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Old 03-12-2018, 06:33 PM   #3301
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Default Re: New to cycling

Only saw that this afternoon. Him and Liggitt were the voice of cycling for many years.

Very sad for all concerned
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Old 03-12-2018, 09:26 PM   #3302
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Default Re: New to cycling

Have bicycles changed much in the last 20 years? Thinking of upgrading from my MY2000 Giant ATX 860. Attached pictures are of exactly the same model as mine however my frame is large size so top bar is horizontal (like in the last picture).











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Old 03-12-2018, 10:12 PM   #3303
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Default Re: New to cycling

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Have bicycles changed much in the last 20 years?
yes and no. the basics are still the same, but the materials have changed and some of the machanics of the bike have changed.

most decent off road bikes now have disc brake options, electronic gears, lighter frames, more gears and different configurations depending on if you want suspension front, rear, or none.

the gear selectors have probably been improved to be smoother and better...

it really depends on what you want from the bike.
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Old 04-12-2018, 06:17 PM   #3304
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Default Re: New to cycling

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Only saw that this afternoon. Him and Liggitt were the voice of cycling for many years.

Very sad for all concerned
Truly sad news ...A passionate , funny , informative and respected commentator .. We'll miss his great work .
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Old 04-12-2018, 06:21 PM   #3305
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Default Re: New to cycling

Been riding my Malvern Star Octane again lately . Mostly to work which is about 1.5 km away.. The last hill gets me a bit (pretty steep) but it's geared okay to let me not surrender yet .. Good fun and saves the cars a bit .
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Old 04-12-2018, 07:27 PM   #3306
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Been riding my Malvern Star Octane again lately . Mostly to work which is about 1.5 km away.. The last hill gets me a bit (pretty steep) but it's geared okay to let me not surrender yet .. Good fun and saves the cars a bit .
My in-laws live in Four Mile Creek, and I ride up Elephant pass when I’m there then down St Mary’s pass. That’s awesome fun!
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Old 05-12-2018, 03:57 PM   #3307
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My in-laws live in Four Mile Creek, and I ride up Elephant pass when I’m there then down St Mary’s pass. That’s awesome fun!
One of my sisters lives in Four Mile Creek ..So , you do the full circuit around the two Passes ..No hope for me doing that . Too old , too fat and so is the bike . Still enjoy the odd pedal though . Did today actually .

Our groundsman at work (StMarys District School) is a mad cyclist . He trains just about every day , sometimes on the Passes and races most Sundays in the Launceston Veteran Cycling Club events , mostly in D and E Grade now he's mid 50's . His bike is worth about $12,000 I think ..He LOVES his cycling . In contrast , my bike cost me about $250 in about 2009 . Big difference .
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Old 05-12-2018, 04:02 PM   #3308
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Default Re: New to cycling

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yes and no. the basics are still the same, but the materials have changed and some of the machanics of the bike have changed.

most decent off road bikes now have disc brake options, electronic gears, lighter frames, more gears and different configurations depending on if you want suspension front, rear, or none.

the gear selectors have probably been improved to be smoother and better...

it really depends on what you want from the bike.
The front derailleur on my ATX 860 has never worked properly from day 1. The latest range of Giant MTB only have a derailleur on the rear wheel. Plus I don't have disc brakes (they were standard fitment on the ATX 870 that year)
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Old 06-12-2018, 05:58 AM   #3309
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Default Re: New to cycling

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Have bicycles changed much in the last 20 years? Thinking of upgrading from my MY2000 Giant ATX 860. Attached pictures are of exactly the same model as mine however my frame is large size so top bar is horizontal (like in the last picture
Mountain bikes have change massively in the last few years.
Wheel sizes are not 26” anymore. They are 27.5 or 29er
Frame geometry has changed a lot
Fork rake (angles) are way different
Forks are a MASSISE leap forward
gears are not 3x any more, mostly 1x11spd or 12spd
Handlebars are wider and angled, with or without risers.
Brakes are hydraulic and bigger
Dropper seat posts
Tyres are tubeless
Dual suspension or hard tails
Etc.

Just in hard tails alone, my 25yr old Norco is a way different bike to my 10yr old mongoose Vs my current model nukeproof scout. All 3 bikes are completemy different beasts. Then if I compare my Scott spark dual suspension bike, that rides way different again. Depending on the riding I’m doing, I’ll swap between the Scott and the nukeproof.

If you want to get back into it. Start back on the ATX and workout the kind of riding you like, be it trails, xcountry, downhill, single track, fire tails etc. then go see a few decent bike shops and discuss with them for a bike that suits the style of riding you want. Do a bit of searching YouTube for channels like GMBN or pinkbike, before you do though, you will learn heaps and be able to work out which shops know their stuff and which shops are just trying to sell you a bike they need to move on.
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Old 12-12-2018, 03:13 PM   #3310
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The front derailleur on my ATX 860 has never worked properly from day 1. The latest range of Giant MTB only have a derailleur on the rear wheel. Plus I don't have disc brakes (they were standard fitment on the ATX 870 that year)
I wouldn't concern yourself with the latest and greatest. Get out on ya bike and enjoy what you have then maybe upgrade later. There is always bargains after Christmas.
Remember its you powering the thing.
Though a have a collection of newer bicycles, my most fav bike to ride offroad is a 1947 Speedwell 'Popular deluxe" back pedal, single speed.

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Old 12-12-2018, 05:29 PM   #3311
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Agreed on the above, picked up this cheap single speed. I can flip the rear wheel around to make it a fixie aswell. Keeps me fit for my mtb riding/racing.
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Old 12-12-2018, 10:30 PM   #3312
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Default Re: New to cycling

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One of my sisters lives in Four Mile Creek ..So , you do the full circuit around the two Passes ..No hope for me doing that . Too old , too fat and so is the bike . Still enjoy the odd pedal though . Did today actually .

Our groundsman at work (StMarys District School) is a mad cyclist . He trains just about every day , sometimes on the Passes and races most Sundays in the Launceston Veteran Cycling Club events , mostly in D and E Grade now he's mid 50's . His bike is worth about $12,000 I think ..He LOVES his cycling . In contrast , my bike cost me about $250 in about 2009 . Big difference .
That’s some serious coin. $12k he should be flying around easy. I ride from Fourmile to Chain of lagoons along the Tasman and went up Elephant Pass to St Mary’s and then back down St Mary’s Pass. Great ride! Beautiful spot you guys are in. I love being down there with my bike.
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Old 13-12-2018, 10:41 AM   #3313
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image
Agreed on the above, picked up this cheap single speed. I can flip the rear wheel around to make it a fixie aswell. Keeps me fit for my mtb riding/racing.
Nice buy.
A road group I rode with always kept asking me why I trained on a drop handlebar knobby tyre dually MTB until I fronted up with a road bike at the Calga time trials one day.
Still train on it.
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Old 31-12-2018, 02:48 PM   #3314
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My MY2000 ATX 860 Giant has Shimano Deore HB-M510 viam hubs which haven't been opened since they were built. The bicycle has covered just over 2,000km in its life which isn't high. I plan to rebuild them after new year. To those who regularly service bicycles, do you expect me to find much grease inside the hubs once I open them? :-P
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Old 01-01-2019, 07:13 AM   #3315
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My MY2000 ATX 860 Giant has Shimano Deore HB-M510 viam hubs which haven't been opened since they were built. The bicycle has covered just over 2,000km in its life which isn't high. I plan to rebuild them after new year. To those who regularly service bicycles, do you expect me to find much grease inside the hubs once I open them? :-P
Happy New Year

Being Deore (LX ?? equivalent) I would imagine they would be sealed hubs, at 2000kmm that would be nothing. Just clean them up, I wouldn't bother pulling these apart. (if you can ??)
Most Shimano stuff was built with planned obsolescence in mind. (If they look really stuffed on the outside replace them, which usually means a new wheel unless you can relace spoke wheels)
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Old 01-01-2019, 07:22 AM   #3316
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Shimano never do sealed bearings for “serviceability reasons”.
Here is an EV of your hub to work from. http://si.shimano.com/pdfs/ev/EV-HB-M510-1894.pdf
As it is Shimano I guarantee you will find stuff all greese in there, just like they when they come off the factory floor.
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Old 01-01-2019, 07:27 AM   #3317
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GT, Thank god, they're not like Mavic ones.
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Old 01-01-2019, 11:09 AM   #3318
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GT, Thank god, they're not like Mavic ones.
Ahh the French, gotta love ‘em!!
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Old 01-01-2019, 02:45 PM   #3319
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Shimano never do sealed bearings for “serviceability reasons”.
Here is an EV of your hub to work from. http://si.shimano.com/pdfs/ev/EV-HB-M510-1894.pdf
As it is Shimano I guarantee you will find stuff all greese in there, just like they when they come off the factory floor.

You the man! I searched for this information but couldn't find it. There are no torque specifications in the PDF document and I have a bad habit of over-tightening things.
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Old 01-01-2019, 04:56 PM   #3320
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You the man! I searched for this information but couldn't find it. There are no torque specifications in the PDF document and I have a bad habit of over-tightening things.
I wouldn’t fuss to much over torque settings for cup & cone bearings. I usually tighten the cone screw up a fraction tight to the bearing, then screw the lock nut up finger tight then back the cone nut off to tighten against the lock nut until tight. Then check it all spins free and smooth and is not loose. It may take a few goes to get right.

Http://si.shimano.com is the bible site for all things Shimano cycling. It has all the info you could ever need.
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Old 01-01-2019, 06:38 PM   #3321
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2000km is nothing. I did well over 10000km on my campag zonda (cup and cone shimano hubs) before pulling them apart chasing a noise (which wasn't them in the end), and they were fine.

When tightening them up I found they perform much better if I don't take up all the slack. When I grab the top of the rim, I can move it about .5 - 1mm side to side. If I tighten it up so the slack is just removed, they roll nowhere near as free. Been like this for over 10k km also.

I forget what grease I use but it's blue, and real sticky.
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Old 02-01-2019, 12:18 PM   #3322
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I went to the bike shop this morning and purchased some grease. I've seen many YouTube instructional videos and a lot of people use a blue coloured grease. The shop recommended Red Devil. I am not too concerned about this as I am not looking for the lowest viscosity grease to save me a few seconds every 100km I ride.

Got home and discovered the 14mm cone spanner I purchased was 1 mm too big. Doh! Disassembled the front axle. First side looked OK - grease looked like a pale shade of yellow and there seemed to be an adequate amount. Got to the second side and noticed more grease but a darker brown colour. Removed the grease to discover the cone is very pitted. This explains the slight rough feeling when i turned axle by hand.

Now the search for replacement parts begins.
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Old 02-01-2019, 01:55 PM   #3323
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That lovely dark brown could mean some water sat there with dirt (or someone used heavy boat axle grease.) The blue stuff I use for the grease port in my front shocks. good stuff.
Nothing drives you nuts than a couple of grains of sand in an axle bearing or the bottom bracket.

Those Mavic's I mentioned early had a special pin spanner arrangement with press fit odd sized sealed bearings which were so hard to remove and find anywhere until a good supply of them was found under my nose at the local bearing specialist.
He even had sealed bearings for Cannondale sized rear swingarms and their 1 1/2in headsets.
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Old 02-01-2019, 02:05 PM   #3324
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That lovely dark brown could mean some water sat there with dirt (or someone used heavy boat axle grease.) The blue stuff I use for the grease port in my front shocks. good stuff.
Nothing drives you nuts than a couple of grains of sand in an axle bearing or the bottom bracket.

Those Mavic's I mentioned early had a special pin spanner arrangement with press fit odd sized sealed bearings which were so hard to remove and find anywhere until a good supply of them was found under my nose at the local bearing specialist.
He even had sealed bearings for Cannondale sized rear swingarms and their 1 1/2in headsets.
Ah yes. Mavic and their “special” tools required to repair their unreliable products. Much like a particular French automaker and their products too.
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Old 02-01-2019, 02:40 PM   #3325
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Yes, I do see a lot of "bargain" French cars for sale on Ebay.

Now, German on the other hand, back when SRAM was Sachs, I bought spare parts for Ergopower shifters and New Success derailleurs I'm still using 25 years later. Must have rebuilt them twice now.
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Old 02-01-2019, 04:14 PM   #3326
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Now the search for replacement parts begins.
I've found some hard to find parts off these guys before and good prices. Was well over 10 years since I have purchased off them though.

https://www.loosescrews.com/product-...bicycle-parts/

Good Luck.
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Old 02-01-2019, 04:30 PM   #3327
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I've found some hard to find parts off these guys before and good prices. Was well over 10 years since I have purchased off them though.

https://www.loosescrews.com/product-...bicycle-parts/

Good Luck.

Thanks gossy. Shimano have informed me that spare parts for the HB-510 have lone been discontinued.

Time for a new bicycle.
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Old 02-01-2019, 11:51 PM   #3328
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Thanks gossy. Shimano have informed me that spare parts for the HB-510 have lone been discontinued.

Time for a new bicycle.

Just discovered on eBay the same model front hubs still can be purchased as new stock. Better than going down this path:


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Old 04-01-2019, 11:18 AM   #3329
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Just discovered on eBay the same model front hubs still can be purchased as new stock. Better than going down this path:
You can be lucky and find NOS in some of the older bike shops.

I busted a front wheel quick release (me over tightening) the other day and wanted a alloy cam over type replacement due to the front suspension rebound adjustments being down there. I walked into the local shop and found 6 NOS cam type ones front and back for a $20 bundle deal.
A standard Shimano one (which doesn't work for me) is $25 new.
I was lucky to be at Amart sport store last year in Coffs Harbour when they had a clearance of NOS bicycle parts and scored Sram 8-9 speed clusters, chains and black spire chainrings etc. I use.
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Old 05-01-2019, 08:47 AM   #3330
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@syndrome.
If it’s only the cone you need then that’s easy.
https://www.velogear.com.au/parts/bi...les/cones.html

Or most bike shops may have them floating around.
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googoo gaga whoops sorry i thought this was the let's be whiny babies thread
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