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Old 06-08-2005, 07:01 PM   #1
Racecraft
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Default Reco window switches (tutorial)

Here is a quick tutorial for those that aren't overly confident of tackling the job without pictures

Pop a flat blade screw driver under the cover panel and lift it up and forwards, the cover panel complete with switches will lift up


Squeeze the tabs on the connectors until the switches and panel is free from the door trim


Using the base of the screwdriver, pop the switch out (sorry for the crappy image)


Insert the screwdriver into the side of the switch and gently level the housing over the locating tab on the switch button... Repeat on the other side


Here you can see the contact strips, the switch and the housing


A close up of the contacts, see the black gunk, we want to remove all that and have nice clean fresh contacts (I only did mine recently so there is no loose debris floating around in the housing. Don't be suprised if you have never dismantled them before to find lint,fluff and dirt in the housing. Tip the housing upside down and tap it all out. A tissue on the end of the screwdriver works well too)


All nice and clean, expose some bare metal using the corner of the screwdriver to scrape the contacts




To assemble you simply put the contact strips back in the housing ** note there are locating tabs in the housing that line up with the notches on each strip so they will only go in one way.
Fit the switch back onto the housing by locating one round tab then wiggling the switch button down into the housing until the other locator pops into place.

Then gently push the complete switch into the cover until it clicks, reconnect the loom then try all the windows.. If it is all good refit the cover into the arm rest until it pops into place.

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Old 07-08-2005, 09:44 PM   #2
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Tibbo Success. Thanks for the Tutorial, if it wasnot for this I would of broken something. Anyway thanks.
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Old 07-08-2005, 10:37 PM   #3
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its a good tutorial, its such a common problem with AU's and its such an easy fix.
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Old 08-08-2005, 12:23 AM   #4
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Nice work Tibbo, I have been thinking about doing this for about the last 2 years.

I'd be confident to give it a crack now, thanks
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Old 08-08-2005, 12:34 AM   #5
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Good to see graet advice as these switches cost an arm and a leg to replace one of my mates showed me how to fix mine its simple process and helpful for forum members
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Old 10-08-2005, 08:06 PM   #6
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What problem does this fix? Switches not working/slowness?
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Old 10-08-2005, 08:08 PM   #7
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not working, working sometimes, working from one switch but not the other..
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Old 10-08-2005, 08:12 PM   #8
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Ahhhh I see, good job, sounds like just what I needed.
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Old 11-08-2005, 08:56 PM   #9
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Very good work Tibbo , this should go in the workshop section :
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Old 18-10-2006, 08:55 PM   #10
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Thanks! This tutorial is exactly what I was looking for.

I didn't actually have to take the whole switch module from the main panel after removing the whole thing from the door trim... I just unclipped the 'see-saw' switch straight away to gain access to the metal pins inside.

I couldn't believe how much black 'grease' actually gets built up in there...

Anyway, this has saved me a fair bit of money mate, so thankyou again!

Cheers!
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Old 18-10-2006, 11:42 PM   #11
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Hi frangga (interesting name)
Got your miners hat on?

Welcome to the forums.
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Old 03-02-2007, 07:00 PM   #12
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i have a problem where the switch gets stuck down in one direction (down or up) (and its not the auto down function!).

any ideas? i've tried bending the little contacts (seems like they provide the spring pressure) to no avail.

HELP!
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Old 03-02-2007, 07:24 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by galapogos01
i have a problem where the switch gets stuck down in one direction (down or up) (and its not the auto down function!).

any ideas? i've tried bending the little contacts (seems like they provide the spring pressure) to no avail.

HELP!
make sure the little white 'posts' are the same length and still have a small'ish piont on the end..

They can wear down and eventually not be long enough to reset the button
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Old 03-02-2007, 08:06 PM   #14
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hmm..

they dont seem worn.. and they have some grease on them..

now ive ****** the child lock button, and i cant see a way to put it back in without desoldering the whole button assembly...

damn engineers!
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Old 03-02-2007, 08:26 PM   #15
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I done this with just a key. Sitting in the ute, waiting for it to stop raining lol...
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Old 03-02-2007, 09:30 PM   #16
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Great tutorial Tibbo, cheers!

I agree that it should be in the Technical section, as before long the thread will be buried!

PM it to Russ I reckon!

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Old 03-02-2007, 11:56 PM   #17
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now for one on replacing the globes in the window switches??
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Old 04-02-2007, 02:22 AM   #18
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I was gonna say, replacing the globes would be nice (although they may not be in the low series window switches) because two out of four of my drivers switch panel are dark :(
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Old 04-02-2007, 03:09 AM   #19
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Nice tutorial mate , i'll just add 1 more tip to the list . Also applying a thin smear of vasaline to the contact points stops the contacts from sparking and burning out black ( hence causing the need to rescrape the contact surfaces occasionally ). Although the vaseline aids in dust build up slightly, it prevents contact burnout and the switch will last a lifetime. Ususally its a dry burned contact that will cause more problems than a contact vaselined with heavy dust buildup ;) . cheers
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Old 04-02-2007, 11:11 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FalKeen
now for one on replacing the globes in the window switches??
In the technical resources area there is a thread on how to install colour led's into the lighting setup. I clicked on the link and it seems invalid.

http://fordforums.com.au/vbportal/mo...article&id=203
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Old 04-02-2007, 11:27 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FalKeen
now for one on replacing the globes in the window switches??
you can either buy a whole new switch from Ford for $19 (dont sell the globes alone) or do what i did, and convert them all to LED's

and if one still doesnt work... swap with one that works from another AU. the owner will never know :hihi::
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Old 04-02-2007, 11:28 AM   #22
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bugger if Henri can do it it must be piece of p!ss :monkes:
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Old 04-02-2007, 08:50 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FalKeen
bugger if Henri can do it it must be piece of p!ss :monkes:
what stealing? :the_finge
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Old 30-06-2007, 06:02 PM   #24
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Fantastic - thanks to this tute I fixed my passenger's door this morning in about 10 minutes... my wife is rapt... one of the easiest (and cheapest) car repairs I've ever done. (Certainly easier than repairing the fastglass in an XF Fairmont I used to own).

Thanks Racecraft! Thanks Fordforums! Thanks everyone!
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Old 01-03-2008, 07:00 PM   #25
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bumping this to the top, but thanks so much! cleaned and scraped the gunk off each of the terminals and little plates (getting the master driver side switches open was a bit interesting!) and now all my power windows work A1. i was so down when i was driving it home today (having just picked it up) and realising that my power window switches werent working properly. :(

sure it wont be the last time ford forums comes in handy
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Old 21-07-2009, 05:13 PM   #26
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Worked for me............

Thanks !!!!
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Old 26-09-2009, 04:34 PM   #27
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used this today. works a treat, nice thread
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Old 11-10-2009, 11:10 AM   #28
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Awesome Awesome Awesome............. Thanks for this
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Old 09-02-2011, 01:14 AM   #29
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Was at work when passenger window went intermittant and driver window stopped down. Was raining on / off all day. Lunch break followed instructions and had done in 15 minutes. The inside was full of dog hair, grease and dust and contacts covered black. All cleaned and now works fine. Pictures helped a lot. Thanks for info. Darren
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Old 05-07-2012, 09:03 AM   #30
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Default Glass dropped out

While trying to fix my au drivers window the glass dropped out of its guides and i am having a problem getting it back in does anyone have any secrets to this problem i dont want to break the glass.
Thanks guys.briggo
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