Advice on traction ...again.

[Stav]

No worries mate .I will take a double dose of heart tablets and just smash the wagon doubly hard towards the finish line!! I am sure the tyres are gonna be awesome.
Just making sure ive done everything I can to get tratcion right from all angles..

[brenx]

Unless you have atleast 300rwkw. I doubt you'll have a single traction issue with the MT radials. Naughts swapped from street tyres to MT street radials and went slower as the stall convertor was too small. It pulled the engine down.

Don't stress, you won't spin them. The suggestions are above are spot on if you are after more detailed info? -> http://www.mickeythompsontires.com specifies the type of burnout and pressures to run.

[Stav]

12 - 16 psi..nice thanks for that..I think I am ready.Fingers crossed it is cryogenically cold and everything is right.

[Walkinshaw]

Originally Posted by protd

no big burnouts on slicks thats just for public veiwing it actully makes the slicks greasy..roll through the water no brake 2nd gear stab the throttle shift 3rd as soon as u feel the slicks bit and beleieve me u'll feel it.. u'r ready to stage..

For some reason i don't think the Stingray wagon will toast them in 2nd whilst rolling and no break.....just a hunch.

get them sticky and go for broke stav. Running lean up top hey? Should be making some decent power now. 97mph+???

[1TUFFUTE]

Originally Posted by Walkinshaw

For some reason i don't think the Stingray wagon will toast them in 2nd whilst rolling and no break.....just a hunch.

get them sticky and go for broke stav. Running lean up top hey? Should be making some decent power now. 97mph+???

whats 97mph in klms ph any one know the conversion?? :

[northey]

Originally Posted by 1TUFFUTE

whats 97mph in klms ph any one know the conversion?? :

Multiply mph by 8; then divide answer by 5.
The equation is : 1 km = 0.625 mile = 5/8 mile.

[northey]

Big burnouts are for show only. Read the manufacturers instructions; try it out then experiment and work out what suits you best.

The old racers advice above is well worth listening to. Generally the tyres only need dampness to lessen potential damage to the drive train.

Try as above said leaving the line with the convertor loaded a bit. It won't "shock" the tyres like mashing the loud pedal down will. When the car leaves keep feeding throttle into it when you feel the tyres can handle it.
If you keep "over accelerating" and wheelspinning you need to use a bit more discipline when driving.
It takes time and experience to be good at this sport. It rarely happens overnight.

Have a look at the tyres straight after a run. You can learn to "read" them and they will tell you an awful lot about your run.
If they show a darker band down the centre of the tyre the pressure is probably too high. If they show bands around the outsides the pressure probably too low. If chatter marks are visible on the tyres (like if you wheelspun on corrugated road) it probably is axle tramping.

An important thing is to learn to drive consistently first and get a good feel for the car. Don't do one run with new tyres and change something. Make it leave the line the same way for a few runs and then see what difference a change makes.
Change tyre pressures one pound at a time. It makes a difference. When you get it working you'll only change them maybe 1/2 pound at a time.

and have fun.

northey

[1TUFFUTE]

Originally Posted by northey

Big burnouts are for show only. Read the manufacturers instructions; try it out then experiment and work out what suits you best.

The old racers advice above is well worth listening to. Generally the tyres only need dampness to lessen potential damage to the drive train.

Try as above said leaving the line with the convertor loaded a bit. It won't "shock" the tyres like mashing the loud pedal down will. When the car leaves keep feeding throttle into it when you feel the tyres can handle it.
If you keep "over accelerating" and wheelspinning you need to use a bit more discipline when driving.
It takes time and experience to be good at this sport. It rarely happens overnight.

Have a look at the tyres straight after a run. You can learn to "read" them and they will tell you an awful lot about your run.
If they show a darker band down the centre of the tyre the pressure is probably too high. If they show bands around the outsides the pressure probably too low. If chatter marks are visible on the tyres (like if you wheelspun on corrugated road) it probably is axle tramping.

An important thing is to learn to drive consistently first and get a good feel for the car. Don't do one run with new tyres and change something. Make it leave the line the same way for a few runs and then see what difference a change makes.
Change tyre pressures one pound at a time. It makes a difference. When you get it working you'll only change them maybe 1/2 pound at a time.

and have fun.

northey

Sounds like u no what ur talking about bro, so im gunna try that. _2:
Thanks for the conversion..i wrote it down this time ...

[northey]

it's a pleasure.

[Stav]

is there anything I can do to improve the suspension.Will different shocks make a difference to traction?

[brenx]

Originally Posted by useless

is there anything I can do to improve the suspension.Will different shocks make a difference to traction?

yes. If the front shocks lift fast and fall slow this assists weight transfer and traction. You'd need to swap to drag shocks 90/10's. Doing the times your doing it'd be a waste of $ though. An example : My XB runs factory suspension. Though thats going to change very soon.

[Stav]

I am not sure what is up with the wagon but it loves to spin the lsd even if I stomp it at 40 kays. It has gained extra power in the past week and its not launchable by hitting full throttle. Using the stallie is going to be a vain exercise ,I dont even try. I have a sneaking suspicion suspension and weight distribution of the au wagon may be an issue. I would have thought the wagon was heavier than a sedan in the back.

I was told that harder shocks would assist traction but not sure to believe the guy. I really appreciate everyones input thanks guys.

I must find a solution because it is becoming an issue for daily driving.Not that I dont like it ,its a barrel of laughs but I want to make sure the safety is upgraded to suit.

[brenx]

What brand tyre and what size do you run on the street?

[Stav]

dark horse 205/65/15. I had problems before with dunlop sp3000 somethings and pirellis.

[brenx]

Your not going to get traction with 205's I'm affraid. My stock EL spins 215's but you expect that with cheap tyres. Your drag tyres I hope are at least an 8" tyre unlike the 6" tyre you currently run. A drag tyre you won't spin. Heat the tyre up and go for a run and try and spin the drag tyre. The only time you'll spin a drag tyre on the street is when you hit debris (rocks or dirt).

Varying your tyre pressure in your street tyres will also assist. My EL runs 215/55/16's @ 35-40psi street use. Amount of wheelspin varies on road surface and tyre pressure.

[nugget378]

He has M/T et streets 235/60/15, just race it Stav you wont spin them.

[xdclevo]

Originally Posted by nugget378

He has M/T et streets 235/60/15, just race it Stav you wont spin them.

I doubt he would spin the MT streets at 40km/h on the street but. Fully street tyres on the other hand have to be driven a whole other way. I can roll along and spin mine at 80km/h, but if i don't want to i don't. Just race it and let us know.

[Tri Power 289]

Originally Posted by useless

dark horse 205/65/15. I had problems before with dunlop sp3000 somethings and pirellis.

Useless, my car ran its 14.38 on Dunlop SP3000a's with 32 psi and stock XR springs and Hot 460 ran 13s in his BF XR8 ute using them.
I normally run 38-40 on the street and like you, with low diff ratio and high stall, I get wheelspin if I nail it from idle, let alone stalling it up.

The best i ran when I tried a set of MT ET Street tyres with 18 psi and virtually identical tune and weather was 14.7.

If you're going to run them, start with reasonably high pressures, maybe 26-28 and then experiment from there. Otherwise they will drag you down.

Good luck. Can't wait to hear how you go.

[xr8ute]

Originally Posted by nugget378

just race it Stav you wont spin them

lol...that is the best advice.

Stav, the Dunlops you had were SP300's, probably 205/65/15... very different to the SP3000A's that alot of guys are pulling 1.9 second sixty footers on in their heavy BA/BF's.

If you want to step up to a better street tyre, I am keen to get rid of these BA 17" XR rims if you are interested. They are just sitting in my garage taking up space at the moment...

[Stav]

Originally Posted by Tri Power 289

Useless, my car ran its 14.38 on Dunlop SP3000a's with 32 psi and stock XR springs and Hot 460 ran 13s in his BF XR8 ute using them.
I normally run 38-40 on the street and like you, with low diff ratio and high stall, I get wheelspin if I nail it from idle, let alone stalling it up.

The best i ran when I tried a set of MT ET Street tyres with 18 psi and virtually identical tune and weather was 14.7.

If you're going to run them, start with reasonably high pressures, maybe 26-28 and then experiment from there. Otherwise they will drag you down.

Good luck. Can't wait to hear how you go.

Mate I am very fortunate to have contacted a hardcore drag racer and hes put me on the road to traction. I will know what pressures work before I get to the track. I just need a quiet road, my pressure gauge and a pump which I already have.
I have timed the car with gtech to 100 kays and subsequently estimate a flat 15 .I had massive wheelspin and no stalling up of the converter whatsoever when testing and I just stomped the accelerator and had 150kgsd of tools in the back!!.If I get the car to stall to 2700 rpm and get traction I think I will get back into the top ten for my cars class.Thanks for your good wishes.

Originally Posted by xr8ute

lol...that is the best advice.

Stav, the Dunlops you had were SP300's, probably 205/65/15... very different to the SP3000A's that alot of guys are pulling 1.9 second sixty footers on in their heavy BA/BF's.

If you want to step up to a better street tyre, I am keen to get rid of these BA 17" XR rims if you are interested. They are just sitting in my garage taking up space at the moment...

Gosh xr8ute !! You are right those werent the tyres I had. I missed a "0".

[ratter]

A public road will not offer the same grip levels as the track, so you could be wasting your time, just take the car to the strip and try it.

[Stav]

If you get an even black mark on the road then the tyre gets maximum contact to the ground.This is my goal

[1TUFFUTE]

Originally Posted by useless

If you get an even black mark on the road then the tyre gets maximum contact to the ground.This is my goal

Ive also heard that if you get scratches across the whole tyre evenly, on a rough road...then your tyre pressure is perfect, because its touching the ground well.

[Stav]

I can now officially say that dunlop sp3000a's dont offer a solution for my traction problems.However they look bloody marvelous. :hihi:

[1TUFFUTE]

Originally Posted by useless

I can now officially say that dunlop sp3000a's dont offer a solution for my traction problems.However they look bloody marvelous. :hihi:

I beleive you. I have more grip in a straight line with my new cheapy tyres than i did with the dunlop sp3000s. Different story around a corner tho :thebirds:

[Stav]

Originally Posted by nugget378

Stav,you wont spin the M/T's at the track in the wagon, just rip a big burnout first up,They worked better for me when I bushfired em. Stop worrying about it they'll go well.

They did really well mate..thank you.Youre a leventi !!!! :sm_headba

[hot460]

Originally Posted by useless

They did really well mate..thank you.Youre a leventi !!!! :sm_headba

So I guess you ran the car on wed....... How did you go?

[Stav]

14.77 92.71 mph
http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=56339

Only got one run.The sp3000a's will be used only for burnout comps if I ever go again.

Nugget is called nugget for a reason the mt did the job