New to cycling - Page 14

blueoval · 23-01-2012, 11:54 AM

great work by GreenEdge and Gerrans. Top week of great racing. Pity about Ch9 coverage during the week.

I rode down to Mclaren Vale Saturday morning to watch the start. Great morning. The veloway was packed, and me and the mrs were being overtaken by packs of riders with better bikes than us. We had a coffee and Bracegirdles there and then went and watched the start where everyone else was. Tonnes of other cyclists were there and probably out did regular folk 3 to 1. Had a great morning.

Yesterday did a real light spin with some friends from home to Moana and back. Had a coffee at the cafe near the SLSC there. Great morning again for a spin.

Seeing all the riders with their bikes just makes me wanna get my race bike. :P

trippytaka · 23-01-2012, 12:07 PM

I've just been riding to work (Marrickville to Crows nest - 12km) and back twice a week,. I burn 3400 calories getting there and back - it's quite hilly and take about 50min.

I'm on a Scott 29er hard tail mountain bike and have put slicks on for the commute to work. It's great. Set me back about $1100 - tyres and all other extras needed.

My advice would be to stay away from a road bike or race bike - they are too fast and you just don't get the workout you would on a hybrid or a mountain bike.

BUT DON'T GO CHEAPO on the bike. Get one with good running gear, especially if you're heavy like me. Lifestime warranty of frame and a good set of gears - the clean shifts up hills makes al the difference!

Mountain bikes are much more fun too - whack on some knobbies and head out on a trail ride on weekends with mates

blueoval · 23-01-2012, 12:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trippytaka

I've just been riding to work (Marrickville to Crows nest - 12km) and back twice a week,. I burn 3400 calories getting there and back - it's quite hilly and take about 50min.

I'm on a Scott 29er hard tail mountain bike and have put slicks on for the commute to work. It's great. Set me back about $1100 - tyres and all other extras needed.

My advice would be to stay away from a road bike or race bike - they are too fast and you just don't get the workout you would on a hybrid or a mountain bike.

BUT DON'T GO CHEAPO on the bike. Get one with good running gear, especially if you're heavy like me. Lifestime warranty of frame and a good set of gears - the clean shifts up hills makes al the difference!

Mountain bikes are much more fun too - whack on some knobbies and head out on a trail ride on weekends with mates

That's a fair call Trippy. I see where you are heading with this post.

I like the workout I get with my hybrid. I have skinny wheels on it with semi slick tires. The wheels aren't as thick as race wheels, but they are still skinny compared to a MTB.

My bike weighs in at least 14kg with all the extra gear like lights, saddle pouch, pump, and water bottles. It's a heavy bike compared to a race bike and its geared to handle hills a bit easier.

The reason I want a race bike is for when Im with the local riding club. A lot of them, if not all of them have race bikes and it can be a bit annoying for me knowing they have to either slow the pace or have someone at the back making sure I don't get left behind. Plus I like the speed and ease race bikes have for riding in general.

The hybrid I have has Deore components. Quick shifters, disc brakes and is a good sturdy ride with life time warranty on the frame. It's not the best but its the best I could afford at the time, not knowing if I was to continue with cycling in general. I tend to clock up about 50km a week riding in a mix of hills and flats where I live. So I feel as if I am getting all my workouts with this bike.

When I do get my racer bike, I will still keep the hybrid due to still being able to ride with my friends who also have hybrids and MTB. But also to keep fit with as well. Plus I want to do bigger rides than just 50km here and there. I have a plan to do the 65km of Amy's ride, and I want to do one of the BUPA legs in next years TDU.

ratter · 23-01-2012, 03:09 PM

if you think you will not get as good as a workout on a road bike, just work harder.

blueoval · 23-01-2012, 03:31 PM

very true ratter. You can always go up a gear. That said, I am already using the big cog now. So sooner or later (hopefully sooner) I'll need to upgrade.

trippytaka · 23-01-2012, 03:46 PM

All very true indeed... I would love a racer, but I stop myself because the most fun I have is a little section coming off the ANZAC bridge towards the west - an island gutter about 1m wide with gutter ramps either side.

I hit that at about 25km/h, pop about a foot of air, land, brake hard and then pop over the next gutter and through a tight corner. It's the best part of the 24km round trip, and the highlight of my working week is hitting that... can't do that on a racer

I should als point out, I'm down to 120kg (was 128kg at Chrissy)

blueoval · 23-01-2012, 03:58 PM

Hey nice job on the weight loss Trippy. Yeah racers arent good for jumps etc. But I never do jumps even with my hybrid. Jumps dont interest me like they did as a kid. Speed, efficiency and smoothness for me.

That said, Cycling Express has an awesome deal on a full carbon Azzurri Forza with Ultegra DI2's for $2600 plus delivery. A friggin steal compared to what I have seen a DI2 compo bike go for.

http://www.cyclingexpress.com/cycle/...-sold-out.aspx

sgt_doofey · 23-01-2012, 04:02 PM

Congrats on the weight loss there trippytaka. Keep working at it!
What you say about the MTB is true though. I had my brother's MTB at work and rode it 11kms from work to my cousin's house one night after work. It was so much harder riding that bike compared to riding my road bike. I reckon I was just as buggered after that 11km ride than after the 20km commute I do to work on my road bike sometimes.

trippytaka · 23-01-2012, 04:09 PM

Thanks

it's amazing how fast it falls off you when you're being really active... and you stop drinking excessively.

XR6_661 · 23-01-2012, 04:09 PM

Come grab my 20kg downhill mtb and ride 11km. See how ya feel after that.

I'd be flat out riding the thing 1km on the road.

blueoval · 23-01-2012, 05:26 PM

It's amazing how weight affects your top speed on a bike. As they say 'every gram counts'

Blue_XR · 23-01-2012, 08:51 PM

Hi Guys, well I have been riding a mountain bike for many years now and it was more just a recreational thing until i started using it to get fit and using it on a regular basis. Anyway this year I bought myself a Giant Defy 3 road bike with shimano gear set front to back. So far I have been happy with it and I am really enjoying going out in the afternoon for a ride. My route is 16.4 kms and once i get my fitness back up i'll head out for longer rides. However I might need to invest in a bike pants with a cushion.

So here is a pic of it

Now just one thing, I have already taken it back for an adjustment as when I am in the small rear sprocket and large front one the chain is rubbing on the derailleur, I had it adjusted and it was fine well maybe it could have been adjust a bit more, however it is like it has gone back to how it was. I really should take it back to the shop but I can't get back until Friday, so I was wondering if anyone could point me in the right direction ini adjusting the derailleur. I have been watching clips on youtube however they seem to make it easier than it actually is.

Basically I am unable to use the large sprocket at the front because the chain keeps on rubbing on the 4'- smallest sprockets at the back.

ratter · 23-01-2012, 09:20 PM

Have you adjusted the set limit screws on the derailleur or are you just adjusting the cable?

Do you know what cadence is?
Do you know what cadence you can do?
That gear ratio with a decent cadence would be fairly fast, with a slow road speed and that gearing you will most likely be grinding, which is bad on knees and saps your strength.

Now I may appear out of line and you may be experienced, but just trying to help

Blue_XR · 23-01-2012, 09:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ratter

Have you adjusted the set limit screws on the derailleur or are you just adjusting the cable?

Do you know what cadence is?
Do you know what cadence you can do?
That gear ratio with a decent cadence would be fairly fast, with a slow road speed and that gearing you will most likely be grinding, which is bad on knees and saps your strength.

Now I may appear out of line and you may be experienced, but just trying to help

Thanks for the reply, I am very inexperienced when it comes to this. This is a whole new learning curve for me.

I have tried adjusting the cable at the levers and I have tried adjusting it from the screws.The problem seemed to stay the same unless the cable itself needs to be loosened a bit more?

Sorry I don't know what the cadence is. Is there a way I can find that out?

I have 9 gears on the rear and obviously 3 at the front.

ratter · 23-01-2012, 10:12 PM

Cadence is how fast you are pedaling (like your car's engine has rpm)
A higher cadence is better than a low cadence, ideally you want to be at least 60 but higher if you can maintain it i.e 80+
When I started cycling again about 3 years ago I could maintain possibly a cadence of high 60's, any more and my heart rate would start to go up, on a few of my last rides I have averaged a cadence of 100-102.
Under 60 cadence is considered grinding which is bad for your knees, higher cadences are called spinning which is easier on your joints.
When grinding you are using the strength in your legs etc but it saps your energy quickly (depending on how fit you are) when you spin you use less muscle strength so can go longer, a mistake many people new to cycling make is to push too big a gear and run out of puff, we are all guilty of it at some stage

Blue_XR · 24-01-2012, 11:44 AM

I'm learning something new, its just not about getting on the bike and going for a ride. I'm assuming your cadence is measured through an electronic device?

blueoval · 24-01-2012, 12:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blue_XR

I'm learning something new, its just not about getting on the bike and going for a ride. I'm assuming your cadence is measured through an electronic device?

Yes you can add these little computers to your bike.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Wireless-...-/200678487577

sgt_doofey · 24-01-2012, 07:46 PM

$113! I paid $3 for mine off of ebay. Doesn't do cadence or heart rate though

blueoval · 24-01-2012, 08:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sgt_doofey

$113! I paid $3 for mine off of ebay. Doesn't do cadence or heart rate though

Haha. Well the Cadence HR part of it is where the cost is mate. Anywhere else I have seen prices up to $250. I thought $113 wasn't too bad considering these features.

For those who followed the TDU over the weekend. Here are some funny snap shots during the stages and up Willunga Hill.

http://api.ning.com/files/8f-RtaJdmV...ercisebike.jpg

HLC · 25-01-2012, 05:55 PM

you guys want a work out???

Ride those hills with a big gear, fixed/brakeless.

Give me anything with gears for riding hills lol 5kg weight weenie bike or a 20kg downhill bike. Anything is better than hitting hills on a track bike. Push hard grinding up up, no rest spinning out at max rpm going down.

In reference to Garmin's with cadence/hr monitors, I jumped on my mates roadie on a turbo trainer (broken collar bone after a crash so he cant ride properly). Didn't put the HR monitor on, but my max cadence was approx 157rpm in the biggest gear (52/11) which equated to about 85-88 kph? I was happy with that. Next time ill wind down the resistance so its easier to wind up the RPM. Either that or use the gears to get there lol accelerating from a stand still was PAINFUL. Going to order a 500 with HR monitor off wiggle when i get the cash together/sell some bike parts LOL

blueoval · 25-01-2012, 05:59 PM

Im surprised you don't do yourself damage going full pelt down hills Henri. I can't imagine the kind of leg control you would need to pull up a fixie from a 60kph downhill stretch.

ratter · 25-01-2012, 07:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HLC

you guys want a work out???

. Going to order a 500 with HR monitor off wiggle

Highly Tuned Athletes, normally have great prices on the garmin, I got mine from them when they were first released and they were cheaper at the time than any one else on the net that I could find including OS, I have made 4 purchases from them in total and had great service and very prompt delivery each time

HLC · 27-01-2012, 04:40 PM

Cheers Ratter, will check them out!

kocho · 30-01-2012, 05:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blue_XR

Hi Guys, well I have been riding a mountain bike for many years now and it was more just a recreational thing until i started using it to get fit and using it on a regular basis. Anyway this year I bought myself a Giant Defy 3 road bike with shimano gear set front to back. So far I have been happy with it and I am really enjoying going out in the afternoon for a ride. My route is 16.4 kms and once i get my fitness back up i'll head out for longer rides. However I might need to invest in a bike pants with a cushion.

I have a Giant Defy 3, but the 2011 model. Great bike - my first road bike. I changed the saddle straight away though. I found the one that came with mine was just far too hard. And, I got padded shorts.

trippytaka · 30-01-2012, 06:13 PM

Went for a 33km offroad adventure through KurinGai national park on the weekend. It was very muddy! And I bent a rim, badly.

blueoval · 30-01-2012, 07:07 PM

you must have had some serious fun there Trippy. haha

A mate of mine wants to get into road cycling. Has a mongoose MTB at the moment, and wants to keep it still. I've been telling him to possibly look for good condition second hand road bikes with carbon forks and decent gearset. Seen a few on bike exchange for well under 1k in local area which is decent. Saves him forking out big $ for something he may or may not like.

Thoughts?

SM1DY · 30-01-2012, 11:22 PM

Hunting for my first dedicated road bike, only had BMX and mountain bikes before this and they were never anything special. I've got it narrowed to 2 bikes

Giant Defy 1

Scott Speedster S20

I'm swaying towards the Scott, but I couldn't find one on bike exchange at this price that is on the Gold Coast. I'm open to different brands and models, but my main goal is to get quality and something suitable to my amateur status.

blueoval · 31-01-2012, 01:39 PM

They aren't bad mate. Both have 105 compo set and carbon forks. Reasonably priced too.

Have a look at this one
http://www.bikeexchange.com.au/bicyc.../qld/100182014

Comes with free full kit, road shoes, cateye computer and helmet included in price.

Bike has 105 front D, but Tiagra rear D which is still good as an entry level bike. Weighs in at bit over 9kg which isn't heavy but not light either.

Food for thought. Really comes down to if/when you decide to upgrade.

blueoval · 31-01-2012, 04:05 PM

Spotted this in an email today.

HASA branded frame, 105's with Tiagra cassette, full carbon frame, Mavic Aksium wheels. All for under $1500!
http://us2.campaign-archive1.com/?u=...6&e=315f77768d

blackf6 · 31-01-2012, 04:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blue_XR

Hi Guys, well I have been riding a mountain bike for many years now and it was more just a recreational thing until i started using it to get fit and using it on a regular basis. Anyway this year I bought myself a Giant Defy 3 road bike with shimano gear set front to back. So far I have been happy with it and I am really enjoying going out in the afternoon for a ride. My route is 16.4 kms and once i get my fitness back up i'll head out for longer rides. However I might need to invest in a bike pants with a cushion.

So here is a pic of it

image

Now just one thing, I have already taken it back for an adjustment as when I am in the small rear sprocket and large front one the chain is rubbing on the derailleur, I had it adjusted and it was fine well maybe it could have been adjust a bit more, however it is like it has gone back to how it was. I really should take it back to the shop but I can't get back until Friday, so I was wondering if anyone could point me in the right direction ini adjusting the derailleur. I have been watching clips on youtube however they seem to make it easier than it actually is.

Basically I am unable to use the large sprocket at the front because the chain keeps on rubbing on the 4'- smallest sprockets at the back.

When you first buy a bike they need adjustment very soon after a bit of riding as the cables stretch. And the lower gearset on your bike also needs adjustment more often that is why better gear sets cost more. I have 105 gearset and you can adjust it on the fly by only giving the gear change lever a half push it is excellent.