Power window upgrade

[lofty]

Howdy. Did AU sedans with power windows all have a window lock button? Did ANY utes come with a lock button? I'm assembling the bits to convert the ute, but the door trims I got from an XR6 ute have no lock button. I want to be the one in control of the passenger window, not the dog! So I'm wondering what my options are. I guess I could dodgy up a switch to cut the power to that side. Be nice to keep it looking factory though.

[Mr Hardware]

the 4-door power windows setup (Fairmonts, Fairlanes, AUII+ Futuras & OPT20s) did have a lock button, but the regular ones did not. And there's nothing to stop you from rigging up a switch

[lofty]

I found a pic of the premo unit on ebay. Probably not worth trying to retrofit the factory lock button. I'll just look for a suitable rocker switch. Thanks Mr H.

[bodes-sh]

there'd be no point in the factory button anyway, it only locks out the rear passenger windows on sedans and wagons, the front passenger window still works with the switch locked...

[illusivedreams]

What Parts are required for the converion,
I would love to do my ute as well.
What price did you pay for the parts.

[Mr Hardware]

Originally Posted by bodes-sh

there'd be no point in the factory button anyway, it only locks out the rear passenger windows on sedans and wagons, the front passenger window still works with the switch locked...

I did not know that. Huh. I suppose i've never tried. Nor locked the windows, nor needed to. Kinda like my child locks on my rear doors, for all i know they don't work, or do work? I have no idea.

[lofty]

Originally Posted by illusivedreams

What Parts are required for the converion,
I would love to do my ute as well.
What price did you pay for the parts.

Pair of door trims with switches: $100
Pair of regulators: $100
Pair of door looms: $37

All from ebay, over a period of time, and all 2nd hand. I believe it can be done without the factory looms, but I thought it was worth another $40 to make it easy & neat. Prices are without postage.

I still have to find a pair of inner door handles and a door lock button in black, but that's my fault for putting black door trims into a grey interior. I think it will look ok though, as I've used black mats & seat covers <shrug>.

[lofty]

What does it mean when your window regulator makes a loud clunk as it tops out? You can avoid it if you let the button go quick enough, but it doesn't seem right to me. Are there any adjustments? Hope I haven't bought a dud.

[Mr Hardware]

wait, do you mean when your windows go down or up do you hear the thud?
mine thuds on landing down

[lofty]

Up only. Drivers side anyway. Haven't got the passenger one in yet.

[bodes-sh]

dunno mate, mine don't make any sound even with the auto down on the driver's side...

[MaTTe]

has the door got an adjustment for the bolts to regulate where the window sits? you may have the mechanism sitting too high up so it has to hit the end of travel and use the over current to shut off the motor.

As has been said, thelockout button will not lock out the front passenger window, your best options are to install a rocker switch that will cut power to the button, or to have the switch on the passenger door unplugged, so that the drivers door is the only switch that'll operate the window..
a bit of food for thought.

[lofty]

Well I have power windows. :
It took me two solid days. My hands hurt, my back aches, I'm totally drained. If I'd known how hard it would be I probably wouldn't have started.

But I cannot tell you how much I love my ute right now. :

<voice: "Homer Simpson"> Window goes up, window goes down. Window goes up........</voice>

[bodes-sh]

lol, at least yours is only a ute. doing a 4 window conversion on a sedan with home made wiring is worse... especially getting it through the dog leg thing on the back doors...

but, good job, i'm glad it works

[TK-421]

Originally Posted by lofty

Well I have power windows. :
It took me two solid days. My hands hurt, my back aches, I'm totally drained. If I'd known how hard it would be I probably wouldn't have started.

But I cannot tell you how much I love my ute right now. :

<voice: "Homer Simpson"> Window goes up, window goes down. Window goes up........</voice>

Good to hear mate! i'm just about to do the same conversion but am unsure how to work the wiring, any tips on how you setup the wiring?

glenn

[lofty]

EF4.0, basically you need to run a power feed from the fuse panel into each door. Then you need a pair of wires that connect the passenger switch on the driver's side to the passenger's switch. If you see what I mean. That's the simple way. I'll see if I can put together a bit of a how-to. How soon are you starting? I Might need a few days.

Bodes-sh, do you need to swap the BEM? I read somewhere you'll blow something up if you don't fit one from a 4 door power window model. Man I do not envy you though. However, it would be easier if you've done it once.

MaTTe, thanks, I got the lockout switch sussed. Works beaut.

[TK-421]

Originally Posted by lofty

EF4.0, basically you need to run a power feed from the fuse panel into each door. Then you need a pair of wires that connect the passenger switch on the driver's side to the passenger's switch. If you see what I mean. That's the simple way. I'll see if I can put together a bit of a how-to. How soon are you starting? I Might need a few days.

i'm not in a hurry, would appreciate a how to if possible.

[bodes-sh]

nah i didn't change the bem. i'm not running through it tho, i got a timed relay setup from jaycar, was about $30 i think and i have it set for 30 secs so when i turn the key off i can run the windows for 30 secs before the power cuts out. i did have it hard wires in the beginning so you could use them without the key, but didn't like that idea.

the standard bem didn't even run the windows. there is an output on the back of the fuse panel that is for them, but because mine never had front power ones the bem wasn't set up for it...

[Mr Hardware]

i did have it hard wires in the beginning so you could use them without the key, but didn't like that idea.

what, like wind up windows?

[lofty]

Originally Posted by bodes-sh

nah i didn't change the bem. i'm not running through it tho, i got a timed relay setup from jaycar, was about $30 i think and i have it set for 30 secs so when i turn the key off i can run the windows for 30 secs before the power cuts out. i did have it hard wires in the beginning so you could use them without the key, but didn't like that idea.

the standard bem didn't even run the windows. there is an output on the back of the fuse panel that is for them, but because mine never had front power ones the bem wasn't set up for it...

That's interesting. My low series(?) AUIII BEM runs the window relay with the 45 sec delay. Will have to note that difference in my how-to. The delay cuts to 10 sec once a door is opened. In view of my excitable mutt I think I'd prefer it instant off. Or maybe 5 sec.

[lofty]

Ok I'm working on the text for my how-to and there's one section I'm not happy with, about moving the ECU. I did do some searching but couldn't find anything. I would appreciate any input or links to make this section more ... convincing. Here is my draft:

The passenger door is virtually identical. The difference is that to gain access to the loom connector inside the pillar, you need to move the ECU out of the way. (Disconnect the battery if you haven't already.) I know there are at least two different brackets for these. If you have the narrow strap type held by a screw, you're lucky. Mine was a large affair, designed to foul the dash when you try to swing it aside. But first you have to get it open. I was lucky in that my LPG fitter had already butchered mine so I just had to undo a screw. I'm guessing it had two of those nasty big rivets like the doors. Looks like a job for Mr Angle Grinder, some damp rags and a LOT of care. If someone has a better way please speak up. Once you have the fasteners off, you have to swing the bracket away. If it fouls the dash like mine, be advised that no amount of wriggling and swearing helped, and it was brute force that won the day. Then you can wriggle the ECU out a bit and undo the screw at the inner bottom of the bracket. Then you have SOME chance of lifting the bracket 'door' off it's hinges. Then you can pull the ECU away to the right and the body of the bracket should lift up and away from the pillar. Then it will be very easy to see the door loom connector directly above. Once you have that bracket out, "off with its head!" [PIC]

[bodes-sh]

far out, mine is an au1, so it is obviously different. i had the old e series style one, just a small screw and narrow strap, just undid the screw and shifted it out of the way...

i'm not sure why mine wouldn't work, but it is a feb 99 au1, so way before the update model came out... the relay setup i used though you can adjust, i think anything from 1 second up to 10 min, so i have a hell of a range.. in another thread someone suggested using the power feed for the boot release (in a sedan obviously) as it times out after about 7 minutes after ignition off, but i reckon that's too long...

yes mr hardware, basically open the door, press the switch and you could use the windows.

[lofty]

How to fit power windows to an AU (front only)


Article relocated to the Tech portal HERE

[bodes-sh]

good stuff. very well done, i reckon it should help a few people. even though they are a pain, you can drill those rivets out. i drilled mine out, you just need to use a fairly small drill bit and go in at an angle to the centre bit that pokes up. then go to a bigger bit to get most of the internals out. then you can wiggle the bracket and it will pull the rivets out of the doors. i do hate them though, they are a total pain.

the only other thing i noticed was, i guess you didn't get them, but the person i got my door trims off gave me the bolts for them too. there was one that went just above and in front of the top of the handle, although my car didn't have a thread in the hole the bolt was sort of self tapping, i just screwed it in and out slowly until it cut a thread for it. but, au3's may be different and i did mine quite a while ago so i can't quite remember exactly.

as for the circuit breaker, i just used a 30a fuse and it is holding up fine running both fronts together (haven't got enough fingers to do the rears too, lol) so, for anyone that doesn't have the breaker, that's another option.

you may require more than lemonade after you have finished it though

[lofty]

Thanks bodes-sh. That's exactly the sort of info I was hoping to flush out.

[TK-421]

Hey Lofty, that is excellent work! your doco gives me the confidence to give it a try, thanks for your time and effort champ!

[Rapps]

Well done!!! The best way to remove rivet is to use a center punch on the steel insert, that will pop it through the alloy and leave a small hole, then simplt drill out remainder of allot rivet.

[parkerhawkins]

Thanks for the guide Lofty.

Just completed my power window upgrade on my XL AU2 ute. Working perfectly. Took about 6 Hours $205 for all parts.

[lofty]

I've had a request for the missing pictures, which I provided by email. I will send them to anyone who wants them, but I would prefer to send them to one person who can host them and link here. I don't have a hosting account any more and don't really want one.

[foxtrot3]

Originally Posted by lofty

I've had a request for the missing pictures, which I provided by email. I will send them to anyone who wants them, but I would prefer to send them to one person who can host them and link here. I don't have a hosting account any more and don't really want one.

Hi. Send a PM off to russellw with the photos and let him perform his magic. Cheers MD