2002 BA 5.4L 3V Ford fairmont ghia

martynogutsnoglory · 13-02-2024, 12:51 PM

Hello everyone,

I'm seeking some assistance with a problem I've encountered after replacing the throttle body (TB) on my vehicle. I recently swapped out the old throttle body with a new Ford replacement throttle body that I had purchased some time ago. Initially, the original throttle body was working fine, and I verified that the new throttle body functions properly.

However, after installing the new throttle body, the car doesn't seem to recognize that it's connected. The engine starts and runs rough, and there's no communication between the fuel pedal and the throttle body. To troubleshoot, I reinstalled the old throttle body, but unfortunately, I'm experiencing the same problem.

It's worth mentioning that the car was working well before I made the switch to the new throttle body. As a next step, I performed a spark test on all the spark plugs, and they're all sparking properly.

I'm wondering if there could be a fuse related to the throttle body that may have blown or if there's another issue that could be causing this problem. Any insights or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you in advance for your help!

**mad2** · 13-02-2024, 01:59 PM

did you disconnect the battery before changing over?.

**aussiblue** · 13-02-2024, 02:26 PM

... and clear any existing fault codes and recalibrate the pedal i.e fully depress and then release the accelerator pedal with ignition on engine off then clear all codes before starting the engine. . Also see this thread: https://fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11500109

T3rminator · 13-02-2024, 10:50 PM

My money is on that you didn't plug the actuator connector back. Go check.

There are two connections you need to plug back, both at opposite ends of each other. One is the TPS, the other is the Actuator. You need to make sure you hear a "click" on the actuator connector, needs a pretty firm push to get it to click. Its in an awkward spot for the 3v.

Otherwise, throw your ODB2 reader in there and it will most likely show a DTC and you can go from there.

martynogutsnoglory · 14-02-2024, 01:23 AM

Yep. First thing tomorrow i will check that connection. Very good. I will round back at you tomorrow. Cheers.

martynogutsnoglory · 14-02-2024, 10:23 PM

Yep. I missed that one. It must of broke when i removed the TB. I fitted a new connector today. Running like a champ. Cheers.

T3rminator · 14-02-2024, 10:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by martynogutsnoglory

Yep. I missed that one. It must of broke when i removed the TB. I fitted a new connector today. Running like a champ. Cheers.

Done it a few times myself, thats how I knew that was it :P Its easier to connect it first then bolt down the TB on the 3v, but you probably won't need to worry about it again now for a while.

I have even once connected it back, whilst forgetting I had the battery connected....and the key left at ON. It was making funny noises! No damage done luckily.

martynogutsnoglory · 06-03-2024, 11:12 PM

Hi Its Marty again. You help me out with the bad TB connector on 5.4l. Its been running as good as ever until the other day I was idling at the drive up and felt it miss and then badly missed then i got it home. next morning it started up and ran good again for about the time it took it to get to operating temp. Then missed no power and ran rough. No engine check light. Unlikely to be connected to TB connector? Its brand new and i did a proper job installing the new one. Plan is to switch to the original TB in the morning and see if that has anything to do with it. It does run normal when its cold. I did run a scan reader. B1791 Control unit BCM autolamp sensor input circuit open? Sounds like nothing to do with the problem. Any ideas? thank. Marty

T3rminator · 07-03-2024, 11:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by martynogutsnoglory

Hi Its Marty again. You help me out with the bad TB connector on 5.4l. Its been running as good as ever until the other day I was idling at the drive up and felt it miss and then badly missed then i got it home. next morning it started up and ran good again for about the time it took it to get to operating temp. Then missed no power and ran rough. No engine check light. Unlikely to be connected to TB connector? Its brand new and i did a proper job installing the new one. Plan is to switch to the original TB in the morning and see if that has anything to do with it. It does run normal when its cold. I did run a scan reader. B1791 Control unit BCM autolamp sensor input circuit open? Sounds like nothing to do with the problem. Any ideas? thank. Marty

Hmm doesn't sound like a connector issue. Get something like TorquePro or Forscan and monitor the o2 and fuel status. See if its going into Open Loop when it starts to miss and go rough.

Hows the fuel consumption?

Complete wild stab in the dark, could be vac leak on the PCV hose. The nozzle that goes into the back of the manifold are known to go brittle and leak. When mine had a leak, it would only play up when the engine got hot, not when it was cold. It would miss badly under load.

B codes typically don't affect your engine running I don't think.

martynogutsnoglory · 07-03-2024, 02:58 PM

Thanks for the help. I will check the vacuum hoses when i switch out the TB. See how it goes. If it still a problem. Where is the o2 sensor located? Maybe I'll put in a new one. Weekend Ill figure out how to use ford scan. Thanks again.

T3rminator · 07-03-2024, 03:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by martynogutsnoglory

Thanks for the help. I will check the vacuum hoses when i switch out the TB. See how it goes. If it still a problem. Where is the o2 sensor located? Maybe I'll put in a new one. Weekend Ill figure out how to use ford scan. Thanks again.

o2 sensors are screwed into your headers. If you still have factory headers, they can be hard to access from what I've been told. I'd recommend getting a proper o2 sensor removal tool.

Usually when your o2 fails, the car will go into open loop, and the engine should idle and drive ok. So what happens is, the car will miss and stumble if the o2 is giving it bad reading, then you'll notice the engine will idle fine again as soon as it switches back into open loop. Except, will be running very rich and fuel consumption will go up.

martynogutsnoglory · 07-03-2024, 10:07 PM

switch the old TB back and it ran good until it warmed up. same. runs normal until its hits a certain temp. then no power like it should have power. It limps around okay. Not running rough. idling okay. Seems like its firing on all it cylinders. It's not fuel because cold it's got full power. Probably not spark because it makes full power when cold. Obviously. Lack of fuel or spark or both happens. Not sure its o2. could be. It makes power when cold. Maybe not o2. Maybe it's a temp sensor? Where that located? I'll go buy both and switch them out. You said i need a special tool for the o2. If that's way expensive I'll leave it for the shop to do. Appreciate the help. thanks.

T3rminator · 07-03-2024, 10:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by martynogutsnoglory

switch the old TB back and it ran good until it warmed up. same. runs normal until its hits a certain temp. then no power like it should have power. It limps around okay. Not running rough. idling okay. Seems like its firing on all it cylinders. It's not fuel because cold it's got full power. Probably not spark because it makes full power when cold. Obviously. Lack of fuel or spark or both happens. Not sure its o2. could be. It makes power when cold. Maybe not o2. Maybe it's a temp sensor? Where that located? I'll go buy both and switch them out. You said i need a special tool for the o2. If that's way expensive I'll leave it for the shop to do. Appreciate the help. thanks.

o2 socket is not expensive. Get the short version, they feel stronger.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/334949615449

Your issue doesn't sound like o2 though.

Not running rough, idling ok, but no power? Seems odd. Is it auto or manual? Don't the auto transmissions have some sort of limp mode if something is triggered?

The coolant temp sensor is located inside the tunnel of the intake manifold. You need to remove the alternator to get to it. Its on the driver's side.

martynogutsnoglory · 07-03-2024, 11:15 PM

Its auto. Don't know about the limp mode. I think I need to spend the time and switch out the temp sensor. I put a new alternator and belt on couple years ago. Hardest part was figuring out how the belt goes back on. Ill take a photo this time. I'll keep you posted. thanks.

T3rminator · 08-03-2024, 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by martynogutsnoglory

Its auto. Don't know about the limp mode. I think I need to spend the time and switch out the temp sensor. I put a new alternator and belt on couple years ago. Hardest part was figuring out how the belt goes back on. Ill take a photo this time. I'll keep you posted. thanks.