Quote:
Originally Posted by Day-mow
My VCT Solenoid is leaking. To replace its $299. Anyone pulled it apart, to replace internal O-ring or anything, to reseal it? Any feedback would rule.
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GUIDE to VCT Solenoid-Housing Seal replacement & Solenoid swap for Ford AUII Falcon XR6, Fairmont Ghia:
Ford Part / Tools:
-Valve Assembly Solenoid ERT6503A $255
-O-Ring V890155S100 $20
-Teflon Sealing Ring ERT6C262A $10
-Banjo-Bolt Washers X2 $6
-Rocker-Cover Gasket Kit $60
-Loctite587 Silicone Gasket Maker $26
-10mm Socket
-13mm Socket
-22mm Socket, Spanner or Ring-Spanner
-27mm Spanner or Ring-Spanner
1.Remove Rocker-Cover, (remove Spark-Plug Leads, Cold-Air Intake, Vacuum Hose, Throttle/Cruise-Control Cable, etc. then
undo four Rocker-Cover Bolts with 13mm socket. Lift the Rocker-Cover up vertically. Lift the rear up and forward until it clears internals).
2.Undo Banjo Bolt with 22mm socket. KEEP the TWO WASHERS. Ford don't sell them anymore.
I reused mine until i find better aftermarket washers.
3.Disconnect Electrical Clip from end of Valve Assembly Solenoid, (i disconnect car battery first).
4.Undo Valve Assembly Solenoid with 27mm Ring Spanner.
5.Undo three bolts under the Solenoid-Housing with 10mm socket. Pull the Solenoid-Housing forwards and off.
Lift up and twist the Housing past the oil line. Clean Solenoid-Housing and Rocker-Cover with Brake-Cleaner.
6.Remove Teflon Sealing Ring from centre of Solenoid-Housing. Find the split in the teflon ring and pull it apart so you can remove it.
Refit new Teflon Sealing Ring. Do not bend it much, just enough to get it on.
7.Remove the O-Ring from the Solenoid-Housing. A guitar-plectrum or thin screw-driver will assist you in prying the O-Ring out
enough for you to get you fingers on it. Fit the new O-Ring carefully. Ensure no twist in the ring.
8.Add a thin layer of Loctitie587 the bottom of the Solenoid-Housing, around the base of the O-Ring and around the 5 holes.
Add some to the underside of the three bolts that go into these holes.
9.Refit Solenoid-Housing carefully. Tighten the three 10mm bolts allowing the sealant to squeeze out.
Refit the 22mm Banjo-Bolt and the two washers.
10. Refit Valve Assembly Solenoid carefully. Do not tighten too much. Bit more than hand-tight will keep
the washer from getting too compressed. Reconnect the electrical plug to the Valve Assembly Solenoid.
11.Remove old gasket from Rocker-Cover and clean the groove of oil.
Add a thin layer of Loctite587 to the groove then fit the new Gasket slowly into the groove.
Start at the front of engine so the fit is best at that spot, (it is above the Solenoid-Housing).
Replace the Rocker-Cover very gently so not to damage anything or knock-out the gasket.
HAND-TIGHTEN the FOUR 13mm BOLTS ONLY. Then let it sit for an hour and tighten 1/4 to 1/2 turn more.
The torque for the cover is meant to be 17-18Nm but that may squash your new gasket,
and your new O-Ring, flat, making it leak oil. Tighten evenly and gradually. Nip a bit tighter if required.
12.Refit Spark-Plug Leads, Hoses, Cables, Negative Battery Terminal, etc.
Let car sit for 24hours if you want the Loctite587 to be fully cured.
Warm-up engine and check for leaks from Solenoid, Banjo-Bolt, Solenoid Housing and from Rocker-Cover Gasket.
Tighten if leaks detected.
