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Old 02-09-2006, 09:30 PM   #61
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note when you fill the auto up again don't continue driving .
go for a drive get the engine to normal operating temp and then check again it will be low cause when you filled it there was no oil in the converter so fill again and it will be right.
2. every 90, 000 km's fuel filter replacement.
3. every 3 years change the brake fluid completely MAKE SURE YOU BLEED THEM THOUGH the bleeder is on the caliper its just a small cap thing you dont need to undo all the way though but bleed until the new fliud comes though
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Old 20-09-2006, 11:01 PM   #62
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Default What grade of oil for an au xr8 series 1 ute?

just had my ute srviced by a "reputable" service centre.Now ute hs no oil pressure at idle when in drive.They told me they used the recommended 10w30,but the utes done just on 180,000 and it never had this problem before.The oil seems to light to me ,but they are insistant its correct.In Max ellerys manual it states a different oil grade to a normal v8(wse-m2c902-a3).Does anyone know what grade this is?Thanks
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Old 23-09-2006, 01:31 AM   #63
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If by no oil pressure, do you mean 0 psi. your oil light should be lit. Are you reading this from a gauge?

Was the oil pressure ok before the service?

Did the "Reputable" service centre even put oil in the engine?

wse-m2c902-a3 - appears to be 20/60

HPR GAS
An SAE 20W-60 developed specifically for LPG fuelled cars and light commercial vehicles operating in high temperature, high speed and/or high load conditions. Also for use in fleets with both diesel and petrol cars and light commercial vehicles. Exceeds all API specifications contained in Holden HN2314 and Ford WSE M2C902-A3 LP Gas engine lubrication specifications. The additives selected minimise nitration of the oil which can occur with the combustion of LPG. Nitration reduces the oil life and in extreme cases can cause corrosion of bearing metal. Exceeds API CG-4/SL performance levels and meets those of ACEA A3/B3/B4. Non friction modified.
Available in : 1 LT, 5 LT, 10 LT, 20 LT, 60 LT, 205 LT,


Luke.
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Old 30-10-2006, 08:43 PM   #64
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dont no how true it is ,but i have herd that some ford motors have timing chain,and not a belt,like the vct tickford 6 is chain.
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Old 30-10-2006, 10:04 PM   #65
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For as long as I know ... Ford I6 motors have used a timing chain ... not sure if the X-series used them ... but i am sure they did.

Ford I6 Motors do use a rubber serpentine belt for ancilliary items (alternator, water pump, air-con, power steer, etc).
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Old 08-11-2006, 11:18 PM   #66
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Just did a trans fluid and filter change in mine. Got the service kit from Burson's but it didn't come with a pan gasket so I had to clean the old one up as best as possible (which turned out to be pretty good) and reuse it. I was surprised at the amount of gunk on the magnet and a little more surprised at the small piece of broken plastic in there.
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Old 16-12-2006, 02:48 PM   #67
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hey guys what diff oil should i use for my Au6??
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Old 09-01-2007, 01:22 PM   #68
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Default Oil and Filter

What Oil and filter would you suggest for a standard AU falcon
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Old 09-01-2007, 08:08 PM   #69
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15-40w Oil and a ACdelco Z9 Filter andrew

Joe - Get the One from ford , has the right additive in it

Man , Someone come round and show me how to do the Trans ,
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Old 14-01-2007, 03:05 PM   #70
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yeah im using 10w40 oil now seems to thinn
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Old 11-02-2007, 10:50 AM   #71
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What about the fuel filter?
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Old 12-02-2007, 01:24 PM   #72
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Default Manual.

This is probably gonna make me look like an idiot but..

Is there any maintanence required on a manual transmission? I see in the fluid list there is a fluid for the manual tranny?

And, if there is maintanence.. how 'bout a bit of a how to like on the auto? ;-)

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Old 18-02-2007, 10:44 PM   #73
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Change Fuel Filter @ 90k (As suggested by FMC service manual)
Did not really believe this myself, but did try to change filter when doing 90k service, BUT was given the incorrect fuel filter for AU3 by parts supplier, so decided in my wisdom not to do this until next service or so.[I][U]What a mistake, @ 90400 km motor cuts out, misses,farts, lucky to make it home from trip. replaced fuel filter runs, OK now, could not blow through old fuel filter, cut it apart, full of sh**. Hope the filter caughtall the sh** before the injectors.
Serves me right.
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Old 07-04-2007, 10:15 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HOF360
If by no oil pressure, do you mean 0 psi. your oil light should be lit. Are you reading this from a gauge?

Was the oil pressure ok before the service?

Did the "Reputable" service centre even put oil in the engine?

wse-m2c902-a3 - appears to be 20/60

HPR GAS
An SAE 20W-60 developed specifically for LPG fuelled cars and light commercial vehicles operating in high temperature, high speed and/or high load conditions. Also for use in fleets with both diesel and petrol cars and light commercial vehicles. Exceeds all API specifications contained in Holden HN2314 and Ford WSE M2C902-A3 LP Gas engine lubrication specifications. The additives selected minimise nitration of the oil which can occur with the combustion of LPG. Nitration reduces the oil life and in extreme cases can cause corrosion of bearing metal. Exceeds API CG-4/SL performance levels and meets those of ACEA A3/B3/B4. Non friction modified.
Available in : 1 LT, 5 LT, 10 LT, 20 LT, 60 LT, 205 LT,


Luke.





as an ex penrite employee i can tell you that HPR30 and HPR GAS are the same oil. they sell so little of the gas (compared to HPR30) that it is cheaper to put the special additive for the gas byproducts in the HPR30 blend and package off a small percentage as HPR GAS.
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Old 24-04-2007, 08:19 PM   #75
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just bought new set of spark plug leads for ser2 fairmont, man theres not much room in there on coil pack, any one done there leads go from under neath or did they remove stuff from on top
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Old 01-05-2007, 08:21 PM   #76
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Guys,

I dont drive my car as much as i used to... She's sitting around 100k now, but the suspension needs to be redone, ball joints, etc etc.

The car is IRS and has quite a hefty squeak from the rear axles (though im almost sure its just the little screw that i left out last time i did the rear brakes)

How do we go about changing the front and rear wheel bearings? Is it something better left to the pros?

Reason i am doing it is a) im towing more and more with this car
and b) Preemptive strike.
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Old 16-05-2007, 12:54 PM   #77
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I agree with Mechan1k... All my cars I replace oil & filter every 3 months regardless of mileage. The more you flush the better I recon. My old XF S-Pack has about 300,000 k's on it & it's never missed a beat. As a matter of fact it hasn't lost any of its sting & still pulling 14.7's over the 400mtrs. :evil3:
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Old 18-05-2007, 08:59 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by janek
Guys,

I dont drive my car as much as i used to... She's sitting around 100k now, but the suspension needs to be redone, ball joints, etc etc.

The car is IRS and has quite a hefty squeak from the rear axles (though im almost sure its just the little screw that i left out last time i did the rear brakes)

How do we go about changing the front and rear wheel bearings? Is it something better left to the pros?

Reason i am doing it is a) im towing more and more with this car
and b) Preemptive strike.
Front wheel bearings are a sealed unit in the hub ... you can get replacement hubs from www.ozeparts.com.au for approx $80 a side .... cheap as chips ... as for doing it ... GK had a great write-up ... well I think it was GK ... it's somewhere on here.
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Old 19-05-2007, 12:30 AM   #79
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wicked, thanks mechanik!!!!!

im still searching for the write up...

What about the rears?? i should have a look at my haynes in the morning....
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Old 19-05-2007, 12:33 AM   #80
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Not sure with IRS .... I had to do one on the ute (being live axle/leaf spring) ... it's different again.

I can tell you it wasn't a fun job with the ute rear one ... I didn't have a shot bearing ... but had a busted axle seal ... but did the bearing at the same time as it came with the replacement kit.

I haven't done a front one yet .... but I might get around to it just for the hell of it ... and see if it gets rid of the roaring noise at some speeds ... it could be my crap tyres as well though.
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Old 19-05-2007, 12:37 AM   #81
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OMG talk about super speed!!!

I imagine the irs will not be fun. it took me 6 hours to remove the cv last time (plus another 6 to remove the broken stub :S

I just want to make sure its all up to speed, and to satisfy my curiosity... The car seems to crab a little on bumpy roads, but this could be anything... shocks are old, springs, balljoints, eerything. Probably wont happen for a while!
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Old 19-05-2007, 12:57 AM   #82
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I'm on night shift .... so am online right now.

Best to take it to a suspension specialist.
If in Sydney ... it is worth the trip out to Wholesale suspension in Penrith ... they have a suspension testing machine there and do a full report as well.

They don't lock you into getting stuff done ... but will give you an approx quote on when it will cost to replace things that need doing. They are stockist of Fulcrum products as well (a site sponsor).

But that's if you are in the Sydney area though.
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Old 19-05-2007, 04:14 AM   #83
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OK .... as mentioned in another post ... I found Ronwest's How-to

http://www.fordforums.com.au/vbporta...article&id=319
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Old 28-05-2007, 09:24 AM   #84
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Default AU trans service

I just serviced my AU-2 Trans on the weekend. Trans oil 4 litres from bursons Castrol TQ-95 $34, service kit about $24. The service kit has a filter and small plastic seal, a large rubber seal for the trans pan and a O-ring for the filler bolt. The job is pretty straight forward but awkward as you are working under the car (if you have a pit or hoist no plroblems). It is very messy as oil comes out around the pan, lots of rags or news papers required. I would recomend a 600mm X 600mm pan to catch the oil (put your normal oil collecting container in the pan).
The manual says only change every 50k if you are doing heavy towing. I disagree I only do light towing sometimes and the oil that came out was black with traces of metal, so will be doing it at 25km intervals. Also when you change it, it only changes 4litres out of 10.

Question - How many magnets should be in the bottom of the pan? It looks like its supposed to have 3, mine only had one.

ALso - I have to say this is a great website I have fixed a number of problems with my car using information from here.
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Old 30-05-2007, 08:46 AM   #85
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I only have one magnet.

Don't go on the book for service intervals .. especially with these autos ... I do mine every 20,000km ... I don't leave it any longer. After just replacing my auto just before 200,000km (as I am not sure on the previous owners servicing/abuse) ... it was pressurising out of the top breather and was also leaving deposits in the pan/

It's a bloody messy job I do agree ... I do mine on the hoist at my mechanics ... if you have access to a hoist ... do it on one .. it is soooo much easier.

Also to increase transmission life ... I suggest you install an auxilliary transmission cooler as well .... it will keep the transmission running cooler with less likelihood of the fluid from burning.
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Old 01-06-2007, 09:27 PM   #86
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Thanks for that advice I have been thinking about getting one for a while, but will definetly get one now that the oil is going black from over heating. How much approx is an auto transmission for an AU-2 and what is best ie reco or recondition my old one. I may need one in 30,000k going on your experience.
I have just had another look at my manual and it says " page 145 of gregorys 9. _______ check that the oil pan magnets are located in each corner of the oil pan. That seems to mean 4, but there are only 3 small dints to locate them in. I might check with ford before I do my next service.
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Old 20-06-2007, 12:25 AM   #87
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well im coming up to my 135000 k service on my au falcon sr s3

and its a major service anyone know what they do in this service?
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Old 20-06-2007, 12:45 AM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by falconboy101
well im coming up to my 135000 k service on my au falcon sr s3

and its a major service anyone know what they do in this service?
cant tell you what ford do from the top of my head (actually scratch that, I can tell what you they WOULD do but not what they're ACTUALLY SUPPOSED to do), but if it were my car I'd be looking at renewing:

Oil + filter obviously
Air (unless you have a K&n etc)
Fuel filter
Spark Plugs + Leads
Trans service
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Old 20-06-2007, 10:00 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by falconboy101
well im coming up to my 135000 k service on my au falcon sr s3

and its a major service anyone know what they do in this service?
If you go to the "greatest car dealer in the free world" in sth melbourne,they will put a sticker on your windscreen,and take the equivelent of a months wages for the priviledge. :
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Old 27-07-2007, 05:37 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by falconboy101
well im coming up to my 135000 k service on my au falcon sr s3

and its a major service anyone know what they do in this service?
have a look in your service book it should tell ya....
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