Quote:
Originally Posted by goz007
Hello Alan thanks for the reply, a few questions if I may, did u have to heat the crank bolt to remove it?(from what I've seen the crank pulley needs to come off if so did u replace crank bolt & what did u use to hold crank to re-tension?) With the water pump being in such bad shape was the car running hot or having temperature fluctuating? Was there anything else u needed to change such as cam seals or cam chains or front crank seal? How much did the belt kit cost(did u get a belt & new tensioner, tensioner bolt)& what brand belt did u use? (I believe OEM belt is Gates)
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Hi, I got the belt kit from Autobarn, it's a Dayco kit and came with a new bolt, seals for the crankshaft and camshaft, tensioner and idler. Cost $430. I looked on ebay but there really wasn't much there to suit, and not much difference in price. Plus I was in a hurry and Autobarn said I'd have it in two days.
Yes, the car was overheating. The pump really wasn't working at all, so the engine would overheat, go into limp mode, yet the temp guage showed 60 degrees.
I used a heat gun to heat the bolt to about 120c, and a cordless rattle gun to remove the bolt. The crank seal and cam seal were good, so I left them alone.
I tighted the bolt with the rattle gun, and checked it with a breaker bar. I just used the 8mm drill bit I used to lock the cam to hold it all while tightening up.
Before and after tightening I checked the paint mark on the flywheel against the bellhousing.