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Old 28-08-2009, 08:01 PM   #1
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Default LS-LV Focus Duratec-HE 2L Oil Change Thread

Need to do an oil change on my sister's 2006 LS Focus (2.0L Duratec petrol engine). Thought it would be good to start a thread about this which contains all relevant information for such an oil change.

Oil
5W-30 oil is stated in the owner's manual
Most people seem to go for Castrol Edge 5W-30 on this forum
But i might try Penrite HPR 5W-40 as i've had good experiences with this oil before

Oil Filter
Ryco part number Z418
Funnily enough the Ryco site only has an oil filter listing for build date 05/05 -06/07 (LS model)
Does the LT model use a different filter as i'll be doing an oil change on our 2008 LT Focus soon as well

Sump Drain Bolt
Remember reading somewhere the sump drain bolt is a 13mm bolt
Can anyone confirm this?

Will update this thread when i've done the oil change (most likely next weekend). Will take some pics along the way as well
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Old 28-08-2009, 09:36 PM   #2
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Mobil 1 also do a 5W-30 oil now, which is an excellent oil, full synthetic.

Good luck with the oil change and i'm looking forward to the pics.
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Old 29-08-2009, 07:41 PM   #3
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I just use Nulon 10W-40 full syn and a the ryco filter.

I'm sure it's a 13mm sump plug.

It's a piece of p_ss to do, just take your time.
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Old 30-08-2009, 01:22 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ivorya

I just use Nulon 10W-40 full syn and a the ryco filter.

I'm sure it's a 13mm sump plug.

It's a piece of p_ss to do, just take your time.
Yeh i'm not worried about changing the oil as i already do oil changes on my SS. Just wanted to make sure i had the oil, filter and sump drain bolt specs correct and to post them in one location for everyone's benefit
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Old 30-08-2009, 04:53 PM   #5
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I did the 90,000 Km oil change today. It is possibly the easiest car to work on once the sump guard is removed... Actually it's really an aero aid not a sump guard. Oil filter is at hand, drain bolt is easy to get to and a good design with a built in O ring. Only issue I had is getting it up the ramps, being a Zetec it fouls the ramp on the bumper chin. Just ran the fronts up on 2" blocks fist then on to the ramps.

The car continues to impress even after 3 years.

BTW I had new tyres put on during the week too, went for 215 / 45 / 17 because they were cheaper.
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Old 30-08-2009, 07:54 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by More revs
The car continues to impress even after 3 years.

BTW I had new tyres put on during the week too, went for 215 / 45 / 17 because they were cheaper.
what tyres did you get? Were they load rated? I went with Potenza RE001s the week before last, but there wasnt much around in the 205/50R17 size at 93W.
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Old 30-08-2009, 09:57 PM   #7
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Sump plug is 1/2 inch bolt
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Old 30-08-2009, 10:01 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackLS

Sump plug is 1/2 inch bolt
So just about 13mm good to get confirmation
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Old 30-08-2009, 10:13 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mohit
So just about 13mm good to get confirmation
*Awaits future thread asking advice on a stripped sump bolt* :P
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Old 31-08-2009, 09:13 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrisVegas
what tyres did you get? Were they load rated? I went with Potenza RE001s the week before last, but there wasnt much around in the 205/50R17 size at 93W.
Bridgstone turanza or something similar. Nice and quiet but turn in isn't as sharp as the whatever was on before.

They do look a little undersize too but at $195 each driveaway I'm not complaining.
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Old 31-08-2009, 04:04 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackLS
*Awaits future thread asking advice on a stripped sump bolt* :P

Just order a new one.... only a couple of $$$
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Old 31-08-2009, 04:31 PM   #12
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BTW what is the oil capacity on the LS Duratec?

I just dumped all 5l in coz I needed the container for the old oil...

whoops..
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Old 31-08-2009, 05:33 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ivorya
Just order a new one.... only a couple of $$$
I'd rather use the right size spanner for free :P
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Old 31-08-2009, 05:35 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by More revs
BTW what is the oil capacity on the LS Duratec?

I just dumped all 5l in coz I needed the container for the old oil...

whoops..
Sump and filter change I use a whole bottle of Castrol Edge plus another 500-750ml from a 1L bottle. Dead on the full mark
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Last edited by BlackLS; 31-08-2009 at 05:40 PM.
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Old 31-08-2009, 11:21 PM   #15
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Just a few comments...

Oil - make sure that it meets the Ford spec for the Focus. And I'd stick with 5W-30, Castrol Edge or fully synthetic if you can afford it.

Filter - I'd probably use a Ford filter, unless you can get a good quality US filter such as Purolator. (NOT Fram!)
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Old 06-09-2009, 04:34 PM   #16
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Hereís the oil change write up iíd promised with pics. This is the way i change oil on all our cars. Your way may differ slightly.
I will not be held responsible for any loss of blood, life or virginity that may arise from you following these steps :P
If youíre uncomfortable doing an oil change, get a mechanic to do it for you.

Parts needed:
- Oil (I used Penrite HPR 5 5W-40)
- Oil filter (I used Ryco Z418)
- Oil filter wrench
- Oil drain pan
- 13mm spanner and socket/wrench
- Funnel
- Standard Focus jack
- Hydraulic trolley jack (optional)
- Jack stands
- Wheel chocks or bricks
- Rags
- Permanent marker (optional)
- Garage creeper (optional)

STEP 1
Make sure engine is warm, as warm oil drains quicker than cold oil
If engine is cold take it for a 10 min drive
After the 10 min drive turn off engine and let the car sit for 30 mins
This will ensure the engine is cool enough to work on and the oil drains back into the sump

STEP 2
Park car on a flat level surface
Chock the rear wheels
Jack the car up on jack stands
Make sure car is securely positioned on the jack stands
You donít want the car falling on you when youíre under it!





This pic shows the sump drain plug (yellow arrow) and the oil filter (red arrow)



The drain plug faces the rear of the car while the filter faces the front of the car

STEP 3
Remove the engine cover (pull straight up)
Remove the oil filler cap
Get under the car on a garage creeper (optional)
Otherwise just get under the car on your back

STEP 4
Position oil drain pan under the oil sump
Oil will be hot and rush out quickly so be ready for this!
Undo oil sump drain plug anti-clockwise with a 13mm spanner and/or socket





Let oil drain out of sump (I let it drain for 15 mins)





STEP 5
Position oil drain pan under the oil filter
Remove oil filter anti-clockwise



As you loosen the filter, oil will pour out from the top of the filter



There will still be oil in the filter so be careful not to tip it sideways when you have spun it off completely and are removing it from the engine block
Let oil drain out of oil filter opening into the drain pan for a few mins



Make sure the rubber seal from the old filter is not attached to the engine block (remove if it still is)

Here's what you've just drained out of your engine, dirty old oil (just under 10,000km old in the case of this car)



STEP 6
Clean area around drain plug hole in the oil sump
Screw drain plug back into the sump and finger tighten
Do up drain plug with spanner or socket but not too tight so that itís easy to remove next time

STEP 7
Mark the date of the oil change and the odometer reading on new oil filter with a permanent marker (optional)
Mark the direction of oil filter removal (anti-clockwise) with an arrow on new filter with a permanent marker (optional)



Pour some of the new oil into the new filter
Run a smear of oil around the rubber seal of the new filter with your finger



Screw the new filter onto the engine block clockwise
Make sure itís only hand tight so itís easy to remove next time



STEP 8
Take funnel and fill the engine with new oil (about 4L)



Lower car off the jack stands back onto the ground
Now that the car is on level ground check the sump oil level and top off until it reaches the full mark on the dip stick
I always put a couple of hundred milliliters extra as all engines consume some oil over time
Replace the oil filler cap
Run the engine for a minute, making sure the oil pressure light in the dash goes off as per normal
Turn off the engine after a minute and check the areas around the sump drain plug and oil filter for leaks
If leaks are present clean off and rectify as needed

STEP 9
Replace the engine cover
Clean up and put all your tools away
Put old oil into new oil container (later on dispose off in an appropriate manner without harming the environment)

STEP 10
Take car for a test drive
When back from test drive check again for leaks
After letting car sit for a while, check oil level once again for peace of mind, and top up if required
Congratulations you have just changed the oil and filter on your Focus
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Old 06-09-2009, 04:55 PM   #17
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Some random oil change info

Oil Sump Drain Plug

Someone mentioned earlier in the thread that the sump drain plug is a 1/2" (12.7mm) bolt. The above oil change was done on my sister's 2006 LS Focus. I found it impossible to fit a 1/2" socket onto the sump bolt. A 1/2" spanner just got on but was a very tight fit. The 13mm socket i ended up using was a smidge too big for the bolt but got it off in the end no sweat.

Out of interest i was able to fit the 1/2" socket and spanner onto the sump drain plug of my mum's 2008 LT Focus without any issues.


Oil Filter Comparison

The Ford oil filter is a Motorcraft AFL4
The aftermarket one i used is a Ryco Z418

As you can see from this pic the Motorcraft filter is a bit taller than the Ryco one.



The only reason i can think of why the Motorcraft filter would be larger is due to the 15,000km oil change intervals. Since i change the oil every 7,500km this is a non issue for me.

The Ryco website only lists an oil filter for the LS Focus and not the LT Focus. I checked the filter on my mum's LT Focus and it's the same Motorcraft AFL4 as used on my sister's LS Focus. So a Ryco Z418 will fit the LT Focus as well. Not sure about the LV Focus but i presume it will be the same, at least for the 2.0L Duratec petrol engine.


Oil Filter Removal

If you are unable to remove the oil filter off your car by hand, use the filter wrench to loosen it. If the filter is still on too tight, hammer a flat blade screw driver into the filter body. Once securely in, use the screw driver handle to push/pull the filter anti-clockwise until its loose.

Last edited by mohit; 06-09-2009 at 05:09 PM.
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Old 07-09-2009, 07:38 PM   #18
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Any reason for the preference of the 5W-40 over the recommended 5W-30?

Thanks for the pics mate.
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Old 07-09-2009, 07:52 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DZFord

Any reason for the preference of the 5W-40 over the recommended 5W-30?

Thanks for the pics mate.
5W-30 is too thin for my liking. Also a fan of Penrite oils never had any issues with them.
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Old 08-09-2009, 09:13 AM   #20
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Default Flushing

Flushing when you change oil may be something to consider, especially when the vehicle is over 80,000 klms.

Flushing instructions here.

Just a thought.

Cheers

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Old 08-09-2009, 05:24 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mohit
5W-30 is too thin for my liking. Also a fan of Penrite oils never had any issues with them.
Best you inform the engineers that the oil is to thin.
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Old 08-09-2009, 05:39 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TITO

Best you inform the engineers that the oil is to thin.
No thanks i'll let a troll like you do it
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Old 08-09-2009, 05:50 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by More revs

BTW what is the oil capacity on the LS Duratec?

I just dumped all 5l in coz I needed the container for the old oil...

whoops..
The owner's manual states 4.6L with filter
I put in about 4.8L with filter
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Old 09-09-2009, 07:01 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mainlube
Flushing when you change oil may be something to consider, especially when the vehicle is over 80,000 klms.

Flushing instructions here.

Just a thought.

Cheers

Steve
Regular oil changes, say around the 6 to 7000k even ten would cancel the need to flush the engine at all even at 200,000k the engine block walls and the outside of the crank, bottom of the sump would be very clean.
If you really want to notice a differance in performance have a upper cylinder carbon clean this will do the injectors, ports, valves and combustion chambers.
The cars fuel lines at the engine side are conected to a machine that pumps a cleaner fluid with your fuel while the engine is running. Worth doing at the 15 to 20,000k.
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Old 15-09-2009, 03:36 AM   #25
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Thanks for the post, Mohit. Just a few comments:
  • I wouldn't recommend using a screwdriver to remove a stuck filter. I did this once and STILL couldn't get the filter off. There are prong-type filter removal tools that work well when a Ford tech doesn't oil the filter seal and then over tightens the filter! (None of my strap wrenches could get it off.)
  • Leave the oil to drain as long as possible. Overnight is good if you're not in a hurry. You'll be surprised how much more dirty oil drains out if you do this.
  • Provided you use the correct oil, you really don't need to change the oil every 7,500 km unless you meet the "severe service" criteria in the service book. It's completely a matter of personal preference of course, but oils that meet the Ford spec are designed for a 20,000 km drain interval. I'm guessing that Ford Australia have specified 15,000 kms because of the high temperatures in Oz compared with Europe.
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Old 15-09-2009, 04:50 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NZ XR6
  • I wouldn't recommend using a screwdriver to remove a stuck filter. I did this once and STILL couldn't get the filter off. There are prong-type filter removal tools that work well when a Ford tech doesn't oil the filter seal and then over tightens the filter! (None of my strap wrenches could get it off.)
  • Leave the oil to drain as long as possible. Overnight is good if you're not in a hurry. You'll be surprised how much more dirty oil drains out if you do this.
  • Provided you use the correct oil, you really don't need to change the oil every 7,500 km unless you meet the "severe service" criteria in the service book. It's completely a matter of personal preference of course, but oils that meet the Ford spec are designed for a 20,000 km drain interval. I'm guessing that Ford Australia have specified 15,000 kms because of the high temperatures in Oz compared with Europe.
I've seen the prong type filter removal tool before but instead of paying for one if not needed, might as well use the screw driver + hammer method for free, as it's worked well for me in the past without any issues (apart from getting a lot of oil on your hand).

I would say most daily driving duties, especially short drives and stop start driving would fall under "severe service". Personally for me 15K km oil change intervals are too long which is why i change the oil every 7.5K km but as you said it comes down to personal preference.
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Old 16-09-2009, 10:20 AM   #27
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Went to my local ford dealer in epping melb and asked if I could use my own oil, I wanted to use a better quality in my TDCi PENRITE DEISEL, manager said if they did that engine would loose its waranty????????
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Old 19-09-2009, 08:58 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elgreko

Went to my local ford dealer in epping melb and asked if I could use my own oil, I wanted to use a better quality in my TDCi PENRITE DEISEL, manager said if they did that engine would loose its waranty????????
That's BS. As long as the oil you want to use matches the specs of the recommended oil in your owner's manual it won't void your warranty. That dealership just wants to charge you for the oil they use.
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Old 20-09-2009, 09:01 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elgreko
Went to my local ford dealer in epping melb and asked if I could use my own oil, I wanted to use a better quality in my TDCi PENRITE DEISEL, manager said if they did that engine would loose its waranty????????
Well maybe. Just had a look at the Penrite website which recommends HPR Diesel 5. However, it also says that cars with a DPF, which the TDCi has, should use a different oil. A bit confusing really.

Mohit is correct; if the oil meets the Ford spec for your car, then it will not void the engine warranty. But then the corollary is also true - if it meets the Ford spec, then it should be fine for your engine. Although from experience, I certainly wouldn't rely on your dealer to use the correct oil - ask them exactly which oil they will use in your car and check that it meets the spec in your handbook.
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Old 25-09-2009, 10:53 AM   #30
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I suspect the MY08 TDCI did not have a Particulate filter but the later ones do have them, hence the comment for the iols.
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