Quote:
Originally Posted by Mondaveo
Update. I ordered a right-angle OBDII connector like rondeo described in another thread, which arrived from Hong Kong this week. Unfortunately my OBDLink MX seems not to like it, as it loses visibility to many modules and Forscan reports CAN Error 57; I'm guessing it's due to poor-quality cable. Any tips on where to get a known good one from?
I've been driving around using my smartphone to log data for GISS, RPM, gear selection and some others. My hope is these will show up if anything is misbehaving and something (like a sensor) is on the way out; as well as the scan tool giving better information if I experience another loss of power event. Happily, no breakdowns... though I have had a couple of occasions where the Powershift had to hunt for gears or shifted harshly. I haven't got further than a cursory look at my data for those yet tho.
Oddly, I noticed last night that several DTCs had come back since I cleared them, including P0715 on my TCM 
Again, not sure exactly when that occurred (unfortunately I cleared my Forscan log that might have narrowed it down) but it looks like it might be a persistent problem. Is there a way to set Forscan to immediately alert when a DTC pops up?
I also had ACM "lost communication" and TRM "configuration incompatible" again (the latter recurs immediately when I clear it) and another "Circuit Short To Battery Or Open", this time on my driver's mirror (last time it was the passenger door central locking).
The 'Low battery' alert also came up on my cluster again, so the car is back on the trickle charger. (I bus to work, so it doesn't get driven on the weekdays.) I don't know if it's right or accurate, but the BATT_VOLT PID on the BCMii showed it sitting at 12.10 - 12.15 V (also ECU voltage is 12.00V and there were a couple others that showed 12.38V).
Is this starting to look like a basket case?  |
If the battery was tested OK then why is it low?
Did the tech check the generator output?
For DIY 'no load' battery voltage should be 12.
4V upwards. Normally when cranking the engine this will fall to about 11V. A digital multimeter with min/max function or a good analogue meter can be used. If the battery is low and the voltage falls below 9V, the computer will not function normally and may then give electrical fault DTCs?
If the generator and battery test OK and the battery still goes flat then potentially there is a 'parasitic drain' ie a constant abnormal drain when car not in use. This would require an auto electrician to check.
I think there is an issue generally with the trailer module, both my cars have always had a DTC there, it's sort of reassuring actually.
The DLC extension cable should be connected pin for pin. You need a spare plug and socket and a multimeter to do a wiggle test.
I'd start with a new battery anyway and check the voltage at the terminals once a week if a fault is suspected.