free advice on the 83-87 telstar - Page 6

dirty hands · 17-11-2007, 09:20 AM

I have a 1.3 automatic injected and I get 300km city driving

400 /tank is good
vippin is the laser guru pm him for a second opinion

gwak2007 · 22-11-2007, 10:29 PM

Thanks dirty will try vippin.

TelStarlight · 19-12-2007, 03:18 PM

Hey Dirty Hands,

thanks in advance... I have two 84 Telstars both still driving quite well even though they've done about 265k each. (One 2.0 Auto no air, no power anything. The other, 2.0 Manual, aircon etc)

Problem: They both stink! Excessive exhaust fumes come in through the windows (when open), especially when at the lights, but even when driving. Had multiple mechanics look them over, can't seem to find anything wrong with them.

We have been using regular unleaded for ages without problems, occasionally use 95 or 98 unleaded for better mileage.

Is there something about this model that is prone to this kind of problem?

They don't blow smoke (expect for little bit at start or if you really floor it taking off, but even then, not too bad)

dirty hands · 19-12-2007, 05:31 PM

fit a catalytic converter if you use unleaded

that may help

the valve stem seals have hardened they can be replaced without removing the head(smoke on start up)

recheck all the antipollution vaccume lines and valves

also once the charcole canister fills up it no longer absorbes the fumes from the engine
so replace that with one that fits if original cant be found

TelStarlight · 20-12-2007, 11:09 AM

Thanks again for your help dirty hands.

I'm not mechanically minded, what kind of cost do you think I'd be looking at to get a catalytic converter added? (I had no idea that they didn't have them!)
How much to replace the charcoal canister?

dirty hands · 20-12-2007, 04:27 PM

catalytic converters not mandatory try approx $100 fitted

see if you can pick up a charcole canister at a wrecker

clean out the pvc valve (crankcase venitlation valve ) on the rocker cover

shellz82 · 26-12-2007, 09:26 PM

Hey,
I have an 84 kb ford laser that for the past 3 days has been overheating on me after driving short distances. Yesterday i had been driving for 20 mins, temp gage went sky hi and as i went to pull up at a set of traffic lights my car died. Pull over to the side of the road and there was a heap of oil on the road. Admitadly i did over fill the oil by accident after letting it get very low cause my oil light isnt registering properly.
Any help or ideas as to what is wrong?? Please?

dirty hands · 27-12-2007, 01:01 AM

how much smoke is the motor blowing /kms traveled/
if left you may need a second motor

check list

stuck thermomostat - replace
cooling fans not working (electrical fault or fuse )
clogged radiator -flush

low oil pressure
fix as many leaks as possible
change oil filter
change the oil sender switch

check compression in cylinders and look for water in the oil look for
(blown head gasket /water in the oil /warped head/valve stem guides)

next is worse have an oil pressure reading taken
if low it may be a oil pump a clogged pick up filter in sump or worn bearings needing an engine rebuilt of some kind

njla · 01-01-2008, 01:50 PM

Hey,

My girlfriend has a 1987 telstar ghia with the 2.0 engine and auto trans. Recently we haven't been able to start the car after long trips or on hot days. THe starter just won't turn over, we wait ahlf an hour and then we're off again.
However today we started it and the starter kept going, even when the key was in off position. I'm guessing the start is stuffed, are the easy to replace/cheap? I'm pretty mechanically minded but I haven't worked on the little motors much.
Thanks in advance

Nath

dirty hands · 02-01-2008, 10:14 PM

first check the wire running from the positive terminal to the starter

make sure the wire is secure and corrosion free both ends

also look at the smaller ignition wire ..make sure it is tight to its push on

next check the alternator is charging

this may be a ignition key problem

if the starter turns over the solenoid must be ok

if it clicks or there are other noises from the starter

remove it and have it looked at or get a spare from a wrecker

if the car is an auto there is a vaccume device that fills with auto oil/or engine oil deposits and gives trouble you can replace that

njla · 03-01-2008, 10:44 PM

Thanks dirty hands, i'll check them first thing. Battery is fully charged no prob there.
I just tried again to start it, the starter turns over but the engien fails to start. when it finishs cranking the starter makes a very audible click and the tacho goes from 0 to 8k then back again, strange.
THe problem keeps changing every day. its been resonably warm here so i thought it might be the vapour lock problem as described in your previous posts.

dirty hands · 03-01-2008, 11:10 PM

ok take out the starter
if you know how to pull one apart have a look at the brushes

or just get one from a wrecker you can use a mazda 626 starter of a 2 ltr

hydrulictelstar · 05-01-2008, 12:25 AM

hey i have a 1985 ford telstar tx5 turbo as now i know you know nothing about turbo but this is a aircon problem really

anyways so when i turn the a/c on the rpm drops down and the car vibrates what will be the cause of that and allso to is the the 1988 ford laser ke wheel hub + disc brake compatiable with the 1985 ford telstar tx5 as turbo as i got quoted to machine my disc a $150 a side as they need to be machined on the car as the disc are pressed in on the wheel hub

hydrulictelstar · 05-01-2008, 12:53 AM

i bought a air/fuel ratio gauge i hooked it up right and the instructions say to the o2 sensor *o2 sensor is brand new bty*now what i dont under stand is that when coming to a stop say at the lights and then go again the engine feels like it is back fireing but it only does that when the air/fuel ratio gauge is hooked up and then it drives normal allmost like its got a huge flat spot

dirty hands · 05-01-2008, 01:13 AM

air con could be a vaccume problem or adjust the idle up
only other possible is a aircon system leak ..is it cold

dont know about the front rotors- you have to check/count the splines on the CV drive shafts they may be different

I know of the air fuel ratio guages ... is it earthed properly and do the led lights work or needle move as you rev
just one idea
http://autospeed.com/cms/A_0217/article.html

if it is efi the airflow meter and TPS will need looking at

is this one an auto or manual gearbox

hydrulictelstar · 05-01-2008, 01:46 AM

i checked the idle up on the left side and nothing happen but on the right side there is other screw the same and that did turn the revs up but the rpm still droped and the air fuel ratio gauge it is earthed properly and the led lights do work but nothing happens when reving it and it s a 1985 ford telstar tx5 as turbo 5 speed manual only pussy's drive auto but my apexi turbo timer the air/fuel ratio reads 1.55 to2.00 even thow that part isent connected and allso to verfiy aswell my exhuast does have smelly fumes like it is running really rich should i take it in for a majour service as i know it is over due for one

dirty hands · 05-01-2008, 10:08 AM

aircon rpm control runs through the engine management computer
resetting the tps should fix that (next service )
the dissy module sends the rpms
the ox sensor usually runs low volts and is best on highway runs ..not city driving
so my best guess is that unit is working

runing rich ...how old is your cat converter
and at the tune make sure they check the engine management diagnostics

hydrulictelstar · 05-01-2008, 11:06 AM

cat converter looks like its original and how do i go about resetting the tps what ever that is

dirty hands · 06-01-2008, 01:47 AM

TPS throttle position sensor

black unit with a few wires near the throttle body

a volt meter and paper clips

turn ign to on pos
get a reading of say .5 volts
that would be close

if you get a higher reading you are on the wrong wires

emmtee83 · 11-01-2008, 08:51 PM

hey dirty hands

can you tell me if the telstar hand brake is compatible with the '92 TX3 Turbo? I have snapped the front piece of the 3 piece assembly....the one from the handbrake lever on the inside of the car.

Also how do I go about changing it? Thanks

dirty hands · 12-01-2008, 03:08 PM

tx3 is the laser so no it probably wont have the same mounting bolts

the hand brake is bolted on to the floor with a few bolts
you have to undo the centre console then slacken off the handbrake cables
replace the handbrake unit (buy one from a ford wrecker wont be too much )
then refit the cables ( 5 to 7 clicks or till the handbrake holds )
done

emmtee83 · 12-01-2008, 04:52 PM

Thanks mate. Much appreciated.

emmtee83 · 12-01-2008, 05:31 PM

oh, just while i'm on, today i was cruisin around when all of a sudden i heard this loud clanking from under the hood. sounds like a chunk of metal pinging around a 44 gallon drum....

only happens when i accelerate/let the clutch out on 1st gear, sometimes happens for 2nd too. Has my clutch gone? clutch plate missing teeth? please help!!

i probably should add that lately i've been feeling a small jolt when trying to take off in first, the instant i try to let out the clutch. not smoothly taking off. perhaps not grabbing the gear properly??? i dunno....

dirty hands · 12-01-2008, 08:14 PM

dont drive the car much furthur till you inspect
remove the small metal inspection plate between the gearbox and the motor sump
you may have a loose bolt inside the bell housing

while the inspection plate is off rotate the motor and tighten all the clutch plate bolts

clutch plate may have broken one of the pressure plates --running off the throw out bearing .this would make gear changing difficult

in search type in clutch or Pressure plate
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/

find a image off the web of a clutch plate and that will give you an idea

emmtee83 · 12-01-2008, 11:12 PM

no trouble at all with changing gear, the clutch hasn't lost any pressure at all.....aside from the initial taking-off, i have no trouble with clutch/trans....

after driving it a little today i'm beginning to think it's the drive shaft/cv's....would i be far off? clicks when taking off, jolts the car slightly at the same time....only ever happens at low speed....

dirty hands · 13-01-2008, 12:17 AM

all about CVs
Part one general information
http://www.aa1car.com/library/cvjoint1.htm

Part two faults and diagnosis http://www.aa1car.com/library/cvjoint2.htm

usually just buy an exchange CV joint and have the supplier fit it

emmtee83 · 13-01-2008, 02:14 PM

Thanks for that. The symptoms on that website match my problem....

replacing CV/driveshaft is a lot cheaper than clutch/trans anyway!

dirty hands · 29-02-2008, 11:28 PM

bump ..no sticky

Tommyau · 05-03-2008, 12:24 PM

By reading previous posts, Ive gathered the firing order for A Ford Telstar 1984 2 Litre manual is 1 3 4 2. What Im also wondeing is, does the sequence of order on the distributor run clockwise, and how do I find out where the plug lead from from No1 on engine goes to on distributor? so on, so on, Is there a mark on dis cap? Thankyou

dirty hands · 06-03-2008, 01:52 AM

number one Cyl is nearest the timing pully and drive belts
rotate the motor till you feel the air compressing in number one cyl

if you take of the cap you will see the motor runs clockwise

rotate the motor and stop when the num 1 pistion is at its highest

the timing mark on the timing pully should be in the area of TDC

(if not you are on number 4 cylinder) note the position of the rotor on the dissy and cap .point ..thats lead one so mark the leads