Pete's complete rebuild (hope it works).

[NeishaXR8_347]

Did you use moly or cast rings when you built it pete? molys take a bit more to bed in and you will find after about 5000kays is when it feels its best. I think i read somewhere you put acl race series so you will have molys.

[EB Pete]

Originally Posted by neishaxr8

Once you undo the head bolts you may aswell throw them in the bin they will be useless. Once they have been torqued up and then undone they are stretched and throw aways thats why they need to be replaced. Also with the oil its to early to put in semi syn yet, just get a good mineral oil, put in a semi syn after about 5000kays and full at the next service. i would get a good 15w 50 or something close.

Shaun.

so if i don't undo them and just tighten them up say 30 degrees more that would be allright? also thanks for the tips on the oil!


pete j

[OED666]

from memory, i thought you do up head bolts to a certain Nm, and then its 2x 45 degrees... starting from the inside working from 3,4,2,5,1,6 cylinders...

diff is a little expensive, i wouldnt have thought it would cost that much. i would go the slippa though.

throtttle cable is easy. there are 2 13mm bolts in the foot well, you will need a deep socket, undo the pedal, undo the clip on the throttle body, (dont lose the clip, make sure you hand is over it so you dont lose it. i lost 2 in one day.) then pull the cable through the footwell. installation is the reverse. I have gone through about 5 in as many years. :(

make sure its away from your extractors, as the heat will stuff it in a very short time.

i am interested in more pics when you install your p/s oil cooler

40+90 degrees is for E-series headgaskets.

i thought AU ones required the AU specs? 30+120 degrees?

[EB Pete]

Originally Posted by neishaxr8

Did you use moly or cast rings when you built it pete? molys take a bit more to bed in and you will find after about 5000kays is when it feels its best. I think i read somewhere you put acl race series so you will have molys.

yeah i used ACL race series pistons and used the rings that came with em. so am i running her in properly by going up hills at about 50-70km/h in 3rd/4th (btr auto)?

other then that you have boosted my confidence in her cause she aint performing the best at the moment!


pete j

[NeishaXR8_347]

I wouldn't touch the bolts at all if there is a leak so early on something has gone wrong, are you sure its not that the oil is so clean you cant see it coming from the rocker cover? or the half moon at rear off head? when its cool put your hand behind and see if shes not making her way around and fooling you. Yeh the rings in the race series kit are molys and take a bit more to settle into their new home then the casties that ford use. Also with the beding in that your doing sounds good just dont let it idle for more then about a minute because it will glaze up the bores and will never make a good seal and use oil and all sorts of things, when its idling the rings have no load on them and wont wear in thats why you dont want a semi syn yet because you want this engine to wear itself in and with the friction modified oils it will basically have a layer of the oil additives they use and wont bed in.

[NeishaXR8_347]

But dont worry its not the sort of wear that happens after 300000kms of use. just enough to marry the rings and bore on the same angles and that.

Shaun.

[EB Pete]

Originally Posted by neishaxr8

But dont worry its not the sort of wear that happens after 300000kms of use. just enough to marry the rings and bore on the same angles and that.

Shaun.

well you have made me worry now. it has been idleing a bit cause i was trying to set the timing properly and idle, cause it would just stall when you put in drive. it has actually been useing abit of oil so what do i do now? put it under more load or is it to far gone and won't make a difference?

pete j

[NeishaXR8_347]

No your reading to much into this lol! 1 min to warm up but you would have to have it idling for more then 10 mins at once to cause long term damage, with it using oil it because your rings arent properly bedded in yet a 500kms they wont have done much wearing yet so are causing some blowby and wasted power but this is perf normal and will change and you will see for yourself that the oil consumption will continue to slow down and will stop using oil by i would say between 3000-5000kms. No matter what anyone says dont put in semi syn cause then you will use oil until you build it again.

Shaun.

[NeishaXR8_347]

Remember engines that get driven hard will in most cases use some oil. but not excessive amounts.

Shaun.

[EB Pete]

thanks for the help neishaxr8!


well i got the new throttle cable in today and the new steering pump. yet to take it up past 4500rpm but the throttle body is actually opening fully and it feels alot different. anyway tomorrow its going on the dyno to get the cam dialed in properly and the timing set up to match so should go abit better.

other then that i'm just working on the cooling design for the tranny,power steer and motor. i've thought of a few things just need to find out about them. so does anyone know if the btr's have a temp sensor in them?

pete j

[ebs_4l]

yes, they do have a temp sensor

[efgiar]

Originally Posted by EB Pete

thanks for the help neishaxr8!


well i got the new throttle cable in today and the new steering pump. yet to take it up past 4500rpm but the throttle body is actually opening fully and it feels alot different. anyway tomorrow its going on the dyno to get the cam dialed in properly and the timing set up to match so should go abit better.

other then that i'm just working on the cooling design for the tranny,power steer and motor. i've thought of a few things just need to find out about them. so does anyone know if the btr's have a temp sensor in them?

pete j

yes they do, should be a black/white wire and a yellow wire on ur loom to the gearbox

[EB Pete]

hi all,

well i have proof that it is slow! the cam got dialed in today and heres the end result:




the top line is the cam at 0 degrees which made 178rwhp
middle line is 4 degrees retard which made 172rwhp
and the bottom 4 derees advance which made 166rwhp

the timing was set at a total of 27 degrees advance, the air fuel started out at 10:1and went up to 14:1 at the peak (don't really know what a good air fuel mix is?)
the dyno was done with the car in 2nd gear (btr auto), i thought 3rd gear was the best ratio to dyno it on?

also got another quote for the diff which was $1000 drive in drive out but if i take the whole rear out of the car and give it to em they said it wouldbe about $150 cheaper.

so i'm in the market for a biggest cam i can go that will not require fly cutting the pistons, work with a 2400 - 2500rpm stally and work around 2200rpm for highway driving.

pete j

i would go a dev5 cam, will make a huge difference i reckon. that baby cam you got is rubbish for the type of rebuild you done. youve set it up good for an agressive cam.i dont know other equivelants i know wade have 1521a but i think there out of billet cams at the moment but they are pretty wild and would defiently need some sort of aftermaket ecu tuning or piggy back setup ie unichip.

as for the diff, your better off letting them do the lot. $150 remove and refit isnt that bad a price.

[BI6TIM]

EB Pete, what sort of diff are you looking for? I would sugest you get on to adxr8 about it, he should be able to get you what you want much cheaper than $1000.
As for the cam, do your research man, there are alot of cams available now. I would recomend trying to 'not' go down the beaten track, look around and you'll find that there are some excelent options (other than JMM and Wade) available.

[EB Pete]

well i'm nearly at breaking piont with my car!

it throw the alterantor belt tonight, pulled over and it had got into the red on the temp gauge. so i had to replace it in the rain and now it's low on coolent!

also worked out that the car is making it's most hp at only 4200rpm WTF!

[ebs_4l]

Originally Posted by EB Pete

also worked out that the car is making it's most hp at only 4200rpm WTF!

mmmmm, that is absolutely normal... i was up against that problem with my crow stg 3 back a couple of years ago.

i used to read stories of all these people making max power at 5500rpm, and revving to 55-5800rpm no probs.. i used to hear that all the time, but my max power was always, as you say, at 4200rpm..

these sized cams just arent big enough to make power over 5000rpm, although, now, with my new cam and my turbo, my power climbs all the way to revlimit of 5800, no dropping off there

spitting belts is normal too.... LOL, you usually spit the p/s belt with a few revs, so make 100% sure you try get the pulley on your p/s pump lined up with the crank, as for spitting the alt/w/pump belt, i have broken one before, but they tend to break more than just come off, whereas the p/s belt will spin itself off...

i had mine come off twice the other week since its an old belt, two times i found it sitting under the bonnet still

[EB Pete]

Originally Posted by ebs_4l

mmmmm, that is absolutely normal... i was up against that problem with my crow stg 3 back a couple of years ago.

i used to read stories of all these people making max power at 5500rpm, and revving to 55-5800rpm no probs.. i used to hear that all the time, but my max power was always, as you say, at 4200rpm..

these sized cams just arent big enough to make power over 5000rpm, although, now, with my new cam and my turbo, my power climbs all the way to revlimit of 5800, no dropping off there

spitting belts is normal too.... LOL, you usually spit the p/s belt with a few revs, so make 100% sure you try get the pulley on your p/s pump lined up with the crank, as for spitting the alt/w/pump belt, i have broken one before, but they tend to break more than just come off, whereas the p/s belt will spin itself off...

i had mine come off twice the other week since its an old belt, two times i found it sitting under the bonnet still

yeah the alternator belt was stuffed and was always slipping.

so what do you rekomend i do from here? bigger cam and computer get me up to around 160rwkw?

[efgiar]

as aaron said, that power is pretty good considering its a btr if u want a bit step up in power then go for a t5 or consider a 6 speed from mal wood, would go like **** off a shovel

[EB Pete]

righto it's diff time. before i done all the work it the revs were 1850-1900 at 100km/h after the rebuild i'm sitting at about 2100! all i can think of is the stall which is 2500rpm with lock up but i can't see how that would change it?

so if i go 3.7 diff gears what should i expect to see on the tacho at 100km/h?

[ebs_4l]

according to my rough calc, id say 2350rpm, based on it being 2100 now, thats with a 3.27 ratio now, if you have a 3.08 itd be more like 2500

[EB Pete]

Originally Posted by ebs_4l

according to my rough calc, id say 2350rpm, based on it being 2100 now, thats with a 3.27 ratio now, if you have a 3.08 itd be more like 2500

thats not too bad. thanks for that ebs 4l, how did ya work it out?

[OED666]

revs @ 100 / current diff ratio, then x new diff ratio

eg

2100 / 3.27 = 642.201

642.201 * 3.7 = 2376 rpm

[EB Pete]

thanks paul. so anyone got a reason for my 100km/h rev rise?

[BOOSTDEF]

Mine rose with the stally. Sits at about 2100-2200 with a 3.08

[EB Pete]

Originally Posted by BOOSTDEF

Mine rose with the stally. Sits at about 2100-2200 with a 3.08

what did it use to sit at? also the gearbox won't change into 4th if i put it in 1st and stall it up. anyone had any problems with this happening?

[BOOSTDEF]

Yes my box is doing the exact same thing.. It only started after shift kit and stally was put in.

I cant totally remember what it sat at, 1900 or something..

I think it wont change into 4th as its going into LHM for some reason. mine goes into LHM if i stall it up in D, but is fine when i stall it up in 1st. Not sure in your case though, but LHM does act a short time after i stall it up, and it just stays in 3rd gear.

[EB Pete]

Originally Posted by BOOSTDEF

Yes my box is doing the exact same thing.. It only started after shift kit and stally was put in.

I cant totally remember what it sat at, 1900 or something..

I think it wont change into 4th as its going into LHM for some reason. mine goes into LHM if i stall it up in D, but is fine when i stall it up in 1st. Not sure in your case though, but LHM does act a short time after i stall it up, and it just stays in 3rd gear.

yeah mine will go into limp home mode if i stall it up in d aswell. my top speed is around 180km/h if i stall it up in 1st now. it will chage back to 2nd and 1st still but won't go to 4th unless i pull over and turn it off. so if change the diff gears to 3.7's my top speed will be around 160km/h e .


pete j

[BOOSTDEF]

yeh thats wierd. Mine will always go into 4th eventually.

What type of shift kit are you using? Definately take it back mate, because there is obviously a fault there somewhere.