Oil change

[ivorya]

Originally Posted by rondeo

Also in the present:

https://www.nulon.com.au/products/fu...ent-engine-oil

Check specifications and the cautions tabs.

Response this afternoon from Nulon Technical department.

"The clause for DPF is only for DPF's that don't suit the oil spec. This oil, suits your car spec, so it's ok to use"

[NZ XR6]

Sounds like they're even more confused than we are.

The basic problem is that Ford specify the wrong oil. It should be a mid-SAPS oil meeting ACEA C2 or C3, but instead they specify a petrol / non-DPF diesel oil.

Peugeot specify a C2 oil for the same engine in their cars.

The oil manufacturers are never going to go against the Ford spec, but I'd love to know what they really think.

I used to have regular DPF regens using the Ford recommended Castrol oil. I can't remember the last regen - maybe a year ago?

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[Highway cruser]

Originally Posted by NZ XR6

Sounds like they're even more confused than we are.

I used to have regular DPF regens using the Ford recommended Castrol oil. I can't remember the last regen - maybe a year ago?

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Just wondering how you know when it's doing a regeneration? As they don't have an idicator from factory. The guy that had my car previously fitted an led indicator that comes on when doing a regen cycle so I know every time mine does it.

[NZ XR6]

Originally Posted by Highway cruser

Just wondering how you know when it's doing a regeneration? As they don't have an idicator from factory. The guy that had my car previously fitted an led indicator that comes on when doing a regen cycle so I know every time mine does it.

I can usually hear a change in the engine sound and the instantaneous fuel consumption goes up. At low speeds the radiator fan spins fast and is quite noisy.

I really should get an OBD2 adapter.

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[rondeo]

I don't see how high SAPs oil would cause more frequent regenerations, it's the soot from the fuel which blocks the DPF and has to be burned off; not the ash, which is incombustible.

My understanding was that the ash from a high SAPs oil would build up pretty slowly and DPF would just need replacing sooner.

I might give this a go next time:

https://www.fuchs.com/au/en/special/...c-2-sae-5w-30/

It also has the PSA approval.

[Highway cruser]

There are fuel additives that are designed to help clean the dpf. I've recently put one in and it seems to have reduced the frequency of the the rengeration cycles. It's suppose to put chemicals on the dpf that lowers the burning temp of the carbon or increases the burning temp when active. Can't remember which way round. The end result is,it's suppose to help clean the filter, which at the moment it seems to have done.

[NZ XR6]

Originally Posted by rondeo

I don't see how high SAPs oil would cause more frequent regenerations, it's the soot from the fuel which blocks the DPF and has to be burned off; not the ash, which is incombustible.

My understanding was that the ash from a high SAPs oil would build up pretty slowly and DPF would just need replacing sooner.

I might give this a go next time:

https://www.fuchs.com/au/en/special/...c-2-sae-5w-30/

It also has the PSA approval.

Maybe the diesel has improved? I nearly always use BP Ultimate, perhaps the additives actually do something?

All I know is that since changing to the Fuchs Titan ProFlex, the engine appears to have stopped doing DPF regens. It will be interesting to see what happens with the Penrite oil.

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[NZ XR6]

Originally Posted by Highway cruser

There are fuel additives that are designed to help clean the dpf. I've recently put one in and it seems to have reduced the frequency of the the rengeration cycles. It's suppose to put chemicals on the dpf that lowers the burning temp of the carbon or increases the burning temp when active. Can't remember which way round. The end result is,it's suppose to help clean the filter, which at the moment it seems to have done.

The DPF incorporates a catalyst to reduce buildup on the DPF and reduce the temperature needed for the regen.

Which additive did you use?

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[NZ XR6]

Originally Posted by Highway cruser

There are fuel additives that are designed to help clean the dpf. I've recently put one in and it seems to have reduced the frequency of the the rengeration cycles. It's suppose to put chemicals on the dpf that lowers the burning temp of the carbon or increases the burning temp when active. Can't remember which way round. The end result is,it's suppose to help clean the filter, which at the moment it seems to have done.

The DPF incorporates a catalyst to reduce buildup on the DPF and reduce the temperature needed for the regen.

Which additive did you use?

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[Highway cruser]

Originally Posted by NZ XR6

The DPF incorporates a catalyst to reduce buildup on the DPF and reduce the temperature needed for the regen.

Which additive did you use?

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Think it was this one. http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Pro...ae-Stop/347774

[ivorya]

Originally Posted by cobrin

I use this one

I went a bit crazy last year and the year before so I now have thirty litres of the stuff and ten litres of the C-4 variant.

For your Kuga can you give the Spec's on the vehicle?

What's your technique on accurately getting the 5-6L oil out of the big 10L container?

[cobrin]

Originally Posted by ivorya

What's your technique on accurately getting the 5-6L oil out of the big 10L container?

You don't actually need to measure per se, a case of good funnel wide opening and outlet and pour directly from the drum. If the drum is full then it's opening is at the top (to avoid glugging) and rotate the drum as it empties. When within a good safe starting range I'll run it for 30sec, check the level and pour in to the upper level....donski

I work from the dipstick more than measured amounts, it's a tad more site specific.

Works well for me without any mess but you do have to be on the ball when pouring.

Had though about a drill powered pump but again more nonessential crap:
https://www.bunnings.com.au/craftrig...-pump_p6320813

[ivorya]

Originally Posted by cobrin

You don't actually need to measure per se, a case of good funnel wide opening and outlet and pour directly from the drum. If the drum is full then it's opening is at the top (to avoid glugging) and rotate the drum as it empties. When within a good safe starting range I'll run it for 30sec, check the level and pour in to the upper level....donski

I work from the dipstick more than measured amounts, it's a tad more site specific.

Works well for me without any mess but you do have to be on the ball when pouring.

Had though about a drill powered pump but again more nonessential crap:
https://www.bunnings.com.au/craftrig...-pump_p6320813

Thanks.
I was thinking about getting this to help.

http://www.kmart.com.au/product/wate...-litres/725801

Removing the spray tip. Fill till 5-6L, just pour in.

[NZ XR6]

Keep an empty 5 l oil container, fill it from the drum, and that will get you about half way up the dipstick. Top up from there after running the engine.

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[rondeo]

The watering can is a good idea.

Another good idea is a plastic storage box

to put the watering can in

otherwise you get insects and dust stuck on the oil.

I have been using a 2 litre measuring jug

1 litre a time (challenge: count to 5)

which has an open mouth

unlike an oil container.

I keep count with gravel

and fill to half way up the hatched part of the stick.

The upper mark means the maximum allowable

and the lower means the minimum.

The ideal is in the middle?

So 5 litres goes in and top up is usually about 250ml.

If the phone rings I look at the gravel

when I get back.

[cobrin]

Originally Posted by rondeo

The ideal is in the middle?

Well granted it is a safe working range and it's not like it's a hell of a lot more, but I don't know why you'd (not specifically you) not choose the top mark. With emissions standards as they are the oil is the new dumping ground, everything is being dumped in it, on top of lubrication and cooling duties.

[ivorya]

I've also seen this, http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Pro...05040/SPO82384

which i've also seen at Gasweld for $21.

Might see if supercheap will match the price!!

[rondeo]

$36 is a bit steep?

Looks good.

Opening size would be OK at 10cm plus

so no need to use funnel.

I keep a funnel, 2l jug and rag

in a plastic box.

As for the dipstick

On the max line

it's nearer to overfill

which theoretically means

higher crankcase pressure

and more weeping at crankcase seals,

unless crankcase pressure is regulated?

The difference between the min and max marks

I think is 1 litre.

[cobrin]

it's nearer to overfill

which theoretically means

higher crankcase pressure

and more weeping at crankcase seals,

it's still within a safe operating range, dont know why you think it means higher crankcase pressure and more oil leaks, it'll essentially be identical. Emissions systems keeps everything in check.

[rondeo]

The owner manual suggests
keeep the oil level between the limits.
Surely the best approximation to that
is the middle.

I could be wrong
about the crankcase pressure,
if two pistons are going up
and two are going down
at the same time
it shouldn''t make a difference.

Anyway, can't do much harm
I've done that for the last 40 years
without problems.

Or am I a tad obsessive?

Now that I think of it
isn't it just as obsessive to put it at the full mark?

[Highway cruser]

Crank case should be at atmospheric pressure or very close to it. The crank case is connected to the inlet before the turbo so any blow by can be recirculated back into the intake. If the motor is in good order there should be little to no oil or blow by. If the crank case is being pressurised then there's an issue.

[NZ XR6]

Originally Posted by NZ XR6

Maybe the diesel has improved? I nearly always use BP Ultimate, perhaps the additives actually do something?

All I know is that since changing to the Fuchs Titan ProFlex, the engine appears to have stopped doing DPF regens. It will be interesting to see what happens with the Penrite oil.

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Well, that didn't take long - regen on the motorway today. I'll reserve judgement as the car has done mainly short trips since mid-January, but this is not a good start.



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[Highway cruser]

Originally Posted by NZ XR6

Well, that didn't take long - regen on the motorway today. I'll reserve judgement as the car has done mainly short trips since mid-January, but this is not a good start.



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Having the led indicator on the dash I know that mine regens about every 80-100km on the high way. Not having done an oil change on it yet, but knowing that the previous owner used valvaline synpower fe I don't see that would be out of the way. I would expect that the fuel would contribute far more to the regen frequency than th oil. At the end of the day if oil particular matter is clogging the dpf then that would indicate that the motor is burning the oil. As far as I know modern motors don't normally burn that much oil. If the motor is breathing heavily then this would increase the amount of oil being burnt, however I don't believe these motors breath that heavily. I also believe that the 2.0L level 5 immissions motors have an oil separator built into the crank case breather system which should remove the vast amount of oil going back into the intake system meaning virtually no oil is being burnt.

[Highway cruser]

I've just checked on the specification on the valvoline synpower fe, and while is designed specifically for these motor's and the ford standard it doesn't state that it's dpf safe. This seams to be a case of meeting the requirements for ford but not Peugeot. They do an Env c-2 as well as a mst c-3 which meet the Peugeot requirements and are dpf safe. So depending on cost I will also look at these as an alternative to the Penrite.

[cobrin]

I also believe that the 2.0L level 5 immissions motors have an oil separator built into the crank case breather system which should remove the vast amount of oil going back into the intake system meaning virtually no oil is being burnt.

They all do, MA MB and MC have oil/air separators.

[rondeo]

Originally Posted by ivorya

I've also seen this, http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Pro...05040/SPO82384

which i've also seen at Gasweld for $21.

I bought one at Total Tools for $24.

http://www.tridon.com.au/products/To.../428375/305040

Almost perfect! Can be capped at both the filler and the spout to keep bugs and dust out during storage.

Re regens I think mine does at around 350km intervals, used mainly at 100km/h.
Engine uses hardly any oil between changes, no need for top-ups.
Using Nulon C3 changed at 15000km.
Done about 170000km each on two cars
Av fuel 6.2-6.4. Some fuels not so good- 6.7.
No mechanical failures except turbo vacuum solenoid on both cars. $100 each.

[NZ XR6]

Originally Posted by Highway cruser

Having the led indicator on the dash I know that mine regens about every 80-100km on the high way. Not having done an oil change on it yet, but knowing that the previous owner used valvaline synpower fe I don't see that would be out of the way. I would expect that the fuel would contribute far more to the regen frequency than th oil. At the end of the day if oil particular matter is clogging the dpf then that would indicate that the motor is burning the oil. As far as I know modern motors don't normally burn that much oil. If the motor is breathing heavily then this would increase the amount of oil being burnt, however I don't believe these motors breath that heavily. I also believe that the 2.0L level 5 immissions motors have an oil separator built into the crank case breather system which should remove the vast amount of oil going back into the intake system meaning virtually no oil is being burnt.

That’s a lot of regens. I’d encourage you to use a good C2 or C3 oil and see if it changes.

I could not believe how much difference the Fuchs Pro Flex made - no regens and about 5% better fuel consumption. I suspect I will end up changing back to it.

Someone else here has mentioned that the oil shouldn’t affect regen frequency. Sorry, but my experience for the last year is that it does.

[ivorya]

Originally Posted by rondeo

I bought one at Total Tools for $24.

http://www.tridon.com.au/products/To.../428375/305040

Almost perfect! Can be capped at both the filler and the spout to keep bugs and dust out during storage.

Re regens I think mine does at around 350km intervals, used mainly at 100km/h.
Engine uses hardly any oil between changes, no need for top-ups.
Using Nulon C3 changed at 15000km.
Done about 170000km each on two cars
Av fuel 6.2-6.4. Some fuels not so good- 6.7.
No mechanical failures except turbo vacuum solenoid on both cars. $100 each.

I ended up buying the Nulon 10L C3 and used a cheap 1L container to transfer the oil, bit cheaper. Just happy now that i have a dedicated Diesel oil in the engine and to know that many are using this oil without issues.

Thank you to everyone for supplying lots of knowledge in this area.

[ivorya]

Originally Posted by NZ XR6

That’s a lot of regens. I’d encourage you to use a good C2 or C3 oil and see if it changes.

I could not believe how much difference the Fuchs Pro Flex made - no regens and about 5% better fuel consumption. I suspect I will end up changing back to it.

Someone else here has mentioned that the oil shouldn’t affect regen frequency. Sorry, but my experience for the last year is that it does.

Hey NZ,

Have you put the C4 Penrite in your engine yet?
Any noticeable changes? Nosier, economy, regens etc?

[Highway cruser]

Originally Posted by NZ XR6

That’s a lot of regens. I’d encourage you to use a good C2 or C3 oil and see if it changes.

I could not believe how much difference the Fuchs Pro Flex made - no regens and about 5% better fuel consumption. I suspect I will end up changing back to it.

Someone else here has mentioned that the oil shouldn’t affect regen frequency. Sorry, but my experience for the last year is that it does.

As I've only recently brought the car and haven't serviced it yet, when I do in about 2,000km I will be using either a C2 or C3 oil. It will be interesting to see what effect it has on the regen cycles.