Drag Racing Questions

**Bluepower** · 15-05-2006, 07:48 PM

Greetings everyone.

This area of the Bluepower forum is for people who would like to ask a question regarding Drag Racing their car.

We have much experience in this field, and if we can help in any way, pls feel free to ask. Be patient, we may be slow in answering, but we will help everyone to the best of our ability.

Regard

Chris

347_XR8 · 15-05-2006, 08:39 PM

I'll kick it off.
I was at Calder the other night (first time out with the new beast) and i'm having trouble launching the car. I either nearly stall it, due to not enough rev's, or i get axel tramp/diff bounce (sometimes very severe).
Just wondering if you could help with my launching technique?

It's a EB V8 with a T5 manual for those that don't know.

DOC · 15-05-2006, 08:44 PM

Hi Chris,
I will be happy to start ( and don't care if others think it is stupiid ), what i would like to see is a general training day for the guys n gals, i often read classes for the girls but never anything for the guys ( from what i have seen any way ).

It would be good to cover the basics with some tuition regarding the terms, saftey, setup etc, then to back up the afternoon with in car runs ( at practice speed ) to cover the application side of things regarding launch, revs getting the 60' down etc.

Chris i have over the many years like most been a back street racer and yep all is good but to have a days tuition and training in a group with experianced people is something i would pay for.

Pete

XRCIST · 15-05-2006, 09:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DOC

Hi Chris,
I will be happy to start ( and don't care if others think it is stupiid ), what i would like to see is a general training day for the guys n gals, i often read classes for the girls but never anything for the guys ( from what i have seen any way ).

It would be good to cover the basics with some tuition regarding the terms, saftey, setup etc, then to back up the afternoon with in car runs ( at practice speed ) to cover the application side of things regarding launch, revs getting the 60' down etc.

Chris i have over the many years like most been a back street racer and yep all is good but to have a days tuition and training in a group with experianced people is something i would pay for.

Pete

Thats a great idea Pete, i to would pay for something like that.

Hey Chris, i just wanted to ask you, when racing do you change gears manually in the ute or do you just leave it in performance mode?

Also, would there be any benefit in doing a little burnout before the run if your using sp9000s? Finally, with these tyres what pressure do you think would be suitable?

**Chris** · 15-05-2006, 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 347_XR8

I'll kick it off.
I was at Calder the other night (first time out with the new beast) and i'm having trouble launching the car. I either nearly stall it, due to not enough rev's, or i get axel tramp/diff bounce (sometimes very severe).
Just wondering if you could help with my launching technique?

It's a EB V8 with a T5 manual for those that don't know.

Lukey - your car is a special case, as it has bags of torque, is lowered and is a manual. I'll start with the ride height.

When a car launches, it tries to twist the diff out of the car. The revs at which you launch will denote the rate of twist. having low stiff suspension will try to reverse the energy back, with the engine fighting back every step of the way, which brings on the tramp.

Raising the suspension and softening it a little will help out a mile - after doing a few meetings i would suggest re-doing your suspension to a more conservative approach height wise, and watch your 60 drop.

Achieving this will then see a need for a better tyre/clutch combo. Your tyre and clutch go hand in hand when searching for a launch. Too good in tyre choice with a stock clutch will see the clutch slip, whilst with a gun clutch and ordinary tyre will see plenty of smoke.

You need to make some choices regarding appearance (ride height) application of vehicle and driveability (clutch). I can loan you some tyres, but i would look at the first two issues first and foremost.

Chris

**Chris** · 15-05-2006, 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DOC

Hi Chris,
I will be happy to start ( and don't care if others think it is stupiid ), what i would like to see is a general training day for the guys n gals, i often read classes for the girls but never anything for the guys ( from what i have seen any way ).

It would be good to cover the basics with some tuition regarding the terms, saftey, setup etc, then to back up the afternoon with in car runs ( at practice speed ) to cover the application side of things regarding launch, revs getting the 60' down etc.

Chris i have over the many years like most been a back street racer and yep all is good but to have a days tuition and training in a group with experianced people is something i would pay for.

Pete

Great idea Pete - we could get a few of my fast clients and slow clients at a "Bluepower test and tune" and go through the motions.

Ill get to work on it.

Chris

**Chris** · 15-05-2006, 09:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XRCIST

Thats a great idea Pete, i to would pay for something like that.

Hey Chris, i just wanted to ask you, when racing do you change gears manually in the ute or do you just leave it in performance mode?

Also, would there be any benefit in doing a little burnout before the run if your using sp9000s? Finally, with these tyres what pressure do you think would be suitable?

I use manual mode mate - how you been pal anyway??

If you dont have wheelspin, leave the tyres higher in pressure - it will take less power to turn them, resulting in better ET and higher MPH.

drop in dude, be good to see you again.

Chris

347_XR8 · 15-05-2006, 09:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris

Lukey - your car is a special case, as it has bags of torque, is lowered and is a manual. I'll start with the ride height.

When a car launches, it tries to twist the diff out of the car. The revs at which you launch will denote the rate of twist. having low stiff suspension will try to reverse the energy back, with the engine fighting back every step of the way, which brings on the tramp.

Raising the suspension and softening it a little will help out a mile - after doing a few meetings i would suggest re-doing your suspension to a more conservative approach height wise, and watch your 60 drop.

Achieving this will then see a need for a better tyre/clutch combo. Your tyre and clutch go hand in hand when searching for a launch. Too good in tyre choice with a stock clutch will see the clutch slip, whilst with a gun clutch and ordinary tyre will see plenty of smoke.

You need to make some choices regarding appearance (ride height) application of vehicle and driveability (clutch). I can loan you some tyres, but i would look at the first two issues first and foremost.

Chris

Cheers Chris. I am more then prepared to adjust the car to get the most out of it (and i don't care what my brother says

out:
).
With the ride height i was thinking about getting it raised around 1/4" to 1/2" and soften up the suspension. There is also another issue that people can;t see and that is the tailshaft. It is dangerouslly close to the body for drag racing, sot heres another reason to get the butt of the car up. A tailshaft loop is also being looked at in reagrds to that.
Clutch and tyres are also being looked at, however due to some finacial situations/and moving interstate I have just had to sell a set of M/T Street Radials. An upgraded clutch (Xtreme Clutch Pack) is also on the cards.

However it's all time and money. I'm just gonna take my time and make sure it's done properly. On saturday i'll chuck you the keys and you can show me a thing or two if you don't mind.
Once again, thanks for the advice mate!

XRCIST · 15-05-2006, 10:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris

I use manual mode mate - how you been pal anyway??

If you dont have wheelspin, leave the tyres higher in pressure - it will take less power to turn them, resulting in better ET and higher MPH.

drop in dude, be good to see you again.

Chris

Thanks for that Chris, appreciate it, this thread is a good idea :voldar02:

Yeah ive been alright, busy with school and stuff.
I want to talk to you about something, il send u a pm

Craig · 15-05-2006, 11:17 PM

Excuse me mister how do i make my BA XT V8 go a bit faster????

XRCIST · 15-05-2006, 11:26 PM

hahahhahahahaha

ratter · 15-05-2006, 11:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Craig@ACE

Excuse me mister how do i make my BA XT V8 go a bit faster????

Boss 290 :thebirds:

dute · 16-05-2006, 08:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Craig@ACE

Excuse me mister how do i make my BA XT V8 go a bit faster????

Push it off a cliff

:

Sorry Craig I had to do it....

347_XR8 · 16-05-2006, 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Craig@ACE

Excuse me mister how do i make my BA XT V8 go a bit faster????

NOS! :nutsycuck

gtfpv · 16-05-2006, 03:48 PM

i know bluepower racing recommend and have proven on the trck that a diffilipo full system is the go for best times .
why ?
tri y's are said to improve mid range torque over 4 into 1's.
on a standard car . which is better for acceleration and presumably quicker times ??
and does it change once the car is edited?? cheers .

Craig · 16-05-2006, 04:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dute

Push it off a cliff

:

Sorry Craig I had to do it....

You go first dute so i can see which lane is better......LOL.......

dute · 16-05-2006, 05:25 PM

No thanks Craig I dont like trying unproven things first, just in case I do the wrong thing

Redrum · 16-05-2006, 06:57 PM

Chris

This Saturday will be my first taking a car down the quarter. My road tryes are getting close to needing to be replaced. For launch would I better keeping nearly worn out tyres or buying some new ones?

I am aware you said you may be able to help me out with slicks but wish to do some runs road tyres first.

**Bluepower** · 16-05-2006, 07:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Redrum

Chris

This Saturday will be my first taking a car down the quarter. My road tryes are getting close to needing to be replaced. For launch would I better keeping nearly worn out tyres or buying some new ones?

I am aware you said you may be able to help me out with slicks but wish to do some runs road tyres first.

I'll lend you some roady's mate, no probs - and, its a good way to get a feel for your car on the 1/4.

AUSGTI · 16-05-2006, 09:14 PM

Hi Chris,

Just a quickie...

What would be a preferred Stall RPM when lining up at the lights.. I still have a factory stall in it, i use the Manual Mode in the auto, im changing at around 5500rpm, is this too high or just right, as im pretty much in the torque range still. I also do a little burnout to get excesive rocks, and cr*p off the tyres, i will try a lower pressure, and im currently running 32psi and find i get a little wheelspin off the line. (there road tyres) would 28psi make a difference, or try something lower.

Cheers.
Jason

Noddy · 16-05-2006, 09:57 PM

Chris i want to run the t3 at willowbank with some semi slick tyres, what tyres should i look at purchasing?

GRUNTA · 16-05-2006, 10:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gtfpv

i know bluepower racing recommend and have proven on the trck that a diffilipo full system is the go for best times .
why ?
tri y's are said to improve mid range torque over 4 into 1's.
on a standard car . which is better for acceleration and presumably quicker times ??
and does it change once the car is edited?? cheers .

"BUMP"

ratter · 16-05-2006, 11:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Noddy

Chris i want to run the t3 at willowbank with some semi slick tyres, what tyres should i look at purchasing?

Ok So I'm not Chris, but I have been running Mickey Thomson Street Radials on my ute, they are technically not legal on Victorian roads but are legal in the states where they come from.
I normally fit them at the track and I have run 12.23 using them.
Using them allows you to keep your normal street radial tyres on the front of your car.
Drags slicks are a cross ply tyre and if you race on them you must use a cross ply tyre on the front, which means more expense and most crossplys only come in 15" so they may not fit over some performance brake calipers.

Some people choose to race on their street rubber, but then make excuses for their low times, because of wheel spin. If you want results use the proper equipment for the job your doing, and in this case the street radials will do the job for you.

Mick

**Chris** · 16-05-2006, 11:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gtfpv

i know bluepower racing recommend and have proven on the trck that a diffilipo full system is the go for best times .
why ?
tri y's are said to improve mid range torque over 4 into 1's.
on a standard car . which is better for acceleration and presumably quicker times ??
and does it change once the car is edited?? cheers .

Firstly everyone, sorry about the late reply's, but bear with me, i will get to everyone.

The 1/78 difilippo is not a trick - just smart engineering. Modern engine building theory tells us to use the smallest primary to do the job, build up airspeed and increase scavenging.

So why go the 1 7/8??

Modern theory does go out the window when you have a unique, somewhat hybrid engine in a very narrow engine bay. The airspeed lost by going to a larger pipe is more than made up for by the larger cross sectional area at the head flange. If we were talking hot rods, where you could run a pipe straight off the head a few inches before it turns, you would be more confident with the smaller primary. However, the BA is very limited in its space, and loves the 1 7/8 pipe.

We notice that we run faster down the quarter than our closest rival in ET and MPH, and we run a 4:1 and they i believe are using a try y.

Thats good enough for me.

Editing the cars will make improvements over each mod, so it is recommended that a competent tuner aid you in editing each and every step of the way, to maximise efficiency.

**Chris** · 16-05-2006, 11:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by In2Xr8

Hi Chris,

Just a quickie...

What would be a preferred Stall RPM when lining up at the lights.. I still have a factory stall in it, i use the Manual Mode in the auto, im changing at around 5500rpm, is this too high or just right, as im pretty much in the torque range still. I also do a little burnout to get excesive rocks, and cr*p off the tyres, i will try a lower pressure, and im currently running 32psi and find i get a little wheelspin off the line. (there road tyres) would 28psi make a difference, or try something lower.

Cheers.
Jason

Jase, i would recommend using just standard "auto" mode, as when my car was in the same "trim" as yours, it seemed to work the best.

As for the launch, be wary of holding the ION 4 spd on "stall" for too long, as they rapidly build up temperature.

Tyres, well all different cars with different setups require differing remedies, but i remember kwinana to have a nice startline. I would agree and say persist with 28-32psi, see what works, maybe avoid excessive burnouts, maybe 1st, then 2nd until you see the "haze" (that is, haze, not cloud), then let the car roll forward with your foot nearly right off the gas until you feel the tyres bite with a little screech. Guys around here manage 60's in the 2.0's using this method.

Err on the side of more than less PSI, as a flatter tyre will take more HP to turn.

**Chris** · 16-05-2006, 11:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Noddy

Chris i want to run the t3 at willowbank with some semi slick tyres, what tyres should i look at purchasing?

Hey bro, hows things?

Mate, I think you can get a 15" rim on the back, check out a 235/15 MT et street. I would keep the pressure high, and the burnout big.
start at 22psi and go down in 2psi increments, usually 18 is king.

NOTE - as a matter of interest, always where convenient, check your pressure before your run AND after. Much to be learned here, about what variables different cars, setups and tracks like.

Speak soon man,

Chris

**Chris** · 16-05-2006, 11:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Noddy

Chris i want to run the t3 at willowbank with some semi slick tyres, what tyres should i look at purchasing?

Sorry mate, one more thing - check out Rocket in sydney for the price - if you dont get looked after, give me a holler, i'm happy to make a phone call for you.

DABOSS · 16-05-2006, 11:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Craig@ACE

Excuse me mister how do i make my BA XT V8 go a bit faster????

Put an Auto into craig, Then take the rear part of the exhuast off and drive it down melton Rd. :evilsasmo

Noddy · 16-05-2006, 11:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ratter

Ok So I'm not Chris, but I have been running Mickey Thomson Street Radials on my ute, they are technically not legal on Victorian roads but are legal in the states where they come from.
I normally fit them at the track and I have run 12.23 using them.
Using them allows you to keep your normal street radial tyres on the front of your car.
Drags slicks are a cross ply tyre and if you race on them you must use a cross ply tyre on the front, which means more expense and most crossplys only come in 15" so they may not fit over some performance brake calipers.

Some people choose to race on their street rubber, but then make excuses for their low times, because of wheel spin. If you want results use the proper equipment for the job your doing, and in this case the street radials will do the job for you.

Mick

What sizes can you get the mickey t in?

Noddy · 16-05-2006, 11:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris

Hey bro, hows things?

Mate, I think you can get a 15" rim on the back, check out a 235/15 MT et street. I would keep the pressure high, and the burnout big.
start at 22psi and go down in 2psi increments, usually 18 is king.

NOTE - as a matter of interest, always where convenient, check your pressure before your run AND after. Much to be learned here, about what variables different cars, setups and tracks like.

Speak soon man,

Chris

thanks buddy

cheers,

Matt.