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Old 05-01-2005, 02:13 PM   #1
Casper
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Default Common Problems with the AU??

Based on some suggestions from Bucknaked, this thread is to share your experiances with problems that have occured with your AU.
Be them common (like the shock mounts on the IRS models) or not so common (a dead MAP sensor making the car run rich and lose power), share it all here

The problem, the solution, the cost.


This is not a "I have a problem, need advice" thread, it is purely for those that have had a problem, found the cause and got it sorted. These experiances may save us all a lot of time, headaches and money.
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Old 05-01-2005, 02:39 PM   #2
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Item:- Front Power Windows
Problems: Slow to go up, Going up slighty sideways and/or tilting
Cause:- THe window slides inside the rubber and after time the rubber section starts to close and binds on the window glass
Fixes:- Always keep the rubbers on the inside of the door frames slighty lubed with silicon spray or graphite powder. A bit of this should be added to your detailing pack and everytime you give it a polish apply alittle to stop the window binding up
Cost:- $10/$15 for a large can of silicon spray

Item:- Front Window switches
Problems:- window won't go up or down occasionally, or switch will not reset itself to neutral.
Cause:- The the switch somehow fill with ash, dust or lint. Eventually reducing the contact points
Solutions: With a large flatblade s/driver pop the whole insert from the door, unplug then tap out the switch.
Then using a small flatblade remove the switch button from the housing, tip it upside down and wait for the contact strip and the two small acuator spacers to fall out.
Grab some cotton buds (cue-tips i think they are called) and poke around getting all the loose dirt out of the housing. Give the contact strip a wipe and light scuff with some paper, the head of the small s/driver will do, a drop of dry lube if you have it then reassemble.
Cost:- $2 for 100 cue tips and $5 for some dry lube
(maybe a photo tutorial would be better)
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Old 05-01-2005, 04:00 PM   #3
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I've got a 2000 series 2 S-pack. Things that have gone wrong for me in the 3 years i've owned it.

- O-ring seal leaking on rear of water pump @ 40000KM (fixed under warranty)
- Radiator tanks cracked @ 40000KM (fixed under warranty)
- Transducer (speed sensor) shat itself @ 55000KM (car out of warranty)
- Brake discs warpped @ 60000KM (replaced with slotted rotors) $200 to 300
- Transmisson rear oil seal replaced @ 65000KM $60
- Steering rack recall
- IRS shock top mounts replaced @ 76000KM (i'm writing a letter of complaint to ford about this one, will let you know how i go. A suggestion for other AU owners if your top mounts need replacing, don't go near ford!!! They quoted me $420, i got it done for $260)
- Today i got the drive pinion oil seal on the diff replaced @ 77000KM $110

I'm damn happy with my AU,a few of these things shouldn't have happend at low k's, though there is no reason to cry over spilled milk. I'm getting a BA company car this month but i'm keeping the AU cause i love it ....AU's Rock! :sm_headba

Cheers,
Adrian.
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Old 06-01-2005, 01:08 AM   #4
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Dash lights dull - fitted blue LEDs.
AU1 brakes ineffective - fitted DBA slotted rotors.
AU2 I6 hesitated badly at WOT - replace leads #3 & #6.
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Old 06-01-2005, 01:34 AM   #5
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Porblem: Cluster Gears on T5
Cost: $1200 depending on who you know or where u get it fixed

When this happened in my car I called all the Ford wreckers in the Melb metro area and they all told me this was a common problem. Most of them had a gearboxs but they all had broken clusters in them 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears.
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Old 06-01-2005, 11:42 PM   #6
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T3 TE50 auto
Petrol surge at 4500+RPM and 1/3, or less tank of petrol.
Replaced sock and rotated fuel pump 180 degrees, fixed under warranty.
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Old 07-01-2005, 12:11 AM   #7
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Common problem. Climate control display unit with missing segments on the numbers being displayed. All AU Fairmont's, Fairmont Ghia's, Fairlane's, LTD's, TE50's (series I and II), TS50's and TL50's are effected. Don't know exactly what causes this, but have heard it's due to heat breaking down the contact points on the PCB at the back of the unit. Sorry folks, I only know of the problem, and have no solution, or idea on how/cost to fix it.

I bought a rebuilt unit (with lifetime warranty) for my TS50 and it's in 100% working order. Noticed some melted plastic type material on the back where the "strip"(?) of wire that comes off the LCD screen, meets the PCB on the back.

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Old 07-01-2005, 01:48 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AUGZMK
Common problem. Climate control display unit with missing segments on the numbers being displayed. All AU Fairmont's, Fairmont Ghia's, Fairlane's, LTD's, TE50's (series I and II), TS50's and TL50's are effected. Don't know exactly what causes this, but have heard it's due to heat breaking down the contact points on the PCB at the back of the unit. Sorry folks, I only know of the problem, and have no solution, or idea on how/cost to fix it.

I bought a rebuilt unit (with lifetime warranty) for my TS50 and it's in 100% working order. Noticed some melted plastic type material on the back where the "strip"(?) of wire that comes off the LCD screen, meets the PCB on the back.
There is a guy on ebay, that puts his service up for sale to fix the screens. And i've heard of quite a few that have done this and the screens have been fixed with no problem.

Here is the add: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....515112631&rd=1

Or his actual site: http://www.geocities.com/liquidxtal/index.html

He is in Victoria for those who wanna know.
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Old 07-01-2005, 03:26 PM   #9
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Brake switch (today)
Front power window button
Bad idle problem (fixed)
Rear window (stuffed - can't use it)
Leaking washer bottle
Fuel pump (changed) and just tooooo many other small things. Not bad for a car I've only had for just under 5 months and I suspect there's more to come!!
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Old 07-01-2005, 03:39 PM   #10
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I had a ripper one day! the left window wouldn't work it was stuck down, so I rang FTe service and the guy said, "get this" press the window switch up & down 31 yes 31 times, that will fix it!!! yeah right :tosser1: anyway I did this, and bugger me on the 31st time the bloody thing worked!! : Beats the hell outta me. I dont know if anyone else has had this..
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Old 07-01-2005, 04:08 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbutler
I had a ripper one day! the left window wouldn't work it was stuck down, so I rang FTe service and the guy said, "get this" press the window switch up & down 31 yes 31 times, that will fix it!!! yeah right :tosser1: anyway I did this, and bugger me on the 31st time the bloody thing worked!! : Beats the hell outta me. I dont know if anyone else has had this..
You have noooooo idea how curious I am now. Do I risk it? Hrmmmm. Coz that's the problem with mine. Powers down ok but won't go back up. Dammm what to do

Oh yeah and the Volume Up button on my steering wheel works when "it" wants to and not when I want it to.
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Old 07-01-2005, 05:51 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AU_Fairmont -S-
You have noooooo idea how curious I am now. Do I risk it? Hrmmmm. Coz that's the problem with mine. Powers down ok but won't go back up. Dammm what to do

Oh yeah and the Volume Up button on my steering wheel works when "it" wants to and not when I want it to.
Give it a go !! It fixed mine, remember 31 times. :

The volume control? that will be the rings in the steering column, you have to take the steering wheel off, clean & lube the rings, that should fix it......
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Old 07-01-2005, 06:10 PM   #13
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All au 6 stack in dash head units
Completely pause quick fix keep pressing random buttoms turn on and off.
If under warranty get it replaced with another on that WILL do the same thing 6 months later.
If out of warranty buy a decent head unit.
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Old 07-01-2005, 06:53 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sylox
All au 6 stack in dash head units
Completely pause quick fix keep pressing random buttoms turn on and off.
If under warranty get it replaced with another on that WILL do the same thing 6 months later.
If out of warranty buy a decent head unit.
Why is there so many complaints about the AUII/III 6 stack headunits?? Never having owned/operated one myself, I have heard lots of negative responses from users, repairers and wreckers. Something about the shuffle mechanism is poorly designed and prone to stuff up, and once they do, will continue to give trouble to no end, and that's only one of many problems apparently??
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Old 07-01-2005, 07:56 PM   #15
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Ii have the optional premium sound unit in mine and "Touches wood 100 times" mine has never packed up.

Yes on occasions the cd doesn't play but i let it do it's thing and spit the cd,
then i press reload and everythings fine. If a cd fails to play, i skip cd's until theres one that plays and then go back to the one. So far it's worked and i've had no jams at all. I really love the 6 stacker. I've had the music skip on the cd while playing and the problem was cured after i bought a cd lense cleaner.
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Old 07-01-2005, 08:02 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AUGZMK
Why is there so many complaints about the AUII/III 6 stack headunits?? Never having owned/operated one myself, I have heard lots of negative responses from users, repairers and wreckers. Something about the shuffle mechanism is poorly designed and prone to stuff up, and once they do, will continue to give trouble to no end, and that's only one of many problems apparently??
While i agree that there are a number of faulty units around, i think the other issue is people panicing when the cd fails to play or when the system spits the cd out for no reason during shuffle. I've heard of guys at my work with company fairmonts simply jamming the cd in without pressing the reload, once you do that kiss goodbye to the shuffle mechanism.

I don't deny the 6 stacker mechanism is fragile and due to bumps the cd ccan unseat abit in it's holders.
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Old 07-01-2005, 08:06 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbutler
I had a ripper one day! the left window wouldn't work it was stuck down, so I rang FTe service and the guy said, "get this" press the window switch up & down 31 yes 31 times, that will fix it!!! yeah right :tosser1: anyway I did this, and bugger me on the 31st time the bloody thing worked!! : Beats the hell outta me. I dont know if anyone else has had this..
Yes

several times, need to get some silicon spray lube, take trim off and lube up the window essembly

Mind you, DO NOT bash switch 31 times, just gentile pushes!!!!
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Old 07-01-2005, 08:23 PM   #18
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The problem I have with my AU is that it is a Wagon for work.It has a cargo barrier in it.A few times I can be getting materials out for work and leave the keys inside after closing the tailgate. I always leave the doors unlocked when this happens(luckily) and reach for my electronic boot release but nothing happens. The AU boot release on my wagon powers down after several minutes and I cannot open it from the switch.

I hope that the guy who designed that feature is reading this because I have one message for you mate...YOUR MADE OF PLASTIC!!!!!
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Old 07-01-2005, 09:09 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by useless
The AU boot release on my wagon powers down after several minutes and I cannot open it from the switch.

I hope that the guy who designed that feature is reading this because I have one message for you mate...YOUR MADE OF PLASTIC!!!!!
This is there so if someone breaks into your car they have to pull the back seat down and pull the boot release to get stuff out of your car.


Oh and I find that it is way too easy for someone to break in by - ****Edited***** - two times in the last few months... Grrr

Last edited by Casper; 26-10-2007 at 10:03 PM. Reason: Lets not advertise how to do it on a public Forum!!!!!
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Old 07-01-2005, 09:30 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by agentofchange
Oh and I find that it is way too easy for someone to break in by - ****Edited***** - two times in the last few months... Grrr
Sorry Casper, I'm only new here - I didn't mean to do anything wrong (did I break a forum rule?)

I still feel it was a fair call to describe the problem as I did - "Method x" is very a common problem for the AU series, and relates directly to the thread.

I was at Ferntree Gully Ford today and the service guy I spoke to said they have someone in every day after being broken into via "method x". I think if someone was looking to break into a car they would already know about the method I described.

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Old 07-01-2005, 09:34 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agentofchange
Sorry Casper, I'm only new here - I didn't mean to do anything wrong (did I break a forum rule?)

I still feel it was a fair call to describe the problem as I did - "Method x" is very a common problem for the AU series, and relates directly to the thread.

I was at Ferntree Gully Ford today and the service guy I spoke to said they have someone in every day after being broken into via "method x". I think if someone was looking to break into a car they would already know about the method I described.

-- Agent
no, not a drama and you are right, it is a VERY common problem. I'd just not give any ideas to lurkers etc.
If its not mentioned, it may stop just one theft.

I have a rather intrusive alarm on mine specifically to deal with this sort of method however I'd rather not have to pay for the repairs.

Your ok, no dramas here, just want to keep that little issue away from the spotlight if possible.
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Old 07-01-2005, 09:55 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agentofchange
This is there so if someone breaks into your car they have to pull the back seat down and pull the boot release to get stuff out of your car.


Oh and I find that it is way too easy for someone to break in by - ****Edited***** - two times in the last few months... Grrr
Thats fine because I know how to overide the boot release mechanism..but it is a bit of an obstacle when its raining and I need 7 minutes for overide procedure,which only I know...lucky Im one of the good guys..
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Old 09-01-2005, 12:54 PM   #23
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Probably not an AU only fault, but one us AU owners may experience. Anyway I shall begin.

I started noticing the XR pulling to the left, only 1,000 k's after getting a wheel alignment done. Driving the car off from cold, it felt like a flat spot had developed on one of the tyres. Coming back from the local Carlovers after a good gurney, I detailed my wheels and noticed that a valve cap had come off the right front wheel. Compared with the front left, there was a noticeable decrease in tyre pressure.

Remedy:

Cannibalised the valve cap off the spare, off to the local Bob Janes to get a couple of valve caps and had the pressures checked whilst I was there.

Outcome:

Handling/Steering felt back to normal, saved myself from premature tyre wear and or another wheel alignment.
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Old 09-01-2005, 01:09 PM   #24
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PROBLEM:
On AU Wagons I am led to believe that it is common for where the boot struts meet the frame of the car for a little bit of rust to form there. I know first hand as my car had rust there.

REMEDY:
Call the 13 something phone number and it will be fixed free under warrenty. The warrenty is for 5 years on corrosion. Even if you have a 3 year warrenty.
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Old 09-01-2005, 01:52 PM   #25
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All au's have this rust problem sedans / utes / wagons even the BA's suffer from it.
as none of the brackets had been painted behind them and are just left as raw metal. Thats where every pannel on the car mounts up you will find varying degree's of rust.
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Old 09-01-2005, 02:20 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbutler
I had a ripper one day! the left window wouldn't work it was stuck down, so I rang FTe service and the guy said, "get this" press the window switch up & down 31 yes 31 times, that will fix it!!! yeah right :tosser1: anyway I did this, and bugger me on the 31st time the bloody thing worked!! : Beats the hell outta me. I dont know if anyone else has had this..
Are you serious? What happens if you lose count. Is there a 31 button reset sequence?
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Old 09-01-2005, 05:58 PM   #27
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So far I've had a dream run with AU's.
The only blemish is the power steering rack going at 115,000 on the forte
It's best to spray lanolin or other rust preventative into those rear corners of the AU sedan boot.

Windows slow to go up
The silicone spray was a good suggestion. The rubbers that the windows make contact with, need to be well cared for
Over time with no care, the AU rubbers dry up and go brown which causes sticky windows and if not treated, new rubbers being required

Solution - clearkote vanilla moose, autoglym bodyshop 07B (looks like strawberry jam) and then baby oil and wolfgang black diamond tire gel.
Result - jet black rubbers that are quite smooth and makes it easier for power windows to move up and down

I've had AU's longer than anyone in the country and found ways to alleviate these little problems
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Old 09-01-2005, 06:38 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVR73
I've had AU's longer than anyone in the country and found ways to alleviate these little problems
Ooookaay.. so you're the one who bought that very first AU ever produced aye?.. _

Tell us more about all the problems with the AU please? Would be great to hear from someone who's owned AU's longer than anyone else in the country.
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Old 10-01-2005, 08:47 PM   #29
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Talking AU Owners- What problems have you had?

Hi guys, just curious as to what problems you've had with your AU's.

Our families AU is an AUII forte sedan, auto, 10/00 build with 78,000km on the clock. As far as i can recall we haven't had many problems with it. In fact the only problems we've had with it were:

*Slight rough idle- Fixed
*Oil leak on steering rack- Fixed
*Electric window slow- Fixed, just needed a bit of lube
*sunglasses holder lining come out- The car is out of warranty and we haven't bothered getting it fixed because we don't use it..

Thats a pretty short list. It annoys me when people bag out the AU when in reality they are mechanically excellent
Just for comparison, my dad drives a ba xr6t and we've had 18 problems with it in 13 months.. with the AU we've had 4 minor problems with it in nearly 4 1/2 years.

Glenn for AU's :sm_headba

EDIT: It has also been back for the accelorator cable recall (?), and the recent recall involving the steering on all AU's from 98-01

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Old 10-01-2005, 08:56 PM   #30
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But as you said it is an AUII, and being the 2nd of a particular model you would expect most, if not all of the problems to have been ironed out in the first model. The BA being the first in the model is going to have some slip ups.

I whole heartedly agree that the AU is mechanically really good. I use one for MotorKhana events...
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