Right, well I have successfully replaced the clutch in this car. I did this almost completely by myself, save for refitting the gearbox up onto the spline, which is a two person job. The box is difficult to manoeuvre around the suspension lower arm, and it took a lot of wriggling and lifting to do.
I did not take enough photos or document every step for a how to, otherwise this post would be about 20 pages long, but I thought I'll post up a bit here to help provide a bit of guidance for others.
I followed the Ford Workshop manual which is downloadable, just google it.
It's mostly correct, and no, I didn't require any special tools, which were mainly used to support the engine and gearbox and would make life easier. A couple of jacks did it for me. I did fork out for a clutch alignment tool $35 from Supercheap, but you could probably do without it.
There was also a wide variety in pricing for this clutch kit - shop around! I bought it without the slave cylinder.
In short - if you follow the manual you'll do OK. Most of the bolts come off relatively easily, the worst is the ones for the cable brackets under the coil pack. I didn't bother undoing the exhaust/cat bolts. Probably safer to do this but I had no trouble leaving it connected.
Deep socket set is highly recommended. Buy some gearbox oil too, you will lose some. The old stuff was black, and it took about 1.5 litres. The manual doesn't show you where the filler hole is it's under the linkage cable cover in the photo below (The black bolt with the hex socket).
These came apart pretty easy, just undo the retaining bolt and lever down the lower arm with a screwdriver:
I didn't get the flywheel machined as it felt dead smooth and looked in good condition. Since the car has only just started having signs of a worn clutch (slip on clutch release) there wasn't any damage. I didn't 'rough it up' with any sandpaper or anything, just gave it a clean with brake cleaner. There's no shudder or problem driving with the new clutch:
Worn clutch:
Bleeding the clutch was fun too, there's no mention in the manual really on how to do this. I used a standard 6mm hose and container. You have to take off the little rubber plug on the bleeder nipple, then rotate the white plastic plug anticlockwise to open the nipple. No tools required, no nut. Then have someone pump the pedal, and twist to lock it off. Apparently it's self venting, so if there are any air bubbles these will clear in normal driving. It did not affect the brakes at all.
So, it can be done without special Ford tools, just hard yakka. Either it used to be easier on older vehicles, or maybe my memory has blanked out the bad bits from years ago! At least on the old cars then was way less wiring looms and stuff in the way to make things hard to get to.
It's not a job I'd want to do again in a hurry and not for the feint-hearted, but it wasn't too bad if you're reasonably mechanically minded. Two people should knock it over in a couple of days though.
Take photos, and keep the bolts together for each part. There's a lot of them.
Hope this helps someone.
Ken