it's been a while since the last real update.
Why??
well, lots of reasons really.
First off, im flat out at work (job one we'll call it) it is arvo shift but we do 10 to 12 hour days 6 days a week.
Second is i have a second job, part time in the mornings, building cars fro customers, we only do the metal work, no bog and paint work.
Thirdly is this laptop crashed and has taken a while to sort out. lost all photos taken from janury on...
OK, what been doing with the coupe???
Early in the year i fixed a few issues with the fans and idler pulley as said in an earlier post. No photos to post up as they were lost in the crash.
since then, i pulled the car down for a massive detail for all ford day. Then it rained on the day and i chickened out (hail scares me)
Then a quick cleanup saw us show the car at Motorex in sydney, in july
Big shout out to Uncleraggy, who i caught up with out there.
Then the next thing on the calendar was (is) Echuca.
This is also running in parralel with getting the car engineered for full road rego.
So the list of mods for rego is as follows;
Noise (exhast and induction)
Height (95mm ground clearence at the moment)
No hoses to heater box ( therefore no working demister)
No brake fail light on dash board.
Brake pedal pressure too high ( stops well, but you gotta push hard)
Only a two seater (my boy came along 2 years after the interior was completed)
lastly, carbies though th bonnet.
Some other minor issue are,
Ive got a cheap set of air horns the need to be swapped out for rego, the clip that holds the secondary wiper arm on was missing and the hoses to the washer jets were cut ,they are now on the bonnet, for the last photo shoot ( those shot were never used but
:
: )
So where am i up to.
I made a sweet set of stainless heater hoses and topped that off with a hand made billet heater hose tap. These are sattached solid to the motor and i used earls line to the heater box.
This brings up a few problems]
1 you cant buy stainless steel weld on fittings for the earls line.
2 you cant buy an adaptor to the heaterbox tubes that is neat
3 i had no idea if the heater box core leaked ( didnt think to pressure test it before the interior went in)
So i made some weld on fittings out of 316 stainless for the hard line and some brass ones for the heater box!!
Im thinking of making a few sets of the brass ones and selling them.
They solder onto the copper pipe that goes to the heater, look better than just hose or braided line with a hose clamp. Will probley come out to $20 to $22.50 each.
i'll get some photos up as soon as i can.
I chopped the copper pipe as far back towards the fire wall as possible to make a neat install. this , of course, ment that the heat box needed to come out, so i could get the oxy in to make a good solder joint. This ment the console had to come out to get the heater out, wich ment the flat floor needed to come out and the passanger side seat as well because there are no fasteners holding the console and floor in, only a very tight fit and the seat frame!!!
Few!!... im not even going to mention the amount of wiring need to be moved!
so i pulled the heat box apart pulled the heater core out and silver soldered the new fittings on. Next thing was to pressure test the heater core ( dont want coolant and rust on the interior, eh!)
D'oh. the core leaks....
Couldnt get a good second hand one, so $200 later i now have a new old stock core and some nice fittings. at least it doesnt leak.
in the process of putting the new hoses in the car i took the dizzy cap and button off to help gain access to the block, (it needed to be tapped out to acept the new screw in fittings for the lines). I broke the rotor button. dont ask how cause i dont really know.
Now this didnt seem to be a big issue at all, untill i tryed to buy one.
This seems a good place to stop. ill finish the story latter. Does any one want to guess how we got around the problem ( ecept fattass, he already knows)????