Buying the dry sump system is only half the cost. By the time I had it up and working I reckon it owes me 7k, and I'm still making regular changes to improve its effeciency. As you can see from the above shots I mounted the Petterson oil filter on the inner guard. This created some massive harmonics that reverbed through the entire body. I ended up tossing the engine tie down and mounting the filter on the front of the head and fitting indestructable engine mounts. Problem solved. Theres a fortune in aircraft fittings in the system and you still need the biggest and best sump possible or oil whip still occurs. I'm still using the one we made to be a prototype and were going to copy it in aluminium, but it looks good and works great so stuck with it. I run a crank scraper -
and the sump is as big as possible and runs a diamond screen. The 15L sump is in the boot and I run seamless 1 inch id steel tube straight to the front of the car through the floor. Works too well as if the car sits for a couple of weeks I end up with 12L of oil in the sump(rear seal doesnt like this!). I just take off the belt and return the oil to the sump by hand(this also primes the engine).
I dont think I would go this way again; if I was building a hi rev engine I would use what greencapri408 recommended -
http://www.titanspeed.com/content/pu...portwet01.html
Good luck with your project, I look forward to seeing it on the forum!