Interesting discoveries about my Escort

The MaDDeSTMaN · 14-06-2005, 04:57 PM

While doing research for my Escort Information web site, I found the information required to understand what is printed on the compliance plates. So I went out and had a look at mine, wrote down the information printed on them and came inside to look it all up.

Here's what I discovered.

The car was manufactured in 11/76, but was not a 2.0 GL when it left the factory. Nor was it the colour it is now.

Originally it was a "E" engine (1.6L 4cylinder 1V Low Compression), and it's not a GL, it was a 11636 - in other words, an XL Sedan 4 Door. From what I've read, the GL didn't exist until 6/1977. Oh, and it was originally white, not blue.

So, somebody has pulled out the 1.6L kent and replaced it with a 2.0L pinto, they've also changed the badges, adding the Ghia badges on the front 1/4 panels and changing the 1.6 XL badges on the rear to 2.0 GL. They've also removed the XLs boring dash and instrumentation, replacing them with the Ghias wood veneered dash and Ghia instrument cluster, including the tacho. They also replaced the round headlights and front grille with the square lights and later model grille with the round blue oval in the middle.

So now I know why the radiator didn't bolt straight in easily when I was first putting it all together again.

14-06-2005, 06:55 PM

With all those changes are you sure they just didn't change the compliance plate?

_2:

The MaDDeSTMaN · 15-06-2005, 12:49 AM

I guess I can't be 100% sure they havn't, next steps will be to find out if it's the 3.77:1 diff (1.6L engine) or 3.54:1 diff (2.0L engine), also to find out more about the 2.0 block itself.

T3man · 15-06-2005, 12:54 PM

3.54 diff gives 105km/h at 3000rpm in fourth ...

EA2BA · 15-06-2005, 01:00 PM

Well a Ford being a Ford the engine number matches the chassis number, thats how I know a car I am buying can be reasonably considered genuine or not.

Racecraft · 15-06-2005, 01:04 PM

I'd say it is a front cut resto, sounds like it anyway

The MaDDeSTMaN · 15-06-2005, 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by T3man

3.54 diff gives 105km/h at 3000rpm in fourth ...

Hmm, that's what I thought, at 100km/h my tacho reads above 3000rpm...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Racecraft

I'd say it is a front cut resto, sounds like it anyway

Do you know of any ways of checking this, or checking if those are the original compliance plates? And is this a bad thing, sorry if that sounds like a dumb question, but I don't like the sound of it.

The MaDDeSTMaN · 15-06-2005, 01:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dellboy999

Well a Ford being a Ford the engine number matches the chassis number, thats how I know a car I am buying can be reasonably considered genuine or not.

Well that engine number definately doesn't match the chassis number, seeing as it's definately a 2.0L OHC pinto and the compliance plate says it should be a 1.6L OHV kent...

Racecraft · 15-06-2005, 01:21 PM

not if it has been done properly, you could look for some 'unfactory' looking seams or welds...

But if you didn't know or it didn't strike you as out of true I wouldn't worry about it..

Perana · 15-06-2005, 01:24 PM

As Raccraft said it shouldnt be a problem unless it was a dodgy job. As far as the diff ratio it could be different since they arent known for their strenght and they are so easy to change

The MaDDeSTMaN · 15-06-2005, 01:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Perana XR8

As Raccraft said it shouldnt be a problem unless it was a dodgy job. As far as the diff ratio it could be different since they arent known for their strenght and they are so easy to change

Ok, well if I'd never looked up the information from the compliance plate I would have never known any of this, so I guess it's nothing to worry about, however I do find it rather interesting.

Regarding the diff, I suspect that it's still got the 3.77:1 diff from the 1.6L, is there any way of checking? Not that I'm complaining about having a shorter diff ratio if that's the case, I was seriously considering putting in a 3.77:1 diff anyway, looks like I don't need to.

Has anybody got any links to pages where I could look up more information about the engine from the engine number? I'm curious now, particularly seeing as the previous owner had a big bore exhaust (I can't remember exactly how big, over 2") and a set of extractors, a set of 205's on the rear, a short fit and now it looks like it's got a 3.77:1 diff ratio...

Perana · 15-06-2005, 01:39 PM

Best way is to count the teeth on the crownwheel and pinion but that involves removal..
Another way would be to see how many revs it does at 100km/h and it can be worked out from there. I have got a spreadsheet set up for it so I can work it out if you like

Racecraft · 15-06-2005, 01:58 PM

For an open diff:
Jack one wheel off ground
Make reference mark on tyre and another on the tailshaft
Get someone to rotate wheel two full revolutions
# of driveshaft turns = gear ratio

The MaDDeSTMaN · 15-06-2005, 10:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Perana XR8

Best way is to count the teeth on the crownwheel and pinion but that involves removal..
Another way would be to see how many revs it does at 100km/h and it can be worked out from there. I have got a spreadsheet set up for it so I can work it out if you like

Yeah, don't really want to remove it if I can help it, particularly seeing as there isn't anything wrong with it, hehehe.

I'm going for a drive on the freeway tomorrow, I'll take note of exactly what revs it does at 100km/h then, might even get a passenger to take a photo of the speedo and tacho at 100km/h.

Any chance of getting a copy of that spreadsheet, that sounds interesting and useful.

Does anybody know where I could find more information on the block I've got? And considering the previous owner was running it with extractors and a big exhaust, would it be worth running it on a dyno?

Perana · 16-06-2005, 11:15 AM

Ill see if i can find it... its on one of the hard drives.... somewhere..... lol

The MaDDeSTMaN · 16-06-2005, 11:40 AM

Tacho was reading 3250 rpm at 100km/h, so I think it's safe to say it's doesn't have the 3.54:1 diff gearing...

Perana · 16-06-2005, 11:49 AM

Going by my spreadsheet it has 3.77:1 Gears in it..

As far as the engine block there is really only one block avaliable over here being the standard Escort/Cortina block... There is a stronger Sierra Injection block from the UK or the Sierra Cosworth Block but i think both of those would be fairly unlikely.. If it is a Sierra Block it will have a large 200 or 205 cast on the side of the block... If you can find a part number on the block an Escort/Cortina one is 70HM starting numbers or something like that i think...

PM on its way...

The MaDDeSTMaN · 16-06-2005, 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Perana XR8

Going by my spreadsheet it has 3.77:1 Gears in it..

As far as the engine block there is really only one block avaliable over here being the standard Escort/Cortina block... There is a stronger Sierra Injection block from the UK or the Sierra Cosworth Block but i think both of those would be fairly unlikely.. If it is a Sierra Block it will have a large 200 or 205 cast on the side of the block... If you can find a part number on the block an Escort/Cortina one is 70HM starting numbers or something like that i think...

PM on its way...

Yeah, that's what I suspected when I saw the tacho reading 3250 rpm - It must be a 3.77:1 diff.

Regarding the block, it does start with 70HM, so it's a standard Escort/Cortina 2.0L block, and I guess the only way to know anything more about it would be to pull it apart and look for myself, right?

Perana · 16-06-2005, 12:08 PM

Basically thats right.. the specification of all Escort/Cortina engines over here was basically the same.. There was only a lower compression model for Commercial vehicles.

The MaDDeSTMaN · 16-06-2005, 12:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Perana XR8

Basically thats right.. the specification of all Escort/Cortina engines over here was basically the same.. There was only a lower compression model for Commercial vehicles.

Ahh, ok, so would there be any point getting it dynoed? Or would there be any other way to find out more about it without pulling it apart? Considering some of the other changes the previous owner made, I suspect the engine itself isn't completely stock - I mean, who would go to the trouble of swapping a 1.6L for a 2.0L, converting the transmission to a short shift, running extractors and a decent exhaust, etc. without getting at least some head work done too?

I'm hoping they have done a bit of head work - saves me having to get it done, lol!

Perana · 16-06-2005, 12:58 PM

Theres no real way of finding out whats been done without pulling it apart... even dynoing wont show much really since there are so many variables in an older car...

The MaDDeSTMaN · 16-06-2005, 01:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Perana XR8

Theres no real way of finding out whats been done without pulling it apart... even dynoing wont show much really since there are so many variables in an older car...

Yeah, true, but if I got it dynoed, wouldn't I have a hp/nm graph I could look at and get some idea of how it ran on that day, and at least find out if it's making more or less power then it should be? Also wouldn't it show if the engine is breathing any better then stock?

Sory if these seem like dumb questions - I've never had a car run on a dyno.

Perana · 16-06-2005, 01:08 PM

It could be useful depending on the level of mods it may show some difference... Also it would be able to tell you how well it is tuned at the moment.