is that you mentioned "When you take foot off the accelerator the speed drops but rpms remains same which means transmission is kicking down and because of engine rpms car is still under acceleration. Thats why you feel like wheels are locking up and traction control is kicking in. Because you are trying to brake while car is under acceleration. Imagine applying brake while pushing accelerator.. simultaneously (in an automatic car). Obviously brakes will lock up and traction control will kick in.

I would suggest to fix the rpm problem first because you are driving auto. If it is manual you have an option to use clutch to cut off the engine. But with auto, brakes are the only option to control engine when engine rpms wont come down after letting foot off accelerator pedal. Ofcourse you can shift to neutral but imagine you are driving in traffic. There is high risk of you bumping into the car infront.

Get your mechanic to retrieve fault codes (Diagnostics Trouble Codes.. DTC) hooking up a scan tool and am pretty sure that will point out the actual problem.

c1983 · 25-08-2011, 03:38 PM

I got my cougar in November last year, it's serviced (basic sevice) monthly as part of the warranty ...
The belt is a water pump drive belt that was replaced today. Also the spark plugs, bottom rear engine mounts, front bottom engine mounts and the ignition leads needed replacing. Apparently transmission is fine...

idk...b/c that's what I thought might be the problem.
Anyway I'm sure it's something to do with transmission....happened again this afternoon, rpms up car doesn't want to accelerate...I'm sure if I were to press down on the accelerate the speed wouldn't go up much but the rpms would.
It's booked in with my mechanic first thing tomorrow morning. I'll make sure to ask the mechanic to retrieve fault codes t
Thanks!
..Oh and my cougar is a Mercury cougar (has the Mercury label not Ford , set up like an American car - indicators are on the left side , windscreen wipers right not sure if that makes a difference or not..

baz · 25-08-2011, 03:58 PM

All the cougars have the indicators and wipers back to front, its common now.
Baz

scout · 25-08-2011, 11:49 PM

I recently had a problem with my Cougar it may be similar to yours. Whilst driving revs seemed to be eratic it changed up and down for no apparent reason. I took it to a mechanic with an up to date diagnostic reading tool and he found it was a Gear Selection Modual, if you search this on this forum or NECO you will find it has many names. I ordered the new one through Rock Auto. it cost about $28.00 plus postage all up under $50.00. The important thing is to have a competent person check it out to ensure you find the fault, replacement took me about 1 hour rather easy and there is info available on the NECO site to explain how it is done.
Trev

c1983 · 12-09-2011, 02:27 PM

Just want to say thanks for the help, I ordered a throttle position sensor and gear position sensor from rockauto + had the parts replaced today. Got the car back now, mechanic said he ran a check on the transmission/gear box and no error codes showed up in the computer. Hopefully wont get any probs now!

baz · 19-09-2011, 06:03 PM

This happened to me this morning, coming into a roundabout pushed in the clutch and the revs went up to about 3500rpm, seemed to fix itself further down the highway. It did this for the first time about 9 months ago,i'm thinking TPS, because if it was vacume it would be doing it all the time,
I will order a PTS just incase. can someone tell me where it is on the engine ,this falt is bloody dangerous,

baz · 19-09-2011, 06:22 PM

Can you get the PTS units here or do I have to go to rockuato?
Baz

REDDYZ · 19-09-2011, 11:15 PM

You should be able to find one here, might be expensive. Its a good idea to retrieve fault codes to pin point the problem. Could be just some vacuum hose. TPS will be on the throttle body opposite to the throttle cable assembly. It will have electrical wire plugged in. Dont replace it by your self. It has to go in and bolt on exactly in the original position.

baz · 20-09-2011, 09:47 AM

I have a CAN OBD11 scan tool , it came up saying no codes, so I don't know what to do, I think it might be worth changing PTS. like I said a vacume leak would be doing it more often.