How to Ajust or Replace Hand Brake (IRS)

[Whoosha]

With my XR not holding in the driveway on the park brake thought I would have a bit of a look and adjust : What a :sm_headba
Did the usual search but not with much luck so have deciede to put it all on one page
Step 1
Place car on level ground and chock front wheels both ways to avoid rolling in either direction.release handbrake and place in neutral
Step 2
For minor ajustments, this can be done from inside the car, the adjuster is located at the base of the hand brake handle. This can be seen clearly by removeing the cover .

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release hand brake,Then by turning the small nut clockwise this will allow for some small ajustment , pull up on the hand brake lever and check, (note do not screw the small nut off the end of the thread ,as it is a pain to get it back : )
If there is no great improvement wind the small nut back till it's almost off the end.This will allow the cables to be at their slackest adjustment
Step 3
Jack the rear of the car up till the wheels are clear of the ground, Place on stands and remove wheels,

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Step 4
Remove brake caliper retaining bolts and slide caliper off (Note; there is no need to disconnet brake lines)
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Step 5
Remove large phillips head screw from rotor, this my take some doing and a impact driver may be required, also at this point I would soak the rotor centre ware it mounts the hub with Penetrene or simular as the build up of rust paint and grime can cause the rotor to jam on the hub, allgoing well the rotor should now come off the hub or some sharp tapping with a hammer around the hub and rotor may be required.

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Step 6
Once the rotor is removed you will see the the adjuster & outer handbrake ring.the ring is secured by a clip at the opposite end to the adjuster,

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This is easly removed by inserting a blade screwdriver between the shoe and the hub and gentely easing it away from the adjuster till clear of the clip. Once the ring is clear of the retaining clip it can be swug outwards towards yourself for removal.




Step 7
At this point inspect the shoe on the outer ring for ware and replace if required. disassemble the ajuster clean repack with grease noteing how it came apart, slot and small pin to the top, adjuster to the bottom (make sure the adjuster is free to unscrew it self before refitting)


Step 8
Reassemble is the reverse of what you have just done, Note; when you slide the ring back on to the adjuster have the slots facing outwards and they should turn back inwards with the ring to be fitted back to the retaing clip.
Also at this point I would clean with emery paper or file the build up on the hub center to allow easy refitting of the rotor

Step 9
With the adjuster screwed all the way in there should be plenty of room for the rotor to freely spin. by screwing the ajduster out a few turns at a time removing the rotor and spinning each time you should be able to find a point ware the handbrake shoe makes contact with the internal rotor but does not bind up as to lock the Rotor, When this point is reached thats about all you can do, Refitt the large phillips head screw and repeat on opposite side
Step 10
Clean caliper bolts and re apply a coat of lock tight secure calipers back to vechical



Replace wheels
Step 11
Back inside the car you can now fine tune the adjustment with the threaded adjuster and small nut hopefully this should give you some sort of hand brake
Note it may be nessasary to redo step 9 to gain optimun stoppage




NOTE; this is a guide only and if you dont feel you are compentent enough to do this seek out professional help

[Whoosha]

yes I am still on holidays and was Bored Painting
calipers and hubs is optional
I also rang a mate at Ford to make sure there is no easyer way there aint, and there is no special ajusting tool either

[Dauphin]

Thanks for that Whoosha, I'd like to have a go at this one day but I am too scared, hehe. Any chance of a photo of the brake calipers being removed?

[Whoosha]

Originally Posted by Dauphin

Thanks for that Whoosha, I'd like to have a go at this one day but I am too scared, hehe. Any chance of a photo of the brake calipers being removed?

Thats the easy bit mate, with the wheels off just stick your head under there and you can see the 2 bolts that hold them on 13 or 14mm head from memory

[Bushbasher]

Don't get me wrong here, that's an excellent "how to" and well done Woosha for making the effort and if I had to unfreeze the adjusters or change the pads I'd be right back here to follow your instructions but that's a long and tedious job which would give me the chits and not one I'd want to tackle unless absolutely necessary. When I did the 'lanes' handbrake yesterday all I did once the wheels were off ( one at a time of coarse) was pop out the rubber gromet opposite the big phillips head screw and rotated the the hole to the rear just below horizontal then just attacked the adjuster from there with a flat screwdriver. Once you've located the adjuster it's relatively easy to wind the adjusters out. I used a torch to initially spot the toothed adjuster then just did it by feel. Handbrake is perfect now and it took me all of about half and hour from when I stepped out the front door to when I went back in the house.


Bushbasher

[Uncle_Ken]

Originally Posted by Whoosha

yes I am still on holidays and was Bored Painting
calipers and hubs is optional
I also rang a mate at Ford to make sure there is no easyer way there aint, and there is no special ajusting tool either

Damm I just did my rotors and paint (nice colour LOL). Great write up.

UK

[JC]

Originally Posted by Bushbasher

Don't get me wrong here, that's an excellent "how to" and well done Woosha for making the effort and if I had to unfreeze the adjusters or change the pads I'd be right back here to follow your instructions but that's a long and tedious job which would give me the chits and not one I'd want to tackle unless absolutely necessary. When I did the 'lanes' handbrake yesterday all I did once the wheels were off ( one at a time of coarse) was pop out the rubber gromet opposite the big phillips head screw and rotated the the hole to the rear just below horizontal then just attacked the adjuster from there with a flat screwdriver. Once you've located the adjuster it's relatively easy to wind the adjusters out. I used a torch to initially spot the toothed adjuster then just did it by feel. Handbrake is perfect now and it took me all of about half and hour from when I stepped out the front door to when I went back in the house.


Bushbasher

This is also the method I have used with some success in the past - on those rare unsuccessful occasions, I have done it the "full" way as per wooshas writeup.

[Whoosha]

Originally Posted by JC

This is also the method I have used with some success in the past - on those rare unsuccessful occasions, I have done it the "full" way as per wooshas writeup.

Yep mine was stuck solid on one side that why I went the long way round :

[EvilChief]

same method applies to live axle ;)

[RG]

Added to the AU useful threads guide.

[XT221]

Thanks Whoosha!! the back part I knew but could never find anything on the handle to adjust...(I should have looked harder!!), looks like I have something to do this weekend. Cheers

[Whoosha]

: :
Just a little more info. for the ones who still wonder if they should attempt the job...Pulling it completly apart gave me a better understanding of how it all works so for me made it just a bit easyer to get my head around it ..
Here are the pictures of the caliper bolts to be removed. 15mm actually (was close)

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As others have mention some ajustment can be made through the inspection hole, (as mine had siezed it didn't help) remove the rubber grommets first, and with the help of a torch look through the hole for the adjuster , it can be found towards the rear of the car.

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The left hand side of the car turns outwards (blade to the base of the toothed adjuster and lever outwards)and is relatively easy to turn . useing a small blade screwdriver
The right hand side is the opposite (top of the adjuster rachet and screw inwards) this I found some what awkward to get any leverage on so I made a small adjuster tool from a tent peg . :
I just ground a flat blade like end to one end of it then placed it in the vice and bent it on a angle to suit what I needed, worked a treat now has been put into special tool box for next time 3 clicks on the hand brake and and your all locked up :

[5L]

nice brake paint, what colour is the blue called?

[galaxy xr8]

I think we should organise a day, and call it "Whoosha" day, where all us AU owner's can bring our beloved AU's and get whoosha to work his magic and we could have a handbrake that actually work's,lol.
It may need to be an annual event though, lolololol.

[Whoosha]

Originally Posted by AUXR8220

nice brake paint, what colour is the blue called?

Gees that would be FORD blue it is K&H Ford light blue engine enamel heat proof to 300c

Originally Posted by galaxy xr8

I think we should organise a day, and call it "Whoosha" day, where all us AU owner's can bring our beloved AU's and get whoosha to work his magic and we could have a handbrake that actually work's,lol.
It may need to be an annual event though, lolololol.

Now let me see ..about a hour a adjust straight foward .. 2 hours for seized like mine.. $50 a set 25000 AUs dam there's a money make for ya :

[galaxy xr8]

Originally Posted by Whoosha

Now let me see ..about a hour a adjust straight foward .. 2 hours for seized like mine.. $50 a set 25000 AUs dam there's a money make for ya :

I like your way of thinking, lol, don't forget the AFF discount though,

[Dauphin]

Thanks for the further pics and instructions, Whoosha.

Originally Posted by galaxy xr8

I think we should organise a day, and call it "Whoosha" day, where all us AU owner's can bring our beloved AU's and get whoosha to work his magic and we could have a handbrake that actually work's,lol.
It may need to be an annual event though, lolololol.

I have thought about a similar day where we could hire a school car park or something and we all bring our own tools and someone (ahem, Whoosha?) can show us all how to do something important that we might not feel confident enough to tackle alone. I fear that I will not be able to put things back together properly and stuff something up.

[SSD-85]

Originally Posted by Dauphin

Thanks for the further pics and instructions, Whoosha.



I have thought about a similar day where we could hire a school car park or something and we all bring our own tools and someone (ahem, Whoosha?) can show us all how to do something important that we might not feel confident enough to tackle alone. I fear that I will not be able to put things back together properly and stuff something up.

I agree dauphin, fear of screwing up is the one thing holding me back :

[galaxy xr8]

hey guy's I had a go at attempting this today and it has worked as per the way described but one question, I didn't have to take the hub off as I went through the little hole where the rubber grommet is, and used a flat blade scredriver to adjust it, but I turned it untill it wouldn't turn no more and then realised that I went to far and couldn't rotate the hub assembley, so I backed it of a little untill I could rotate the hub by hand but with some force, would this be allright or does it need to be able to spin really freely????.

[GasoLane]

Originally Posted by Whoosha

I also rang a mate at Ford to make sure there is no easyer way there aint, and there is no special ajusting tool either

Geez Whoosha there is a MUCH easier way. Do what I do.


Get in the car and take it to the 'MAN' to fix it whilst you sit down and watch the telly!

[JC]

Originally Posted by galaxy xr8

hey guy's I had a go at attempting this today and it has worked as per the way described but one question, I didn't have to take the hub off as I went through the little hole where the rubber grommet is, and used a flat blade scredriver to adjust it, but I turned it untill it wouldn't turn no more and then realised that I went to far and couldn't rotate the hub assembley, so I backed it of a little untill I could rotate the hub by hand but with some force, would this be allright or does it need to be able to spin really freely????.

It should spin freely - if it doesn't, it soon well as the brake lining will wear down as you drive (awful smell, and waste of fuel though).

[Whoosha]

Originally Posted by GasOLane

Geez Whoosha there is a MUCH easier way. Do what I do.


Get in the car and take it to the 'MAN' to fix it whilst you sit down and watch the telly!

And he wonders why he drives a "VW" for fun :togo: :
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Just sent you a PM galaxy, but JC has it coverd, I was in transit to sunny make that grey n Wet Brisvegas

[Peuty]

You in Brisbane at the moment Whoosha?

[VF805]

Thanks Whoosha for the comprehensive handbrake disassembly instructions. My AU Ghia has displayed a nasty symphony of squeals and groans for most of it's life after I drove 20 odd clicks with the brake partly on. No Ford workshop has been able to fix it although I paid several hunded dollars for parts while under warranty. I now have no handbrake at all and to stop the noise all I can do is pull up on the lever. Could you tell me what needs to be replaced please. I am no longer able to perform maintenance/repair so I would need someone in Melbourne East to do the work if any one can recommend a workshop please. Thanks.Ray.

[Gmorris]

Apart from all the adjustments mentioned above, does anyone have still have trouble with the handbrake? I have replaced the cable from the interior lever to the front of the rear axle and checked the handbrake pads which seem adjusted correctly, but the travel to get the handbrake to work is right at the end and is only just, and i mean just, holding the car. Has anyone had to replace the rear section of the cable, the one from the rear axle to each wheel?

[galaxy xr8]

^^ I have had no trouble what so ever since adjusting the handbrake, It work's a treat now and holds the vehicle solidly on any slope.

[ModelAU3]

Noise is usaully an indication that something is wrong even minor.

Rear wheel used to squeal for first 100m after a few days sitting still, pull on handbrake and it stops, I knew it was the handbrake, also rear disk rotor were originals (~160k kms) and had a groove where footbrake pads rub.

Replaced the rotors (~$100 ea) and new handbrake shoes (~$100 set) re-adjusted and now no more noise even from the foot brake (used to squeal slightly at Maccas drive through), and also braking effort to stop car is much reduced.

Try that!

[tgidog13]

I need this done on the Falcon, will ask around first for cost from a Garage before attempting it myself. thanks Woosha...

[XYwagonAU]

Hi i adjusted handbrake on my au wagon yesterday and thought i might add a small comment - apologies for any repetition


to tighten the brakes turn in a clockwise direction (as if looking from above)

so if you are working on -
-left/ drivers side, tighten by levering toward yourself

- right side, tighten by pushing away


levering the screwdriver only worked for me when turning toward myself, to turn the other way i gave the screwdriver a small tap with a hammer to turn the adjustor

cheers

[EASYBOSS]

Originally Posted by XYwagonAU

Hi i adjusted handbrake on my au wagon yesterday and thought i might add a small comment - apologies for any repetition


to tighten the brakes turn in a clockwise direction (as if looking from above)

so if you are working on -
-left/ drivers side, tighten by levering toward yourself

- right side, tighten by pushing away


levering the screwdriver only worked for me when turning toward myself, to turn the other way i gave the screwdriver a small tap with a hammer to turn the adjustor

cheers

Can someone please clarify the above bit, I'm about to attempt this on the AU wagon, but are confused about the left/drivers side above, so what side is what turn direction